'93 190 Horizon. 20 year revival (Pic heavy)

Jdpber · **Posted:** Mon Sep 14, 2015 8:11 am

A few things. not a ton of photos, simply put wet glass is boring and all the pictures look the same..

UPDATE! ok the box got another layer of 9oz on the bottom last night as i felt that it needed the little bit of added protection for when sliding back and forth. At lunch today the 4 corners of the bottom will get one last reinforcement square not h corners.

the Ski locker hatch is 98% perfect smooth and shaped, it needs a tad of fill in a couple spots tonight aka a dab of resin while i add the last of the touch up/finishing glass on the fuel compartment cavity seams. and along the engine bay. Fairing compound has started to be pulled on the floor after a 60g DA scuff and knock down of the couple random drips and tailfethers. Tonight after i do the little bit of glass and add some more compound i will let all of that dry while i mow the grass. once the little man i down asleep i will suit up in my sexy white dust suit and start the dust collector and get at it.. i tell you seeing things smooth and uniform color, even if it is gray pink makes me happy as uniform tone looks so much better..

picture time

boring glass picture not he box. see i will not post 50 pics of this repetition. but here..

Jdpber · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2015 10:21 am

well after a LOT of detail work to get the box FLAT like i wanted. i may have gotten a tad carried away with making it perfect. but she has primer. i have since block sanded the face and the top as it had a few pen holes and imperfections that i was not happy with. She is now perfectly flat. This week she will get color. when this stinking rain stops i will pull the last of the mud in the cockpit so that i can get it in primer and the non skid down and painted before the winter kicks in. all that is left is the bottom side of the Fuel hatch and the rear engine hatch.. Those should go much faster than the bench as they will be covered in either upholstery or non skid or closed where it is irrelevant to the finish perfection. Yes i will have the back sides nice but i will not focus on the time to make them look like they came out of a factory mold like i have done on the bench and floor hatches that are exposed.

GottWhat · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2015 2:05 pm

Looks good. Still keeping track of your time?

Jdpber · **Posted:** Tue Nov 17, 2015 3:37 pm

Well the high build has been block sanded and she is like glass. (Could not find sanded smooth pic, will take one tonight)

got the Fuel tank hatch finalized on what i want for securing it and support. i waffled around with a few ways to do this but finally came to a decision and have started forward progress.

1" thick Star board will be on the sides of the stringers. They will have SS helical thread inserts in them vertical. Horzontal holes drilled with countersink attaching them to the stringers. these will get 3200 on the screws so that they can be removed int he event that the tank needs to be removed. the hatch will be secured with vertical SS bolts anchoring into the thread inserts. A bead of white calc will be placed around the hatch top seam. this will eliminate water while also eliminating sand and crud from collecting in the crack. As the Fuel tank rarely needs to be accessed this bead can simply be cut with a razor at future times.

The rear cockpit table base will get SS thru bolts. Another base will go in the bow, per the admirals request for bow table placement option as well as the stern placement.

The hatch has a layer of 1708 on the top cockpit floor side. Tonight after work the bottom cross supports ribs will get epoxi and 1708 over it. Tomorrow starts the couple day edge glass work in a vertical jig. this part takes some time but will not be near as bad as the box.. Sunday will be the rear hatch work.

I tell you having a baby sure has put a damper on the forward progress BUT once it is done we can enjoy th new boat as a family.

Oh and i forgot that on THURSDAY i plan to pick up some fenders from a Craigslst guy super cheap. Mainly i an the Ball for the bow when rafting up and to use as a float line end. These balls are great under the bow for the smaller boats that hook up.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Wed Nov 18, 2015 11:36 am

bottom glass with 1708 and cross ribs.. the edges will get sand and the edging glass will start this evening. very happy with how the thick 1708 laid down over the 45* ribs.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Wed Dec 16, 2015 4:14 pm

well progress has been slow the past 3 weeks with a busy schedule and the weather. BUT the holiday vacation time has started so I'm am able to get some work done.

Yesterday in the 73* sunny temps i spent 1.25 hours measuring and getting the reaching locations marked and prepped for drilling.. and got the rear engine hatch / sun pad hinges installed. NEEDLESS to say this entire task took me just shy of 2.75 hours. As that rear wall at the swim platform is (to say tight) would be an understatement.. WARNING: this could not be don't with the rear seat in the boat.. as i had to lay on the floor with my head under the rear deck and reecho up and contort my body like some circus freak. BUT IT IS DONE!

rpengr · **Posted:** Thu Dec 17, 2015 8:49 am

Jdpber wrote:

WARNING: this could not be don't with the rear seat in the boat.. as i had to lay on the floor with my head under the rear deck and reecho up and contort my body like some circus freak...

