www.iFourWinns.com

Got it off! I finally found some half decent directions online that I will re-write up and post here for other. Once I had the right tools it was really easy.

I got pretty much everything else ready to go to remove the engine. Removed the blower, trim, steering and all electrical connections. I took a ton of photos and labeled all the connections so hopefully it can go together easily.

I'll post a few pics later.

So good progress was made. Here's a few pics.

The new outdrive stand. Not sure why I waited so long to build one.


Exhaust elbows and gimbal assembly


EVERYTHING removed around then engine


The gallows (134" from the ground to the bottom of the beam)

So I found a broken ground strap between the inner transom bracket and the steering arm (PN: 3853929). The part is NLA everywhere I have looked.

So what is the best solution folks have found to make your own?

I'd get a length of tinned marine wire like 12 gauge and use Anchor marine ring terminals and make up your own. If you used good quality marine stuff it will hold up.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Lots going on but not much progress. Got the last tools (engine stand, cherry picker) I needed for the engine removal. Engine comes out this Saturday!


Got the trim cylinders apart with only one broken spanner wrench. What do people think about the condition of the chrome?

I would try to polish it with a buffing compound. If you don't have access to a buffing wheel on a bench grinder, then maybe a cloth wheel on a dremel tool. (keep the grit out of the new seals)

Chrome is so hard, that it will be difficult to remove much material, but you don't want to remove much anyway. As long as it feels smooth with your finger, then the seals should have no problem with it.

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings

re the chrome; are you sure it's chrome ? I don't think it is. The stainless ends were welded onto the shafts on my dps drives, I didn't think welding chromed steel to stainless was ever successful commercially. I am pretty sure the shaft is also stainless. I have used some chrome polish on a long thin piece of cloth. to polish out defects on the trim ram shafts Wrap it around the shaft a few times and move it like you were trying to spin a twig to light a fire ( old scout habits never die, it seems !)

Yes, don't be tempted to use stainless braid; stainless steel is a poor electrical conductor so limits the conductivity between components (that didn't stop VP using it though on their underwater ground straps and anode retaining hardware !).

As a followup here is a picture (worth 1000 words) of how to remove the gimble ring from the Steering arm without needing the special tool. The trick is there are 2 sets of concentric threads. The bolt you remove during dissasembly is NOT what is needed to use to remove the gimbal ring. You need a 9/16-18 bold, about 2" long.

1) Get a small piece of ~1/4" steel (1.5"x1.5") and drill a clearance hole for a 9/16 bolt in the center. I used a stack of thick washers when I did mine.
2) Thread the 9/16-18 nut onto the bolt
3) Thread the bolt into the gimbal ring finger tight
4) Place a wrench on the bold head to keep it from rotating while you turn the nut to apply pressure to the plate. There are two dowl pins so this can be a tight fit. Be sure you already removed the lower steering support bracket!



Any questions? I hope this helps someone.

Nice post.

This would be good to post in it's own thread so it can be found in a search... with a title like "How to remove the gimble ring from the Steering arm without needing the special tool (Volvo Penta)" (if that's not too long)

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings

I think it'd be nice to have a "guides" forum, where there are specific topics for different things. For instance I know LouC has posted a few times about his proper way to drain the water. It's posted in different places in different forums. It would be nice to have them all in one place.

Well we really have a hole in the boat now! More to come...

Well with some help from a few good friends removing the engine from the boat was not that difficult. Have the right tools on hand made it pretty quick (about an hour). A few tips for folks in the future:

1) Because of the location of the attachment points on the engine for lifting the engine wants to roll to the left (when looking at the engine). This makes the engine get hung up on the front motor mounts which are just two long threaded rods that fit into very tight fitting holes on the engine. To solve this we had one person push DOWN on the right side of the engine while another person used a pry bar to lift UP on the left side. This process worked together so the engine would come up nice and straight and over the mounts.

2) My setup (beam 134" from the ground) was about the minimum height I would build this setup again to raise the engine high enough to get it out of the boat. I had about 3" of extra "lift" left in the chain hoist above what I needed to get the bottom of the oil pan over the edge in the boat. I was proud I did all the math right the first time

3) To attach the engine to an engine stand means you need to remove the starter, flywheel housing, flywheel, flywheel cover and flywheel coupling. Pretty much everything that would be where the transmission would attach in a regular car engine. This was more than I was initially expecting but was not hard at all.

I have a picture of my engine swinging in the breeze and I'll post it later.

Question.

So I remove one of the exhaust risers to see what condition they were. Below are some pictures of what I can see on the inside. From my uneducated inspection it seems like the exhaust manifold looks OK and the riser looks questionable. I didn't see any rust inside of the gas only chamber of the exhaust manifold. Thoughts? Replace just the rise? Neither? These appear to be original to the boat.

Manifold



Riser

In regards to #1: When removing an engine, I have always left the front engine mounts attached to the engine, and just un-lagged (or unbolted) them from the boat. Never had to re-adjust the engine height doing it this way.

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings