www.iFourWinns.com

Yeah...I know the transom LED's are ridiculously expensive! Especially knowing that LED's are so inexpensive to produce. How do you plan on putting lights on your platform? What kind of lights? These boat drain plug lights http://www.hurleymarine.com/Drain_Lights.html are kind of neat also...but wouldn't work well with I/0. Can anybody give a "play by play" on how to wire LED's to a 12 volt system?

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Matt-

2007 Four Winns H190
Earth First, We'll Mine the Other Planets Later

Mine are not going to be under water. I am mounting 180 leds (6ft strip) under the platform to shine on the water in RED.

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Step #1. Find 12V LEDs. Cabella's has a decent selection and price. These are not difficult to find.
Step #2. Get your electrical schematics, and mix with imagination.
Step #3. Install.

The only switch I added was for the Engine Hatch. Otherwise, I just spliced into the existing using the color code provided in the electrical schematics contained in my owners manual. It's not Nuclear Science, but I am qualified just in case.

As far as underwater lighting.... Our lakes are so murky, it just wouldn't work. Any color you tried would look like "turd brown".

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

I ran all mine off my anchor lights the first time. Then I had to put them on a switch, the bugs got bad now I can turn them off if needed.

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LOL - that's usually not true for Table Rock, but it is so far this year apparently.

As a point of reference, all my refrigerator gnomes say "Sam Adams Light" on the sides of them. Weird.

I'd like to get some more detailed info on the specific LED's used and the switch setup for the engine compartment lighting. That seems like a very worthwhile upgrade.

And Walt, I assume you updated your schematics to include your changes?

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I know it sounds wierd. But, the lake is completely different at night. None of the waverunners, and other crazies out. Shut down the motor and drift under the stars listening to camp fires crackling in the distance. And the occasional drunk trying to get his boat on the trailer.... at 60 mph..... 1/4 mile from the lake!

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

I haven't updated my schematics yet, but do plan on it.
The LED's were the 12LED strip available through Cabella's. They are no longer showing that item, but I'm sure the 6LED strip would work fine. The hatch switch was just a simple SPDT limit switch available at Radioshack for about $2.

The wiring was simple. Using the schematics, I located the lead OUT of the light switch for the Anchor light. This way with either the Anchor lights, or Nav lights on, I'd have power. Using some crimp connectors, I attached my Cupholder LED's (Yes, my Nav/Anchor lights also power my Cupholders and Engine comp lighting!). I left a connection on my rear-most cupholder on the Stbd side, and ran a set of wires from there into the engine comparment. From there I ran the hot to the limit switch through the vent holes nearest the Engine Compartment hinge on the Driver side. I attached the wiring to the NC contacts on the switch, soldiered, and used heat shrink. Drilling would have been silly, so I just used some good epoxy to mount the switch. Then mounted the lights where they were visible, but not getting in the way of storage, not glaring at me when open. I decided just under the lip on the forward bulkhead of the Engine comparment. I mounted one in each bay (3). Ran my switch leg (hot) and the return leg (ground). Using spade connectors, so they may be replaced as needed and shrink wrapped. I covered all the wiring with 1/2" wire protector, then used some 1/2" mounts and plenty of wire ties to make it look good. There were a few spots I couldn't get the drill, so doesn't look as good as I'd like. viola!
As far as ground/return path... I recommend each circuit has it's own dedicated return path to a common point (ie cicuit panel) This prevents poor connections from "finding" a way back to ground, and makes trouble shooting much easier down the road. After all, I've been through the "Well, when I turn on this switch, these lights come on too...."

I hope that helps....If you need any other info, just ask.

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

Thanks for the great info Walt!

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Hey... Walt's Mod's season two has begun!

Transom Stereo Remote-
When my boat was in for fiberglass work, I had them cut the hole at the swim platform to mount my stereo remote. My only gripe is the unit does not display time. Awh well, it's always beer:30 on the boat anyhow.

Wireless remote trim/tilt-
Second mod is a remote to run the drive up. As posted previously, I installed a keyless remote system to toggle the lights. This system also had an aux contact set available as well. The design being to roll up the car windows remotely. I simply took that contact and wired it to the trim/tilt up circuit (with only one aux I could only go one way!). Though not quite as functional as the transom mounted switches, It will still be very useful. I'm sure if I shop around, I could find one to give me more functions, but for $100 and some ingenuity, I'm not complaining.

That is really all I have on tap for this year.

If you would like your own written transcript of "Walts Mods" just grab a pencil and paper and write down every last word!

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

Right on!

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2008 H210SS VP 5.7 Gi/SX
2011 Ford F150 FX4 EB

Great looking improvements - gives me lots of ideas

Before I begin Season 3 of Walt's Mod's, I would like to thank Pet575 and Otoolea for help in choosing and ordering Perfect Pass.

This season may not be the biggest, but was definately the most expensive

This year I have installed:
Stereo remote in the bow area
Depth w/Air and water temp
Stern "under swim-deck" lights
Perfect Pass Stargazer
Dash gage light dimmer

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

The stereo remote, cable and splitter (needed because I already have one remote at the swim platform) ran about $150 all together thru Amazon. I decided to mount it next to the speaker in the bow on the stbd side. I used masking tape, marking everything out with a sharpie, removed the speaker and checked for anything in the way. Using a 3" hole saw took some time, but worked nicely. Ran the wires for the stereo, as well as a light circuit fed off the ctsy lights. Since it would be in my line of sight driving at night, I thought not to have it wired to the nav's. for the same reason, I re-wired the rear to the ctsy as well. With the contour, it did not seat quite as tight as I would have liked, but am very pleased none the less.

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

Looks good, man. I like the idea of a bow stereo remote.

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Paul
2007 Four Winns Horizon 220
Mercruiser 350 Mag MPI w/ Bravo III Drive
2004 Ford Explorer Limited (V8-AWD)
Pomme de Terre Lake (Southwest Missouri)

Depth Finder with air/water temp sensor

Under-swim platform lighting

This little item also ran about $150 through amazon. It's a faria, so a direct replacement for my previous dash mount unit, and plugs directly into the depth finder harness. The only issue was running the temp senders. The air temp, I just ran it forward to the housing for my horn. This is protected from the elements, not in direct sunlight, and gets plenty of air flow. For water, I ran to the stern. Using a tape measure as fish tape got the wires to the right place. The only issue was drilling into my boat.

At the same time, I decided to mount the under-swim platform lights mentioned on a previous post. These are simply white livewell lights (LED) from Bass Pro for $12 ea. Again, I wired these to the ctsy lights at the same time I was re-wiring my swim deck stereo remote (close proximity).

For drilling holes, again masking tape and a marker. Drill a small hole, check for anything in the way, then go to the desired size. I also campher the holes to stress relieve the gelcoat. I found a step-bit (u-bit) to work really well in doing this, and not causing any damage.





I mounted the lights, and all is well...




These holes are technically above the water line, even when at rest, but I haven't had the boat in the water yet, so wish me luck!

_________________
Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.