LOL

It's jobs like this, plus the amount of work it takes to maintain and keep up our boats that inspired the name of my vessel... "KNOT EASY"

Ray

Jdpber · **Posted:** Thu Dec 17, 2015 9:24 am

rpengr wrote:

Jdpber wrote:

WARNING: this could not be don't with the rear seat in the boat.. as i had to lay on the floor with my head under the rear deck and reecho up and contort my body like some circus freak...

LOL

It's jobs like this, plus the amount of work it takes to maintain and keep up our boats that inspired the name of my vessel... "KNOT EASY"

Ray

now that i have done it and know that i need a 15" flexible grabber thing and 20" needle noes pliers to make it happen. And the manner in which to contort my body i could bang this all out is 30 minutes if i had to do it again.. 90% of my time was dropping the parts and trying to figure out a plan of attack. GOOD thing i have a well stocked work shop that has about every tool one could need. (now i am missing a few tools like Vertical Mill, and a lithe) and some specialty one off tools. But over all with a 4' box fill and another 6' tall tower full, couple shelves. I have collected a lot of tools int he past 10 years. and if i don't have the correct tool for the job i go and buy it. Dreaming up new projects helps feed my addiction to tools and gives me an excuse to buy more. The long term goal is to have a complete machine shop / wood shop by the time i retire. As in i have quality tools 25 years from now that i can hand down to my son. None of this walmart plastic Chinese crap! American, german, swiss quality iron and steel..

Tangent yes i know. but i get excited about tools as they allow me to create things.

It will most likely be a few day before i get any work on the boat done as it has been raining for 24hrs and the mixture int he cockpit will not allow for fairing compound aka mud.

I need a larger shop that the boat can me under cover or atlas a nice size over hang off the side of the shop. Next house will be better thought out shop wise.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Tue Dec 22, 2015 9:03 am

holiday vacation has started. Yesterday i spent most of the day working on the boat before the rains came in.. i accomplished: establishing the gunnel wall support locations for the hatch side. These are the temp wooden 1/4 round scraps for mock up. i will have Starboard cut, counter sink, and a nice size water drain trough int he top that will drain out over the transom wall and onto the swim platform. This is in an attempt t divert any and all water out of the boat. These side supports will provide added support as the team implies. My hopes are that with 4 sides of support that the center will have less tendency to want to sag with a load.

the next order of business was fitting the foam template, this was a little time consuming as i want the side profile to match the gunnel walls perfect gap. so i used some 80 grit paper to slowly get the sides how i wanted them with the gap i wanted. I Still have to define the transom radius once I plunge the bolts and do some mock actuation with the hinges.. then i will look at clearances over the engine vents and make a radius. the front will have to be cut back some once the radius is figured for the setback of the center portion of the seat back.

Overall i am very happy with the rear hatch so far. this is the 2nd round with the hatch and i am so glad i re thought things a bit and started it again before i cut raw materials and waisted glass.

I pulled more fill on the gunnel walls and the floor. So i will have lots to sand the week after xmas even if it rains i can climb in the boat and fire up the sander and dust collector.

with the stern viewing angle seeing all of the vertical space. 7.5" at the shortest height i am thinking that i am going to add an above engine storage, i am thinking starboard with tall sides about 5" to store dock lines and a tool kit. I have yet to develop the design BUT i have a couple ideas in mind to make it easy to remove for engine work..

Jdpber · **Posted:** Sun Jan 24, 2016 7:21 pm

The sun helped me get all of the snow gone so that I could finish the engine/bikini pad. Got the foam template finished, bolt holes mocked, and the polished stainless gas struts.

Got the lift angle set about perfect in alignment with the rear body angle.

Got a lot of sanding done on the interior filler on the floor and walls. One maybe 2 more touch up skims then it is time for sand able primer.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Fri Jan 29, 2016 11:03 am

well tomorrow (Saturday) i am sending the wife and the kid to shop with her mom so that i have no interruptions from the boat. Bright n early getting started. goal is to put in a solid 8+ hours of work no the FW.

the goal is to eat lunch sitting not he rear bench seat at the new cockpit table with a cold beer.

Just dropped the hammer on some brand new seat pedistals for the captain seats. The originals were too far gone and for $60 for a pair of polished Anodzed Springfield bases it was not worth my time to try and make the old ones look good. so they should be here middle of the week UPS. Along with an access hatch for the little fishing boat project for this summer... Like the FW i just grab parts when i find them on sale and spread out the bill.

tasks.'

