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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 1:58 pm 
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Goldfish

Joined: Sat May 10, 2014 3:07 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Knoxville, Tn
One advantage of a cruiser is that one should be able to use it year round – depending on your climate. But where I’m at we often boat on those nice warm weekends. For example last weekend it was in the 60’s and a nice cruise or cocktail cruise is nice. This is my first year with my Vista 338. I love the total canvas as it’s mostly clear. But, when I even try to cocktail cruise I set off every CO monitor on the boat . . . scared me so I headed back. On my Sea Ray as long as I kept all of the canvas up it was not a problem, on this boat it seems to really have the station wagon effect very bad. With all of the plastic up I’m not even sure how the CO is getting back into the boat – any ideas?

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 2:04 pm 
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Not sure how the CO gets in but I never drive with the canvas fully closed for this reason. I at lease keep a small window open in the front and almost always leave the door open a little in the back so the wind passes through.
Which CO detector is going off? Do you have one in the cockpit or is it one in the cabin? If it is in the cabin it could be for another reason and having the canvas up just keep the air trapped.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 4:39 pm 
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Location: West Palm Beach, FL
You could also take a passive CO detector card for only $10-$15 to help make a decision about how serious the CO level is. Obviously, your electronic detector is superior as it can alert you or wake up sleeping occupants, but these cards could help determine if the electronic detector is overly sensitive.

http://www.pilotmall.com/product/Quantum-Eye-CO-Detector/co-detectors?r=googlefeed&gclid=CPuA0PCqgMMCFRBo7Aod5BkAuQ
or
http://www.amazon.com/Quantum-Eye-Carbon-Monoxide-Detector/dp/B003VSAETK/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1420580093&sr=1-1

For anyone interested, here is a really good aviation article about the medical factors of CO exposure and recovery time, as well as CO Detectors. Has a lot of information about false alarm issues, and critiques of various CO sensors. Very thorough:
http://www.avweb.com/news/aeromed/186016-1.html?redirected=1

Ray

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 5:21 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 12:31 pm
Posts: 2108
Location: Chester, UK
The 12V CO monitors fitted to FW boats are incredibly sensitive to voltage drop; I threw mine away and fitted reputable stand alone ones instead ( with a 5 year battery life). With something that vitally important, you have to be able to trust them.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 9:04 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2014 6:52 pm
Posts: 326
Location: Vancouver, WA
CO monitors are notoriously finicky when it comes to dust. They usually last about 5 years at best in a house before they go off randomly. In a boat? 3 years is pushing it. A home one can be bought for <$10 now, put it right next to the old one. If both sound, there's a problem. If the old one goes off, and the new one does not - then it's past it's lifespan. you can also blow it out with a can of compressed air and see if that brings it back to life... but chances are it's a goner.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 10:51 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 31, 2010 3:23 pm
Posts: 715
Location: Michigan
Had this happen to me this past summer. Scared the crap out of me because we were quite a few miles out into Lake Michigan when it happened and at first I thought it was an engine alarm. It was only the aft cabin sensor that alarmed. If I crack the side windows in the camper top a little it doesn't happen.
I also had one go off in the middle of the night because of a low battery. Not fun at all. :(
I picked up a digital detector from HD that I keep on the boat now so I can be sure when they go off if it is a false alarm or not.

I'm hoping it is warmer next summer so I don't have to cruise the all the canvas up!.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 4:52 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
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Location: Long Island NY
rpengr wrote:
You could also take a passive CO detector card for only $10-$15 to help make a decision about how serious the CO level is. Obviously, your electronic detector is superior as it can alert you or wake up sleeping occupants, but these cards could help determine if the electronic detector is overly sensitive.

http://www.pilotmall.com/product/Quantum-Eye-CO-Detector/co-detectors?r=googlefeed&gclid=CPuA0PCqgMMCFRBo7Aod5BkAuQ
or
http://www.amazon.com/Quantum-Eye-Carbon-Monoxide-Detector/dp/B003VSAETK/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1420580093&sr=1-1

For anyone interested, here is a really good aviation article about the medical factors of CO exposure and recovery time, as well as CO Detectors. Has a lot of information about false alarm issues, and critiques of various CO sensors. Very thorough:
http://www.avweb.com/news/aeromed/186016-1.html?redirected=1

Ray


Ray that was VERY interesting, I had read about this a bit in the old days (mid 70s) because I had air cooled VWs back then. I had to replace the heater box (similar to aircraft, forced hot air heating as part of the exhaust system) because it had rotted a bit and to leave it as it was was dangerous. I recall reading that the similar Corvair had similar problems, leaks in the exhaust manifolds could result in CO in the passenger compartment.

Back when we had Sandy, I had a portable gen set running under my back porch for about 2 weeks. The only way I could be comfortable with this was to get it as far away from the doors and windows of the basement and I hooked up a CO detector and put it right by the basement door to be on the safe side. No alarms, but you can't be too careful.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 3:53 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:15 am
Posts: 456
Location: Lake Ontario
I've installed a battery operated CO detector directly under my steering wheel - it has a digital readout (from Home Depot). It's great because you can watch the CO levels go up, and then open windows and watch it start to decrease. Gave us great peace of mind when we spent hours basically at idle in the Trent this past summer. It's amazing how depending on the the wind, even opening the front vent and back window isn't enough to drop levels - often we had to crack open the front side windows a touch as well.

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