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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2015 11:54 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Thu Sep 02, 2010 2:43 am
Posts: 78
Maybe I missed it , but what year is this boat ? It looks very much like my 1998 258 .

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1998 VISTA 258


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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 2:04 am 
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Shark

Joined: Thu Dec 04, 2014 10:09 am
Posts: 138
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands (UK)
Hey...

Year 2000 on the registration document - so either manufactured in 1999 or 2000.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 6:17 am 
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Shark

Joined: Thu Dec 04, 2014 10:09 am
Posts: 138
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands (UK)
Bit of a thread ressurection!

This years maintenance/tlc has started.

So first up, the boat was hauled out on a trailer. Then we took out the seats etc, then powerwashed and the drive was removed:

Image

I gave her a quick polish and antifoul:
Image

And then onto the serious stuff.
My crank oil seal/timing cover was leaking oil. Not much but a few drips and it just goes everywhere/makes a mess and irritated me lots last year. So had to be sorted. Those in the know will realise this means engine removal :?

So this happened:
Image

Leaving this:
Image


The Hot water had never worked, and leaked too. Time for replacement, whilst engine is out.
Old unit looks in great condition! :lol: :?
Image

New unit in, not yet plumbed up:
Image

Aside from that, i've replaced the throttle/gear cables (no pics) as the old ones were very, very stiff. got the CCX type so these are really smooth! I've also put in a new speedo sender, so hopefully that will work this year.

I'm now just waiting on parts for the engine, and then that can go back in and get plumbed/wired up. Hopefully be done and ready to go in next week.
The Bilge has been cleaned up a lot and now looks loads better! I will have to take a pic as the last one looks terrible!

Here's to the weather improving and a good season this year.

More to follow... 8)


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 11:47 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 11:14 pm
Posts: 287
Location: Frisco, TX
Looking good. Will be following your progress!

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2001 328 Vista

Previous Boats:
2004 Sea Ray 220 Select


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 10:13 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
Posts: 5688
Location: Long Island NY
Coming along nicely. Might want to do a few other things with the engine out:
Replace starter
Check oil pan for rust and leaks and if OK spray with corrosion x or similar
Check rear main seal for leaks
Check coupler for rubber dust and worn splines
Check exhaust Y pipe for corrosion and seal for leaks

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 2:30 am 
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Shark

Joined: Thu Dec 04, 2014 10:09 am
Posts: 138
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands (UK)
Thanks all.

Lou - valid points, and as always thanks for the input.
The oil pan is aluminium on this engine, so no need to worry about rust. I mentioned the rear seal to the mechanic who's changing the gaskets for me to save time, and they seem to think it isn't leaking, so no need to change. The front one was definitely leaking and has been changed, along with timing cover gasket and sump gasket. Engine is now back together and will be put back in on Monday morning.
I removed the Y pipe myself as i did have a small water leak - it could have been from a hose at the rear of the engine, however like you say, whilst it was out i may as well double check and change the o-ring, it makes sense!!
There was a small amount of crystallised salt below it (We boat in salt water over here) so i think it may well have had a small leak. Thankfully, the housing and O-ring groove on the Y-pipe showed no signs of corrosion so with a clean up they will be back together on Monday (With a new o-ring, of course!) The transom also seems very solid, thank goodness.

Thanks for the comments, more to follow. 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 10:59 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:10 pm
Posts: 2032
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
Jsyphil wrote:
Thanks all.

Lou - valid points, and as always thanks for the input.
The oil pan is aluminium on this engine, so no need to worry about rust. I mentioned the rear seal to the mechanic who's changing the gaskets for me to save time, and they seem to think it isn't leaking, so no need to change. The front one was definitely leaking and has been changed, along with timing cover gasket and sump gasket. Engine is now back together and will be put back in on Monday morning.
I removed the Y pipe myself as i did have a small water leak - it could have been from a hose at the rear of the engine, however like you say, whilst it was out i may as well double check and change the o-ring, it makes sense!!
There was a small amount of crystallised salt below it (We boat in salt water over here) so i think it may well have had a small leak. Thankfully, the housing and O-ring groove on the Y-pipe showed no signs of corrosion so with a clean up they will be back together on Monday (With a new o-ring, of course!) The transom also seems very solid, thank goodness.

Thanks for the comments, more to follow. 8)

Even an Aluminum Oil pan I would coat with Boeshield T-9 or Corrosion-X. As a matter of fact, I use T-9 all over the exterior of my engine...steel, aluminum, wiring, etc. Doesn't seem to harm the rubber parts either.

For the Y-pipe, I seal the mating surfaces with "Aviation Form-A-Gasket" or the OMC gasket sealer (in addition to the o-ring). Another alternative is Tef-Gel. Especially with salt water usage.

