J Brodigan wrote:
I had 3 of the rub rail inserts under my fuel tank too. Four Winns must of been using them as spacers to keep some bilge space open between the gas tank and the hull. Any ideas on how you are going to reinstall the tank back into the well while keeping that space open under the tank?
My plan is to 4200 them to the painted bilge and reuse them. I figure if they have worked for 20 years and they are not dry rotten, fuqc it.
one night this past week i spent 20 min scrubbing and cleaning the tank.
Well Sunday i got a nice little 3.5 hour window of productive work done in-between storms.
Man hours total 13.83 hours so far.
Sunday 11/16/2014
Straight cut the last of the old deck out to mate with the new deck.
removed the stern bulkhead. Man it was rotten from the glass line down. if they had fully glassed the wood maybe it would have lasted 30 years. Well i know that the work that i am doing will insure another 20+ years of life to this hull.
time for grinding. Lets make some dust.
I was covered head to toe by the end of the work time. A mix of glass dust and saw dust.
Well come to find out that they used seam to joint multiple pieces of ply as the stringers and the middle section on the PORT side needed to be gone. So i cut it out and made a new insert. In addition I finished the "inner stringer supports" these will be glassed to the stringers and add strength obviously. But mainly they are going to be notched at the tops for a lip for the under the locker hatch support to mate with and distribute load to the stringers from the hatch. This will make walking on the hatch not separate the recess support of the hatch inlay separate from the floor. Probably over kill but i know it will be solid and that is the entire point. I will be adding foam to that one air pace on the port side that was open from the factory.
I got the bulkheads made. the stern one did not turn out perfect on the port side and will be recut for a better fit. I could goop a nice thick helping of thickened resin to fill that void but i would rather just cut a new board and be good to go. On the left (starboard side) you can see the cut down int he inner support, that is the passage way under deck for the fuel fill and vent lines to route. On the port side (aka right in this pic) a hole will be drilled for the fuel feed from the pickup. I am making the rear bulkhead 2 layers of 3/4 for 1.5" thick for plenty of strength and support of the fuel hatch. The fuel hatch will be reseessed into the floor and will have 8 or so SS screw securing it to the support along with 4200 calk in the screws and a bead in the seam of the hatch. I will not need access to the tank often BUT in the even that i do. I will have the ability to take a razor to the seam and pull the hatch. this was the best solution for dry and accessible that i could come up with.
I am 80% done with the wood for the floor. The floor supports prove to take much longer to get the countour of the hull exact than expected. double rear bulkhead, under support of the hatches, and cut the locker hatch hole. Then i move onto the rear bench box which will be a breeze. Then the rear hatch. I am happy eight the man hours and the work that is done this so far. I learned a few tricks for the floor stringer contours that would make life faster int he future.
I am sure i spent 15 minutes sunday combined looking for the damn tape measure that was either not he saw horses or the boat, sometimes it was clipped to the back of overalls but kept falling off was the issue. Also climbing in and out of the boat has brought e to want to make a 3 step small stair case for the stern which i feel would help me get in and out of the boat with no hands. As it is now i have to lift and set whatever into the boat then climb in. A small set of steps would eliminate this.
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Not Penny's Boat
1993 190 Horizon 5.0L EFI http://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=111361977 14' CMF Skiff SOLD
2015 Emotion Stealth Angler 11
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