1) transfer the foam hatch to the wood
2) make temporary side gutters out of wood so i know what size Star board to order for the side rain gutters and hatch supports.
3) mount the thru bolt starboard anchor blocks for the fuel hatch
4) drill the hatch holes
5) install hatch
6) put the bench seat into the boat (needed to make template for the back rest.
7) mock up the captain seats

mock the cockpit table in the rear location for mounting holes.
9) mount the table to the fuel hatch

EAT LUNCH WITH A COLD BEER AT THE TABLE.

remove most everything and resin the holes and this and that.

10) pull more filler on the gunnels and a few spots now that everything is out of the cockpit.
11) get the hatch going with router work and supports.
12) layout the under side of the hatch ( i will have brackets to hold 2 of the 2.5" poles one for the table and one for the girll mount, a set of Stainless bar clips for the stern light, a set of SS clips for the brush, and a set of 4 eyebolts that will secure a bungie cord criss cross that holds the table.

SO yes when you open the engine hatch you have all sorts of goodies mounted.

Pics and updates tomorrow. Until then i make my shopping list for the hardware store after work for some SS and refine game plan for tomorrow to not have any down time running all over town for any things i do not have in the shop..

rpengr · **Posted:** Fri Jan 29, 2016 1:42 pm

Your gutter idea is very good. I wish FW did that. My sundeck does not have any gutter on the front or sides, and the front can drip on the engine.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Fri Jan 29, 2016 2:16 pm

rpengr wrote:

Your gutter idea is very good. I wish FW did that. My sundeck does not have any gutter on the front or sides, and the front can drip on the engine.

thanks

see above pictures that i have taped some 1/4 round oak trim to the gunnels to hod the foam up while i was making the template.

I will have a 4' section on each side. The way the hatch lays i will have a bout 3/16 air gap on the transom side of the hatch. The tail end of the gutter will be cut and fitted to the shape of the transom wall and ride not he top of that wall. The gutter will be a 3/8x1/2 deep cup plunger router slot that i will taper up to the above the transom wall. This will direct any water out over the transom wall and onto the swim platform. The gutters will be thru bolted to the inner gunnel sides and give added structural support to the engine hatch on the side (where it is missing now). THEORETICALLY this will eliminate any cupping or sagging of the hatch when bikini girls are sun bathing. I like the idea of 4 sides of support much better than the 2 sides factory. Plus the added water prevention is a plus.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Mon Feb 01, 2016 10:06 am

Saturday went well…

started out making 6 StarBoard blocks with threaded inserts to act as the back blocks for the bolts on the Fuel Hatch.

Got the Bolt Blocks installed

Had to get down into the ski locker to drill and mount the lower bracket for the ski locker gas strut lift.

installed the rear bench for mock up and fitment. LOVE the volume of the bench seeing it in the cockpit.

Testing the location of the cockpit table over a cold beer and some food.

SUNDAY back at it again. transferred the foam template to the wood.

Using a 1/2" tube of PCV i am able to make a bend and have it perfect where the foam is kind of ruff.

Mocked the wood up and traced the underside for the hinge locations.

Made a paper transfer template for the drill holes and transferred that to the wood. And low and behold the bolts lined up perfect.

Tossed on the struts and well i guess they sent me 150# instead of 50# and i never noticed. bottom line 300# of resistance is not allowing the hatch to shut. so i took them off after setting the open angle to match the angle of the rear body line. So i tossed a set of 30# 24" (4" longer) struts on for fitment and mock up so that i can work and not have the hatch smash down or fly away in the hight wind today. I will say that with just the top the dual 30s self rise the hatch from 1/3 of the lift and rise on its own so i will take its weight as is. then the finish weight and determine the correct replacement Stainless struts. But i am guessing that i will be dual 60# struts and be good is my guess.

after a bit of sitting and guessing and trial and error i got the foam back rest template made and fitted how i want.

using slide angle and a protractor i determined the angle for the backrest at the hatch. As i went with 70* on the seat. the hatch and the seat are not parallel so standard geometry was not applicable. I ended up needing a 10* cut on the top of the back rest or 80* which ever way you want.

I set the table saw exactly to the back rest that i liked and ripped the board down tot he correct size.

everything off of the boat as it is supposed to rain tomorrow. I will get the back rest mounted to the hatch and the supports installed this week in the evenings.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Mon Feb 01, 2016 1:18 pm

well i walk in from lunch to find an Amazon box on my office chair. yay presents. I open it up to find an nic new shiny ATTWOOD flush mount P-Trap fuel tank vent. If it is not raining this evening i will bore the existing hole out to proper size and install.

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'93 190 Horizon. 20 year revival (Pic heavy)

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