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 11:17 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 11:14 pm
Posts: 287
Location: Frisco, TX
"Even an Aluminum Oil pan I would coat with Boeshield T-9 or Corrosion-X. As a matter of fact, I use T-9 all over the exterior of my engine...steel, aluminum, wiring, etc. Doesn't seem to harm the rubber parts either."

Has anyone ever used the Boeshield T-9 to lubricate the cabin door? I wonder if it attracts much dirt?

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2001 328 Vista

Previous Boats:
2004 Sea Ray 220 Select


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 11:45 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:10 pm
Posts: 2032
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
txvista wrote:
Has anyone ever used the Boeshield T-9 to lubricate the cabin door? I wonder if it attracts much dirt?

It dries to a waxy film, so it really doesn't attract much dirt. Overspray can also be wiped away with a rag. They sell it for Mountain Bike Chains because of this.

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Image
"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 2:03 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 11:14 pm
Posts: 287
Location: Frisco, TX
How is it as lubricant though?

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2001 328 Vista

Previous Boats:
2004 Sea Ray 220 Select


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 6:55 am 
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Shark

Joined: Thu Dec 04, 2014 10:09 am
Posts: 138
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands (UK)
Thanks for the heads up, Rpengr. Y pipe is on and extra sealed, engine is now in.

I put the outdrive on yesterday, greased the U-joints, new Anodes etc. etc. and hopefully it will be going back in the water today. Will look into the Corrosion X for the oil pan too.

Image
Newly antifouled drive

More soon... 8)


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 1:56 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
Posts: 5688
Location: Long Island NY
You have clear anti fouling?
Looks great. Mine looks real rough because the stuff we can use is not really effective.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 2:34 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 21, 2012 12:44 am
Posts: 733
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Awesome...please come and do mine next. I have a free room and beer for you.

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Chris and Alicia
Las Vegas, NV
ALTIVA
1996 Four Winns 238 Vista Dlx 5.8Fi


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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2016 7:40 am 
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Shark

Joined: Thu Dec 04, 2014 10:09 am
Posts: 138
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands (UK)
Thanks Lou, not clear - Grey Antifouling, in the Volvo Penta Grey. Works to an extent but i still try and give it a scrub halfway through the season. Looks good when the boat is first dipped though!

Chris - cheers mate :lol:

Well the boat went back in and i cracked on getting everything looking nice inside etc (always never ending, isn't it?!).
Plumbed up the hot water and immersion and that's working great now.

We took a trip 2 weekends ago to Guernsey, another of the Channel Isles near to me (circa 30 miles each way) and all seemed good, got there in 1hr 20 or so which i was happy with.

On the way back we caught about 2-3kts of tide and were making great speed - were being the operative word as 10 mins from the marina the engine note changed and i recall it sounding more like a diesel engine than a petrol one, if you follow.
There was a lack of power too over 2.5K Rpm. When i slowed i realised we'd "lost" a cylinder somewhere hence the sound and power loss. There was no overheat or Oil Pressure issues, both were steady in the middle of the gauges.

We tied up and i left it a couple of days whilst i sulked and swore a bit.
On Monday i went down to sort. Took a timing gun to rule out plug leads (simple things first!).
All leads were sparking, uh-ho.
Distributor cap off, a little corrosion but nothing to affect it - and of course as mentioned at idle all leads were sparking too.

Took the plugs out, and got my compression tester out and no compression at all on No 3 cylinder (Middle cylinder on the RHS bank as looking at the engine).
Squirt of oil in the cylinder and test again, no change - exactly the same. Strange.

So i tool the risers, manifold off and altenator etc. to get to the Valve cover.
When i took it off, it became apparent why:

Image

I have never seen that before, a nut and retainer on a rocker come off? Seems strange to me. Anyhow, i got excited for a minute and put it back on to compression test, but to no avail - even with it on there wasn't any change on compression.

Looking through the exhaust port, the exhaust valve stem doesn't look too great, bit of corrosion and very mucky so i suspect it's not sealing properly at all, so i have pulled the head to clean and relap all valves in to ensure good seating etc.

Over the weekend i'll strip the head, check all valves are straight and guides aren't too worn and then next week rebuild back up.
Always something to do!!

More soon. 8)


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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2016 3:13 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
Posts: 5688
Location: Long Island NY
If I had to guess, I'm guessin' that you had some water intrusion from a leaky manifold-to-riser gasket in that cylinder, which caused the valve to stick, maybe putting pressure on that rocker shaft and nut.

Did the rocker arm stud start to pull out of the head? Is it higher than the others? This can be repaired by a good machine shop.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/u3w9g3qvuxycb ... 1.jpg?dl=0

Here's what my exhaust ports and valved looked like during the last manifold change in 2011....

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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