'93 190 Horizon. 20 year revival (Pic heavy)

Jdpber · **Posted:** Sat Mar 28, 2015 7:07 pm

Got the bench all together. Routered 1/2" radius edges. And DA sander the entire box. Test fit and loving the added 6" of leg room to the cockpit. I am 6'2" and have tons of room to loubge out and stretch out. While also gaining 3" additional access to the front of the engine.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Sat Mar 28, 2015 7:20 pm

The rear hatch hinge that I got off of ebay for $9 came in. I wish I could have found a second. And a brass Sleve for the starboard side. I am contimplating turning some brass on the laithe and making a SS hinge to match.

LouC · **Posted:** Sun Mar 29, 2015 8:14 am

Is there wood backing for that hinge?

298VISTA2000 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 29, 2015 8:51 am

How did I miss this thread? Very nice work and dedication and an inspiration for me to get off my ass and finish reconditioning my out-drives and get my boat ready for the season.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Sun Mar 29, 2015 2:58 pm

LouC wrote:

Is there wood backing for that hinge?

Yes looks like about 3/4-1" thick of wood glassed into those side bulkheads. But I am thinking I will still go with my center moubted hinges with star board backing.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Tue Mar 31, 2015 10:27 am

ok to start off the other day I forgot to log the work times.

3/24 - 45 minutes - cut the bench box wood
3/28 - 2.5hrs - Glued and screwed the bench with sub box divide, router edges, shaded the entire box. Test fit the bench in the boat.
3/30 - 1hr 15 min - Cleaned up the shop, Organized the pieces of wood. One last fitment of all the sub floor pieces int he boat. trimming and last adjustments to the bulkheads. Glued and screwed the bulkheads laminating them together. Set up the plastic drop cloth floor and arranged the saw horses with attached table top surfaces for the parts to be glassed on. Plastic will be placed on the table tops to collect any resin.

TOTAL 23.66 man hours so far. and i would guess 1/3-1/2 of that is looking at things measuring and thinking out the best course of action.

tonight i will sand the bulkheads and prep them for glass. it is high 70s today and only dipping to 58. so i will run the heater in the shop so it is a nice and hot dry environment this evening and get the first side of the pieces glassed. tomorrow i am hoping with another 75+ degree day i will be able to flip and glass the other side tomorrow night.

I am wanting some mid ship cleats and i cannot make up my mind if i want to bolt on some SS raises cleats like the factory style. OR add in some flush mount pop up cleats mid ship. OPEN TO OPINIONS.

LVChris · **Posted:** Tue Mar 31, 2015 10:57 am

Nice work and report. My opinion is use pop-up cleats. As many times as I have caught a finger, pant leg, line, pole, etc. on my cleats I will eventually put pop-ups all around, see no reason why you shouldn't.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Tue Mar 31, 2015 11:07 am

LVChris wrote:

Nice work and report. My opinion is use pop-up cleats. As many times as I have caught a finger, pant leg, line, pole, etc. on my cleats I will eventually put pop-ups all around, see no reason why you shouldn't.

only negative with all around is the existing are 4 hole and the pop ups may not flange cover the 4 homes and i could not live with that.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Tue Mar 31, 2015 8:59 pm

3/31 35min - opened the glass. Laid out the glass and made some cuts. Glass happened.

A $8 bubble buster is a key secret wepon in forming a nice even resin layer. Busting bubbles. And a full even saturation for a clear and strong glass job.

50/50 epoxi resin sure makes mixing easy and precise.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Wed Apr 01, 2015 8:06 am

this morning the glass was rock solid with a dozen or so hair hickies that happened because i did not toss the scrap glass shavings in the trash nd the wind kicked them up.. live and learn. the DA sander will flatten hem out anyways when it gets ruffed for the corner taping at the glass in process.

NOTE TO SELF. put some thin spacers under the items being glassed so any drips on the edges do not bond to the table lol. OR lay down wax paper. I knew first round would bring out all the things i have forgotten in the past 2 years away from glass.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Wed Apr 01, 2015 10:35 pm

4/1 1hr 10min

Roll out, trace, cut multiple sections of 1708. Mix resin and wet out one stringer.

Had to stop to eat dinner. Baith a 4 month old, pack for Easter out of town and a wedding out of town. While wife was getting all the junk together for the little man i sanded the high spots off of the bulkheads and port seat base.

Sunday when I get home i will do the other stringer and the bulkheads.

Hoping to get the stringers and bulkheads installed this week and glassed in. I need this done so that I can build the supports for the fuel tank hatch support and the ubder side hatch reinforcement stiffening.

One step at a time to get to the next step.

So ready to see fresh bright white in the bildge.

Jsyphil · **Posted:** Thu Apr 02, 2015 9:30 am

Amazing work. Superb.
Can't wait to see more!

rpengr · **Posted:** Thu Apr 02, 2015 10:26 am

Jdpber wrote:

LVChris wrote:

Nice work and report. My opinion is use pop-up cleats. As many times as I have caught a finger, pant leg, line, pole, etc. on my cleats I will eventually put pop-ups all around, see no reason why you shouldn't.

only negative with all around is the existing are 4 hole and the pop ups may not flange cover the 4 homes and i could not live with that.

Pop up cleats should have a drain hose attached for proper installation, usually draining into the bilge. Personally, I like fixed cleats better.

GottWhat · **Posted:** Thu Apr 02, 2015 10:42 am

Good progress

Jdpber · **Posted:** Thu Apr 02, 2015 11:14 am

sure hope next weeks forgets gives me some outside time with no rain to be able to glass all of the structure into the boat.

www.iFourWinns.com

'93 190 Horizon. 20 year revival (Pic heavy)

Who is online