www.iFourWinns.com

New to me, starting up the systems, having a few issues.... on the Ac/heat, doesn't Seem to be priming. Which of the drains is for it. I would like to put a hose and back flush it.... the seacock is open....

Shower has water standing. Looks like the bilge for it isn't working. Where would the fuse be? I am assuming at the helm. I can't get my fat butt in the closet to do anything to the pump. Hoping it's something easy.... fuse was blown, changed it out, I have 14.7 volts at the bilge.... it must be jammed or bad....

Electric conversion toilet not pumping water in, seacock is open.... is there a good way to prime it?

_________________
Current:
2000 Sea Ray 380 Sundancer "still Livin the Dream"

Past
2002 268 Vista 5.7 GXI "Livin' the Dream"
1996 Rinker 192 Captiva. "The Simple Life"
1999 Yamaha XLL 1200 Waverunner.
1976 Mercury Marquis tri hull 120 hp

Chris, I have changed the shower sump's automatic switch in my 268 4 times since 2011. I have never had to change the pump itself, just the switch. The switch is usually available at marine stores. Here is a link for the switch:
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/attwood- ... oC36bw_wcB

The switch may have a top cover like in the following link:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Attwood-Floa ... r/14150758
This is the same switch as the previous link once you remove the cover.

The shower sump is a little "fun" to get access to, but it can be done. I find it easiest to remove the sump box to work on it. To remove the closet's floor plate you might have to loosen or remove the 1 x 1 wood strip attaching the back wall to the floor. The sump box is held in place with a velcro strap. There are 2 hoses on the front edge. With A/C you may have a 3rd hose for condensation from the A/C unit. Loosen the 2 hose clamps and slide the hoses off. Unplug the wiring harness, loosen the velcro strap, and work the hoses and wires in the compartment to remove the sump box.

Switches are usually in the $25-30 category, but these switches don't seem to last long.

A replacement sump pump and box assembly is $125+. The sump box is approximately 8 inches wide and 11 inches long. There is a larger one that is about 11 inches square, but you probably will NOT be able to get it to fit.

Some of the past posts had referred to using a household toilet plunger on the A/C cooling overboard line to help prime it.

_________________
Surface Interval: A scuba diving term for that time between dives to relax and prepare for life's next great adventure.

Current boat: '02 FW 268 Vista
Previous boat: '95 FW 190 Horizon

Thanks Gary! Those white hoses that run directly over the center is gonna make this a bear.... great info! I will try to get it out, going to work on it in the morning. I guess I will order 2 of the switches since it seems like they last only a year or 2. I don't have a shop vac, heck I don't have much here, I am guessing I will soak up the water in the shower well with a towel... pita



Do you know which drain is for the AC. I am guessing port side... It looks like the one most aft is for the self draining cockpit floor drain, same with the one most forward. I am assuming the second from aft is my baby, thinking of putting the garden hose to it.... no plunger....

Thanks again!

_________________
Current:
2000 Sea Ray 380 Sundancer "still Livin the Dream"

Past
2002 268 Vista 5.7 GXI "Livin' the Dream"
1996 Rinker 192 Captiva. "The Simple Life"
1999 Yamaha XLL 1200 Waverunner.
1976 Mercury Marquis tri hull 120 hp

Yeah, you do need to massage, finesse, and talk to it in "official nautical terms" at times to get everything out of the way in one direction or the other. Its not a bad idea to buy 2 switches at a time.

You just might end up dumping the water out of the shower sump as you remove it. The water will drain into the forward bilge and can be soaked up there.

I don't have A/C, so I'm not sure. The intake should be through the bottom of the hull, and the outlet should be on the port side. With the engine hatch open you should be able to see the cockpit drain ports and the A/C outlet. You could try the garden hose to fill the outlet, but you might have more luck with suction on the outlet to draw water through.

_________________
Surface Interval: A scuba diving term for that time between dives to relax and prepare for life's next great adventure.

Current boat: '02 FW 268 Vista
Previous boat: '95 FW 190 Horizon

To prime your AC, find the water discharge thru-hull fitting. I would run a garden hose to the discharge in essence backflushing the AC. That work for me to prime my AC on my 248.

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-Tony
2016 Robalo R200 w/Yahama 200!

Previous boats:
2003 Four Winns 248 Vista - sold
1994 Sunbird Corsair 200 - sold
1980 Checkmate Predictor - sold

That sounds like the one! Mine is the second one on the port side heaading forward from the stern. I usually jam the hose on it for 10 seconds till the air comes out the bottom of the boat, then switch the ac on and see if it worked. Sometimes it takes a couple tries. Good luck

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Our Boating Blog: http://ben-dana.blogspot.com/

2005 268 Vista "Sea Pickle II"
1979 AMF Alcort Puffer
Previous:
2003 FW190 Horizon
1973 Startcraft 18ft "Sea Pickle"

Does your toilet use the seacock or do you have the tank under your mid cabin that holds the flushing water? Ours has the tank under the mid cabin and once filled from the deck fitting it self primes. Those electric conversion kits came with an inline filter that was usually mounted behind the toilet, might be worth checking

_________________
Our Boating Blog: http://ben-dana.blogspot.com/

2005 268 Vista "Sea Pickle II"
1979 AMF Alcort Puffer
Previous:
2003 FW190 Horizon
1973 Startcraft 18ft "Sea Pickle"

Thanks for all the suggestions!

