markt wrote:
Lou ,
Thank you so much. I was just talking about you to my wife as we were hauling the boat up to St. Joe Michigan this morning. We bought the boat in the fall of 2013 and you were very helpful with information, and suggestions as we were fixing it up back then. I forgot my password so had to re-register so I have lost all that history.
In any case I'm not happy with the marina that put the new rear end on in the fall of 2015. I'd have to check hours but i'm guessing we have put only between 30-50 hours MAX on the boat since this was done. The marina's mechanic said the seals are bad and water got into the lower unit and there was no oil. Should this have happened that fast with so little use ? You have been a great source of info for many people here so your thought would be appreciated.
Thanks so much Mark
This really should not happen, I had my old '88 Cobra re-sealed back in 2004/2005 and it still is fine. I did an oil analysis a few years back (Blackstone) and there was zero water in the oil. And as Ray said, if seals were leaking usually you will see a sheen in the water, but not always. In some cases the seals leak under pressure (in this case you'd see a sheen) but in others, it is under vacuum, so when the drive is used in the water and then cools off, water can actually be drawn into the drive. That is why mechanics should test drive seals to make sure that they don't leak under pressure or vacuum. When doing the yearly drive oil change I'd take some of the oil I drained and put it in a clear container to see if a layer of water appeared on the bottom. I did have to split the upper and lower drive units because I was getting marine growth inside the water intake area (salt water boat, barnacles growing in there) and just put it together with new o ring seals, no leaks afterward. Sometimes a sealing surface may be eroded by corrosion and then it is difficult to get the gasket to seal, unless the surface can be re-surfaced carefully so the gasket will seal. Also using OMC gasket sealer where it is specified by the shop manual really helps. I also use it on all the bolt threads on the outdrive and this helps them to not seize up due to salt water use.....
I hope you can easily find the parts and get it back on the water this season!
look at this:
http://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/1121.cfmhttp://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-ev ... mdl=JAGGIChttp://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-ev ... mdl=JAGGICPS I looked up your engine/drive on the Crowley Marine website, if it is really a '94 power package (keep in mind that a boat that is a '94 could have a '93 power package), it looks like the drive is the joint venture drive that OMC and Volvo produced together, which later became the SX Cobra. So you should be able to get Volvo parts to fit this drive. This would not be the case if it was the pure OMC design cone clutch drive which was also produced at the same time, which is why many people are confused about parts availability. If you can post up some pix of your drive I can tell for sure then.
I looked back one year to '93 and it seems that OMC did not use the GM 5.7 in '93 (they used the GM 5.0 and the Ford 5.
so it may be that your engine really is a '94.
The best way to tell is to post up your OMC model #, it is usually on a sticker on the valve cover or thermostat housing and will start with a 57 (5.7 liter)...
When people hear King Cobra, they assume its the 90-93 OMC Cone Clutch drive.
but OMC called many things the KC
example
5.7 engine with normal Cobra drive and thru the transom exhaust
7.5 engine with normal Cobra upper drive and larger V8 outboard lower unit
5.7 with Joint Venture drive (OMC/Volvo)
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