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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 7:54 am 
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Got the boat back late last night. Under the gun now!

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 9:22 am 
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I am back at working on the trim cylinders since I got the rebuild kit last week. I CANNOT get the end of the ram off that is "supposed" to come off (the end that attaches to the rod. So can I remove the other end (the side with the springs) to do this job? Will I be able to get it reassembled without issue and needing a special tool to compress those springs?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 4:04 pm 
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Has anyone done these 60deg angled 1 3/4" holes at the top of the transom cutout? Any tips?

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 4:18 pm 
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Location: West Palm Beach, FL
tymorrissette wrote:
Has anyone done these 60deg angled 1 3/4" holes at the top of the transom cutout? Any tips?

They are really just clearance for the steering arm. I don't see why you couldn't cut the clearance with a rotozip or similar. You will want a carbide bit because fiberglass will quickly dull a high-speed-steel bit.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 3:17 pm 
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rpengr wrote:
tymorrissette wrote:
Has anyone done these 60deg angled 1 3/4" holes at the top of the transom cutout? Any tips?

They are really just clearance for the steering arm. I don't see why you couldn't cut the clearance with a rotozip or similar. You will want a carbide bit because fiberglass will quickly dull a high-speed-steel bit.


I took the drawing and printed this little fixture out. This is 2" tall so when there is enough material removed from the transom it should sit flush in the opening.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 7:47 am 
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Anyone have experiance here?

Quote:
I am back at working on the trim cylinders since I got the rebuild kit last week. I CANNOT get the end of the ram off that is "supposed" to come off (the end that attaches to the rod. So can I remove the other end (the side with the springs) to do this job? Will I be able to get it reassembled without issue and needing a special tool to compress those springs?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 9:26 am 
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tymorrissette wrote:
Anyone have experiance here?

Quote:
I am back at working on the trim cylinders since I got the rebuild kit last week. I CANNOT get the end of the ram off that is "supposed" to come off (the end that attaches to the rod. So can I remove the other end (the side with the springs) to do this job? Will I be able to get it reassembled without issue and needing a special tool to compress those springs?

I rebuilt the cylinders on my previous OMC Cobra (1987) in the past. I just remember that on the Cobra, the "Rod End" of the pistons does not come off. The Piston End does. Step one was to make or obtain a spanner wrench to unscrew the head of the cylinder (over oil catch pan). Then the head and piston slide out together. Then remove the nut to remove the Piston End, so that the rod can be slid out of the head. Now all of the O-ring seals should be accessible. They were all standard O-rings that I was able to get from a local hydraulic supply house. (I don't remember a spring).

After reassembly, there was no special bleeding procedure, although you could probably prefill the cylinder some of the way with hyd-oil so you don't have to fill the pump reservoir as many times. Just running the trim up and down several times will bleed the rest of the air out (while rechecking the reservoir level).

You must find out if the pump reservoir is to be checked with the trim up or down. On the Cobra, it was UP.

ps. Love the 3D print idea

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tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 10:01 am 
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Both sides will come off but on mine the distal end was easier to remove (just had to get brave).

The bolt size is 1/2-20 on the distal and and looks to be 1/2-13 on the proximal end.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 10:27 am 
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tymorrissette wrote:
Both sides will come off but on mine the distal end was easier to remove (just had to get brave).

The bolt size is 1/2-20 on the distal and and looks to be 1/2-13 on the proximal end.

Looking at that, I'm sure the Cobra Rod end must have been removable also, but there was no need to remove it.

Ray

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tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 6:40 pm 
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Spent two days at the end of the week working on the house project while paint was drying. Got almost everything painted. Just need to do the trim cylinders. Going to try and put the transom back together this coming weekend and get everything all set to put the engine back in. Its getting cold in CT!

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2015 2:38 pm 
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It's wet in cold up here and I am begining to worry I wont' be able to get the engine back before winter :cry: . So what should I do to winterize the motor if I can't start it? My thought was to re-install the manifolds and risers and fill everything with AF like normal. Then spray fogging oil down into the cylinders and cover her with a sheet till spring. Anything else?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2015 3:37 pm 
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tymorrissette wrote:
It's wet in cold up here and I am begining to worry I wont' be able to get the engine back before winter :cry: . So what should I do to winterize the motor if I can't start it? My thought was to re-install the manifolds and risers and fill everything with AF like normal. Then spray fogging oil down into the cylinders and cover her with a sheet till spring. Anything else?

The main thing is making sure all the water is drained out. I would think you could skip the antifreeze and spray fogging this year. How about putting a pail of damp rid with the engine and wrapping with a plastic sheet?

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2015 4:22 pm 
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Consider also removing each spark plug & spraying fogging oil in to each cylinder.
Back filling the engine with AF would not hurt. :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 8:15 am 
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Transom thru hole was fixed by my fiberglass guy...so I will be drilling the thru holes this weekend and doing a dry fitting. Fingers crossed.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 3:28 pm 
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Is the edges of the wood coring sealed in the cutout and any other openings? I can't tell from that picture, but I'd seal it with some epoxy to prevent future rot. I think LouC or someone might have already mentioned it but I wanted to make sure you knew.

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