On the toilet, I filled it from the sink, and drained it a few times, I guess that out some water on the diaphragm of the pump, I got a little water to flow, kept doing it til it works (at least I think) as designed

On the ac, tried the plunger, didn't seem to do much, pushed the hose through the outlet (that was it Bliss, thank you!) and it would dribble, pulled the screen out, looked pretty clean, but had a few pieces of whatever in it. Cleaned it loosened the housing and let water flow out, tightened, like magic, heat and AC work great!

So, down to this shower bilge pump..... say a prayer for the big man )

_________________
Current:
2000 Sea Ray 380 Sundancer "still Livin the Dream"

Past
2002 268 Vista 5.7 GXI "Livin' the Dream"
1996 Rinker 192 Captiva. "The Simple Life"
1999 Yamaha XLL 1200 Waverunner.
1976 Mercury Marquis tri hull 120 hp

So, getting the shower bilge box out reminds me of watching child birth.... can't imagine that it's gonna be easy getting it back in there.... I removed the closet which def made it better. Switch is bad, along with the bilge pump.... cut the float switch out, tested, no go.... decided to splice the pump wires that went to the switch. Plugged the bilge in, blew the fuse... so ordering them both

Gary, the second switch you posted the link to. Is that the same as what is in the engine for the main bilge pump? Also, any idea what is the replacement pump in the bilge, struggling to find the correct Atwood v750

Thanks again!

_________________
Current:
2000 Sea Ray 380 Sundancer "still Livin the Dream"

Past
2002 268 Vista 5.7 GXI "Livin' the Dream"
1996 Rinker 192 Captiva. "The Simple Life"
1999 Yamaha XLL 1200 Waverunner.
1976 Mercury Marquis tri hull 120 hp

Yes, I believe that link is for the same float switch as the one in the engine compartment.
The Four Winns parts catalog has the following Attwood 1250 gph bilge pump:

PUMP, V1250 BILGE #421251 (UNI) NLA (no longer available) from 1998-2002

After August 2002 they used this Rule pump and switch:
PUMP, BILGE 1100 R 27DV-40 W/40 SWTH UML (8/12/2002 - Present)

This comes from the "Hull Hardware" section of the online 268 parts catalog.

The 500 gph bilge pump is for the forward bilge.

If desired, you should be able to convert to an appropriately sized newer style Attwood automatic bilge pump in either bilge, or you should be able to get the original style pump from marine supply retailers or on ebay. Just remember to wire it so the pump can work automatically as well as with the helm switch.

"...watching child birth..." I'm thinking you will have to get more involved than that............ You do need to see what works best as far as moving wires and hoses one way or the other, but it does work, at least mine did....a few times now.

_________________
Surface Interval: A scuba diving term for that time between dives to relax and prepare for life's next great adventure.

Current boat: '02 FW 268 Vista
Previous boat: '95 FW 190 Horizon

Thanks ,gary, I am struggling with the shower bilge pump, have you replaced it?
So the Attwood v750 has been obsolete for a while.... so I bought a new shower box, problem was the size. The 750 gph is rare in the size box that was oem (attwood 4142). I can't imagine adding 3" to it and squeezing it back in there.... so, I had to go with the Attwood 4141 model which has a 500 gmh which is about 8.33 gpm, I think it's plenty....

I appreciate this board more than you guys can realize, all of you contribute so much to newbies like me, thank you!

_________________
Current:
2000 Sea Ray 380 Sundancer "still Livin the Dream"

Past
2002 268 Vista 5.7 GXI "Livin' the Dream"
1996 Rinker 192 Captiva. "The Simple Life"
1999 Yamaha XLL 1200 Waverunner.
1976 Mercury Marquis tri hull 120 hp

Chris,
Man, I wish I would have seen this over the weekend? You should have come down and looked for me, I could have helped you with most of those issues! Myself, or your neighbor Don, would have been glad to offer help! Board is a great place for answers, but, due to it's nature, can be some delay on a day when you're hoping to get things rolling. Just keep those options in your mind for the future!

Jason

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2004 Four Winns 328 Vista
1997 Larson Cabrio 290 - sold
1988 Rinker Fiesta Vee 248 - sold

Thanks Jason, while I was working on it Saturday late afternoon, I heard Char mention "jason and Holly", seemed like they were talking about socializing and maybe a few cocktails. Don and Char are going to be great to have at the next slip. I figured it isn't nice to ease drop, so I just kept plugging away on the boat ...

Everyone on the Dock was super nice. I had a very productive weekend, should have the new float switch for the bilge and new shower sump with auto bilge here on Wednesday. Planning on going up Thursday night and putting it back together Friday. This is really a relief. I have been wondering and worrying about the boats systems all winter, now that they will all be functiong for a little more than $150.... you going to be around Friday or Saturday?

_________________
Current:
2000 Sea Ray 380 Sundancer "still Livin the Dream"

Past
2002 268 Vista 5.7 GXI "Livin' the Dream"
1996 Rinker 192 Captiva. "The Simple Life"
1999 Yamaha XLL 1200 Waverunner.
1976 Mercury Marquis tri hull 120 hp

Yes, we should be around by early Friday evening. I have what I believe to be a Fuel Filter issue, so I may try to get down there straight after work Friday, ahead of the wife getting off, to try and get that taken care of.

_________________


2004 Four Winns 328 Vista
1997 Larson Cabrio 290 - sold
1988 Rinker Fiesta Vee 248 - sold

I will look for you, E dock, correct?

_________________
Current:
2000 Sea Ray 380 Sundancer "still Livin the Dream"

Past
2002 268 Vista 5.7 GXI "Livin' the Dream"
1996 Rinker 192 Captiva. "The Simple Life"
1999 Yamaha XLL 1200 Waverunner.
1976 Mercury Marquis tri hull 120 hp