www.iFourWinns.com

I have a 2008 H200 with a Kicker ZX700.5 amplifier that just stopped working during our last day on the water. It is not getting power at the amp, and is wired directly to the battery switch and battery ground. I tested both wires for continuity, and the ground is good- however, the power cable is not getting 12V from the battery. Therefore, there is either a break or short in the power cable (which seems very unlikely since it runs in a corrugated plastic sheath with the ground wire- which is good), or a blown fuse (which seems very likely but I can't find it!). I'm assuming Four Winns installed an inline fuse somewhere between the amp and the battery, but I have been unable to locate it. I've checked all of the fuses under the dash and well as all of the fuses/circuit breakers in the engine compartment, and none of them pertain to the amplifier (they are all good regardless). The wiring seems to go from the amp (in the bow seat compartment in front of the helm), passes through the hole under the dash and continues under the floor, coming out in the engine bay and to the battery. I have searched every bit of wire that I can see and/or feel, but cannot locate any sort of inline fuse. Is anyone aware of where a fuse may be located for this amplifier?

Is it in the amp itself?

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

If its a fuse, it should be within 18" of the switch. It should be in the 60A to 90A range. Rather than a fuse, there may be resetable circuit breaker.

There are 3 fuses on the amp, but they are all good. Not even getting power that far anyway.

Following the cables backward from the battery/switch, there is not a fuse or breaker that I can see within about 4 feet. Thats about how much wire I can see before they are under the floor.

Your have described that you have power at the start of the wire at the switch, and no power on the same wire at the helm, and that it looses power somewhere under the floor. Seems unlikely, but if you are absolutely sure about that, then it may be time to pull the wire out (first tying a cord or wire to it so you can pull the new wire through). It's possible that somebody installed that wire using a spliced wire, and the splice gave out. Of course, if a splice separated, you won't be able to pull a cord through with it since only part of the length of wire would pull out. In that case, you would need to use the ground wire to pull a cord through, then use the cord to pull the ground wire and new positive wire back through again.

Before pulling the wire out, first just pull on it to see if it seems to be still attached from one end to the other.

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings

"Seems unlikely, but if you are absolutely sure about that, then it may be time to pull the wire out (first tying a cord or wire to it so you can pull the new wire through). It's possible that somebody installed that wire using a spliced wire, and the splice gave out."


-I had the same thoughts, but the amplifier and wiring in question here is a factory option and installed by Four Winns, so I don't think there should be any splicing in the belly. Also both the ground and power cable are routed together- zip tied into a thick corrucated plastic sheath the entire way. The ground checks good; the power cable does not. I would think that Four Winns would surely install a breaker or fuse within about two feet of the battery on this wire, but I can't find one- anywhere. Anybody know of any specific or hidden locations the factory may have installed a breaker for this amp?

Did you test for voltage at the amp or just check for continuity on the cables? Are you sure you have the amp B+ as the battery/switch end? I find it odd that there is no circuit protection at the source, on a factory installed amp.

I was able to find a 70 amp breaker in a small box next to the battery- on the deck in a very wet location which was obvious from all of the internal corrosion. I noticed this before but it didn't seem like the type of fuse/breaker you would use for an amplifier, and I thought 70 amps was way too much. Funny thing is- the Four Winns dealer shows a 90 amp breaker, and the manual for the amplifier itself recommends a 100 amp breaker! I replaced with an 80 amp breaker to be safe and moved to a higher location out of the water, and all is well. Thanks for the help.

-Matt

A breaker is actually best over a fuse, so glad thats what was used. In reality, that amp can run with only a 50A breaker depending on how many speakers its driving and how its tuned. The thing to consider when going up in breaker rating, is if the cabling can handle the increase. if the breaker exceeds the capacity of the cabling, then when theres a short, its not the breaker that goes. Boat builder are notorious for using the bare min cable size.

Good idea to relocate new breaker so future water intrusion will not be an issue.

Sounds like the breaker for the amp on my 2009 278, Just lying loose in the engine compartment. Really shoddy, lazy workmanship in my opinion. Amp breaker connected to the engine / start battery, stereo connected to the systems battery. They lost the plot in 2009.