www.iFourWinns.com

Some of you have seen my post concerning the incorrect 12 volt wire size not being sufficient to keep the frig running on 12 volt power on our 2006 288. We purchased this boat last spring from an owner that probably didn't catch the fact that this was the case, I guess?????I have learned from Four Winns that some units were equipped with an insufficient wire size ( appears to be 14 AWG) and so now I am faced with running a 10 AWG wire from the cabin panel frig breaker to the refrigerator which is on the opposite of the boat to avoid loosing voltage to keep it running. According to Four Winns, this is not a recall issue (Hmmmmm) but they did state that others have corrected this by running a bigger wire. I am hoping that someone out there that has had this same issue and can guide me on the best route to take as I'm sure this wire was run prior to the interior being installed. The tech at Four Winns thought perhaps it runs under the headliner which will make it very difficult to replace, so I'm looking for an alternate route. I would appreciate any help as this will save me a ton of time. Thanks for your consideration.

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"One Moor Time" 2006 288 Vista
"Kalin II" 1995 258 Vista
"Kalin" 1985 Four Winns 215 Santara

I ran new wires under the floor. Make sure the wires are secure and protected against chafing.

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2004 Vista 298
Twin 5.7L Volvo Penta GXi-E

Remove the circuit panel. Tie a piece of string to the existing wire and see if it will pull through. If so tape your new wire to the string and pull. If it doesn't come through remove the microwave and you can get below to run wire.

Or use the existing wire to trigger a relay, with the heavier duty cables ( +ve and -ve) run up the same side of the boat as the fridge from a fuse/breaker at the battery.

More things to break lol

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

Isn't that the way it's supposed to be with boats and be part of the "fun" ?

Why a relay? Is that what your fridge calls for?

If it's difficult, as appears the case, to feed heavier wires across the cabin to the fridge from the existing breaker/ switch, then the existing wiring/ switch can still be used to switch the supply on and off, connected to the coil terminals of a relay. Assuming , that is, it's possible to get the heavier wires to the relay as well. The relay can have the contacts rated at 30 or 40A as needed.

I still don't understand. You only need 12 or 10 gauge wire depending on the run. Relay or not.

In the original post it was stated the wiring looked like 14 AWG. Too small apparently. If getting 10, 12 , 8 AWG to the fridge via the original routing is not possible, then it has to get there another way. Using a relay means the original 14 AWG and associated switches etc can still be used to control it, but the power to run it comes from elsewhere via heavier cables.

The load side of the relay would come directly from the battery, saves time fishing wire from the back to the front then back to the fridge!!

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2001 328 Vista "Nauta Dream 2"
AB Inflatable 10AL "Little Dreamer"
2000 248 Vista
1997 225 Sundowner


Mike

I still don't get it? Please realize to tha I am at work, so pic do not come though.

My point is, no matter what you are running heaver cables to the fridge. Fuse it at the battery & run the wires up. Its simple! Me, I would mount a OFF, ON switch by the fridge. If I did use one, it would be a soild state relay..

I purchased a 2007 278 Vista in Aug 2014. I had the same problem where the fridge would not run on battery power (mine was also wired backwards at the power input and did not run on A/C either but that is a different story, and yes I knew the fridge was not working when I purchased).
I ran new 10/2 AWG Marine wire (got a 25' roll from genuinedealz on ebay) from the main power switch at the back of the boat to the fridge. It was fairly easy as everything was on the fridge side.
On mine, I was able to pull the fridge out and fish the wire back behind the sink storage to the trash can opening. Then straight on back behind the A/C and pulled down the upholstery in the aft-cabin on the port wall and fished it on thru to the engine compartment.
Then pulled the main switch panel out and fished the wire up to it.
Installed a 10 AWG fuze holder and a new 10 amp fuze.

Fridge now works great on both A/C and D/C.

Purpose in doing it this way was:
1. A lot easier run than over to the helm and into the existing fuze block position.
2. Shorter run (cheaper price for 25' vs 50' of wire).
3. Connects into the main switch so when I shut the main off, I know everything is off instead of having stuff wired direct to the battery.

Good luck.

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The Dance II
2007 278 Vista
6.2L Mercruiser

Now that I understand!

Sounds more doable if I can't get over to the starboard side where the breaker is. Thanks for the tip on the wire distributor. I still can't fathom why FW would allow this condition to leave the factory???? Thanks.

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"One Moor Time" 2006 288 Vista
"Kalin II" 1995 258 Vista
"Kalin" 1985 Four Winns 215 Santara