Bow thruster project

TX H210SS · **Joined:** Thu May 27, 2010 9:10 am **Posts:** 1488

Awesome project....and talk about STONES...I would have needed whiskey to cut those holes. I'm no engineer, but now there's a cross support in that section of hull. Doesn't this wind up beefing up the hull strength in that area?

Haddock_ · **Posted:** Mon Mar 30, 2015 12:02 am

TX H210SS wrote:

Awesome project....and talk about STONES...I would have needed whiskey to cut those holes. I'm no engineer, but now there's a cross support in that section of hull. Doesn't this wind up beefing up the hull strength in that area?

Probably, but the tube itself is quite thin, 4mm. The hull is so strong I doubt this makes any difference. Good thought though.

Haddock_ · **Posted:** Mon Mar 30, 2015 12:05 am

Graham R wrote:

As a matter of interest, what is the tube made of ? Does it make sense to drill the attachment holes for the motor/ gearbox before it's fitted to the hull ?

My 278 is diesel powered (European D4 +DPH). I won't be going to a twin engine boat due to fuel costs here. Either diesel or gas. I can't comment on economy as I have done less than 1 engine hour since I bought it in March 2014; problems with the EVC-C system that basically boiled down to a faulty shift actuator that precipitated unexpected "no gear/ limp home " selection mode at the worst times. Some other bizarre issues came to light as well that Volvo Penta seem to accept can't be solved ! Like the drive trim that will not work via the trim button on the shift lever "as it doesn't like sharing the same low voltage power supply as the throttle" ! A separate trim panel had to be fitted ( that wires in to another part of the EVC circuitry). Very strange, I didn't argue as it was covered by some sort of warranty. Doing it myself, I would have wired a separate 12V supply to the trim switch and a couple of relays.

The system is basically; standard up/ down trim switch; to EVC black box; to standard trim pump/ relay assembly. Likewise the shift; electronic F-N-R shift on lever, to EVC black box, to shift actuator: which is attached to a shift cable !!!!!

I also find it a strange omission that they didn't fit a freshwater flush inlet on the inlet pipework to the raw water pump; the American VP engines have had such a thing since ca. 2003.

The next concern is corrosion of the Nibral props; isolated from all anodes. Hopefully the ACP system I fitted will help, the LEDs showed it was working at maximum capacity but there was some corrosion already (some sources claim the props last less than 12 months in saltwater !). I'm wondering about fitting bonding wires between the props and inner hubs, maybe doubling up on anodes.

I have heard of similar issues with the VP system...seems to be similar experiences at times with the D6's too. EVC...

The propeller thing seems weird! Go to stainless props? Looks like maybe you got a system made for freshwater use...?

Graham R · **Posted:** Mon Mar 30, 2015 2:46 am

[quote="Haddock_"I have heard of similar issues with the VP system...seems to be similar experiences at times with the D6's too. EVC...

The propeller thing seems weird! Go to stainless props? Looks like maybe you got a system made for freshwater use...?[/quote]

No. All DPH drives use the G series "Nibral" props, there are no stainless steel props available for this drive. It's been engineered so nothing else will fit. The DPR drive which is always fitted with stainless props is identical to the DPH, except for the lower unit ! So DPR props won't fit. They have a lucrative ongoing replacement market and no-one supplies aftermarket ones. It's not difficult to imagine why; haven't the aftermarket DPS props quietly disappeared from the market ?

I was at a prop repair shop a few weeks ago; they had a sizeable pile of scrap G series props on a pallet, all unrepairable due to corrosion.

Long term, if the prop require changing every 12 months then it might be cheaper to get a DPR lower unit with stainless props !

ric · **Posted:** Mon Mar 30, 2015 8:14 am

I thought pretty much everyone stopped coring the hulls by the mid 90s?

Cap'n Morgan · **Posted:** Mon Mar 30, 2015 8:37 am

The thruster/tube looks to be too low/too close to the keel in your DIY project.

Factory thrusters are mounted higher up, closer to the chine. As below.

Haddock_ · **Posted:** Mon Mar 30, 2015 10:19 am

IIRC the min distance to keel was 1/3 the diameter of the tube, so I'm good but you are right, it is close

It is a total compromise, height, forth/aft and interior practicalities. I could not have put it higher, glassing would have been impossible without cutting up the whole front v-berth interior.

