Fixing the leaky transom -1994 H180

LouC · **Posted:** Wed Apr 27, 2016 11:02 am

lol metric frees you from having to convert fractions to decimals etc. Remember learning to use an old fashioned caliper to measure brake rotor thickness? I have a direct reading metric one now to make it easy on my old eyes.

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

Metric. hahaha

Yes i was talking .050" or 1.27mm for the folks who don't know what those two little lines mean after numbers. :mrgreen:

I will get another shim and throw it in. Won't hurt.

LouC · **Posted:** Wed Apr 27, 2016 11:48 am

tymorrissette wrote:

Metric. hahaha

Yes i was talking .050" or 1.27mm for the folks who don't know what those two little lines mean after numbers. :mrgreen:

I will get another shim and throw it in. Won't hurt.

Sounds good. Like I said mine has nearly no up n down play, only a bit side to side but that's not even in the gimble ring.

rpengr · **Posted:** Wed Apr 27, 2016 12:49 pm

tymorrissette wrote:

Metric. hahaha

Yes i was talking .050" or 1.27mm for the folks who don't know what those two little lines mean after numbers. :mrgreen:

I'm sure Lou understands the two little lines. The confusion is that your first post had 050" That's over 4 feet!
Maybe it needed a little dot before the numbers before the two little lines :mrgreen:

LouC · **Posted:** Wed Apr 27, 2016 5:48 pm

lol....when I saw 050" I was hoping he meant .050" and not 0.50" that would be a LOTTA play....
I taught myself metric back in the early 70s because my first cars were VW Beetle/Dune Buggies and of course all metric. The freedom from fractions was fantastic......

230 Mike · **Posted:** Wed Apr 27, 2016 6:14 pm

Everything's relative.

To many machinists, .050 might as well be a football field.

I'm competent with both metric and fractional, and am tooled up for both. (I too started with a '67 Beetle). But I still prefer fractional for most applications. Mostly I just wish they wouldn't mix them. (Changing a starter? Don't forget the blue bolt. lol)

LouC · **Posted:** Wed Apr 27, 2016 6:45 pm

Isn't it odd that all cars are 100% metric but wheel rims in most cases are will measured in inches. Same to some extent with lug nuts.
Mike you had a '67 Beetle? That was one of the better years; 1500 cc 53 hp engine and 12V electrics (finally).
I had FiberFab Dune Buggy built off a 1956 Bug with a '62 1200 cc 40 hp & extractor exhaust. I picked up a 65 Bug with a dead engine and used to swap the engine back and forth with the seasons. Got the engine swap down to 45 min.
Remember setting the valves at .004" intake and .006" exhaust?
2.5 qts of oil and no filter just a lil screen?
One last thing. The 6 volt models were prone to low voltage to the starter(prob should have had a relay installed). When I got just a click I would:
Leave the ignition on
Get my spark plug socket, extension and long handled ratchet. Put the spark plug socket on the generator nut; and crank it over like a Model T. The compression ratio was low on these so they were easy to crank over by hand. Got a few interested by standers in the college parking lot doing this!!

Jsyphil · **Posted:** Thu Apr 28, 2016 5:07 am

LouC wrote:

Isn't it odd that all cars are 100% metric but wheel rims in most cases are will measured in inches. Same to some extent with lug nuts.

I share the same regarding multi use of metric & Imperial. Being the other side of the pond my first cars were 'classic' Minis and all bolts/fittings were imperial so was well versed in this.
Obviously in Europe 99% of things now are metric and to be fair i do prefer this in regards to bolts, nuts and machining tolerances. But i share the ability to understand what "50 thou" is in machining and my multi use has taught me well when it comes to knowing that a 10mm socket will just about fit on a 3/8" nut etc etc. :lol:

However you're right Lou, even now in Europe rims are imperial, and tyres are more confusing too; here my car has a 215/50/16 tyre which is a mishmash - the 16 being inches, the 215 being width in mm and the 50 being a percentage of that as a sidewall thickness! Wonder who came up with that formula!
I work in construction and everything is still expressed in inches. 4x2 is just the done thing and easier than 100x50mm!

Sorry for the thread derail, good work tymorrissette, you're doing great

GottWhat · **Posted:** Thu Apr 28, 2016 8:37 am

Jsyphil wrote:

LouC wrote:

Isn't it odd that all cars are 100% metric but wheel rims in most cases are will measured in inches. Same to some extent with lug nuts.

I share the same regarding multi use of metric & Imperial. Being the other side of the pond my first cars were 'classic' Minis and all bolts/fittings were imperial so was well versed in this.
Obviously in Europe 99% of things now are metric and to be fair i do prefer this in regards to bolts, nuts and machining tolerances. But i share the ability to understand what "50 thou" is in machining and my multi use has taught me well when it comes to knowing that a 10mm socket will just about fit on a 3/8" nut etc etc. :lol:

However you're right Lou, even now in Europe rims are imperial, and tyres are more confusing too; here my car has a 215/50/16 tyre which is a mishmash - the 16 being inches, the 215 being width in mm and the 50 being a percentage of that as a sidewall thickness! Wonder who came up with that formula!
I work in construction and everything is still expressed in inches. 4x2 is just the done thing and easier than 100x50mm!

Sorry for the thread derail, good work tymorrissette, you're doing great

"Tyres" are measured the same way here as well, we just call them "tires"

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

Getting really close now. Need to finish painting one trim cylinder then they both can be installed and that system purged before the engine goes in. I installed the gas, vent and bildge lines today also. I just need to clean up the last bit of wiring then she will be ready to get the engine back in.

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

LouC · **Posted:** Wed May 04, 2016 5:22 pm

Coming along really nicely. When done it will be better than new...

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

Also, shimming really did the trick on the gimbal ring to take up the slop. I took the steering bracket off, removed the washer that was the most worn and then placed two washers back in. The washers are about 0.045" thick so this seemed to be perfect. Easy job for anyone to do in the future if they need to.

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

Decided to replace the positive battery cable as the old one has seen better days. It was pretty corroded on both ends and in FW fashion it wasn't marine wire. For about $19 I got a custom cable made and shipped to my door.

Old and the new

LouC · **Posted:** Mon May 09, 2016 5:42 pm

Good move on the cables. The OE stuff is not usually tinned marine wire which is much more corrosion resistant. I used 2 gauge for the short run for the batt near the switch and 1/0 for the battery on the opposite side; due to the longer run. It's important to use the right gauge cable to avoid voltage drop; your starter will work better and last longer....

www.iFourWinns.com

Fixing the leaky transom -1994 H180

Who is online