Haddock_ · **Posted:** Sat Apr 25, 2015 1:18 pm

The last few weeks i've working on this as much as time allows, probably two nights a week plus near a full day every weekend. Nothing particularly exciting to photo, a lot of sanding, filler, sand again, fill again, layers of epoxy paint etc. The tube is done, the motor is finally mounted now. It is REALLY hard to build up the shape of the lip by free hand as all the varying colours of plastic and filler means I couldn't really see the shape and only after I had painted with topcoat could I really get a feel. A few holes and irregularities are there but I dont want to sand into the fibreglass as it is structural which limits the smoothness I can get. Oh well, pretty happy with this nonetheless.

Now it is time to move over to the electrics of the installation, feels like half the interior has to come away...pics after I'm done. A few weeks to go, then this is finished and I can donthe regular things before splashing and trying it for real.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Sun Apr 26, 2015 6:47 am

Looks good., when will it get tested?

Haddock_ · **Posted:** Sun Apr 26, 2015 11:30 am

I'm hoping to splash in 2-3 weeks.

The cleanup after this operation is enormous. No single surface is clean...dust is EVERYWHERE

The electrics are approx 60-70% done, but I had short a gauge 1 (50mm2) wire so new one needs to be acquired before finalisation.

Graham R · **Posted:** Sun Apr 26, 2015 4:25 pm

Haddock_ wrote:

I'm hoping to splash in 2-3 weeks.

The cleanup after this operation is enormous. No single surface is clean...dust is EVERYWHERE

The electrics are approx 60-70% done, but I had short a gauge 1 (50mm2) wire so new one needs to be acquired before finalisation.

Buy a hydraulic crimper and the terminals/ super flexible cable/ adhesive lined heatshrink on Ebay. The cables you make will be the perfect length ( and the end connections will look very nice ! ) .For my rewire it worked out cheaper than buying ready made cables and I have yet to sell off for scrap 20' + of 70mm2 cable ! ( daft, they used 6 or 9 foot long cables when 3 foot was more then long enough).

Haddock_ · **Posted:** Mon Apr 27, 2015 12:43 am

Graham R wrote:

Haddock_ wrote:

I'm hoping to splash in 2-3 weeks.

The cleanup after this operation is enormous. No single surface is clean...dust is EVERYWHERE

The electrics are approx 60-70% done, but I had short a gauge 1 (50mm2) wire so new one needs to be acquired before finalisation.

Buy a hydraulic crimper and the terminals/ super flexible cable/ adhesive lined heatshrink on Ebay. The cables you make will be the perfect length ( and the end connections will look very nice ! ) .For my rewire it worked out cheaper than buying ready made cables and I have yet to sell off for scrap 20' + of 70mm2 cable ! ( daft, they used 6 or 9 foot long cables when 3 foot was more then long enough).

That is what I have. Very flexible, very thick. I crimp the end terminals in a crimp tool in a vice and on top of that solder them with a gas blower. Done it before. Bit of a challenge doing it for four connections where I need to T in inside the boat galley behind the micro...it is done yesyerday.

deafwish · **Posted:** Mon Apr 27, 2015 2:14 am

Soldering upside-down, in a bildge is where it's at! :lol:

Jdpber · **Posted:** Mon Apr 27, 2015 8:41 am

Haddock_ wrote:

I'm hoping to splash in 2-3 weeks.

The cleanup after this operation is enormous. No single surface is clean...dust is EVERYWHERE

The electrics are approx 60-70% done, but I had short a gauge 1 (50mm2) wire so new one needs to be acquired before finalisation.

oh I 100% can relate.. My boat is apart for a new cockpit floor. wish that my 4" grinder with the 40grit wheel had a dust collection port like my DA sander.. EVERY surface is dust. the entire boat needs a detail and cleaning once this project is finished.

LouC · **Posted:** Mon Apr 27, 2015 9:42 am

deafwish wrote:

Soldering upside-down, in a bildge is where it's at! :lol:

Yes that's fun isn't it. Although most marine electrical experts say crimp ons, if you use the marine ones in the first place and then properly seal round them are better.
I heard a story of a guy who was working upside between 2 inboards, and got stuck!! Could not get out...finally his wife came looking for him (boat was in the yard at home) and had to call the Fire Dept to get him out!

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Bow thruster project

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