OK guys I'll be around for you all!
Anyway...winterizing....here's my take....you are fresh water boaters...so internal corrosion is not a major issue like for me....so...as long as you really drain...get down in the bilge and poke those hoses....you should be good. If you want to use antifreeze...my suggestions:
1) do NOT use those suck the AF up the drive kits, what can happen is you start with an engine full of water from running on the water hose. Then you hook up the tank and AF....and expect it to get into the engine...what happens is....it will go out the exhaust...and if the thermostat does not open all the way...and it may not on a cool fall day....you exhaust will be full of AF and the engine, still has mostly raw water in it...this can lead to a cracked block! The only ways around this are to drain it first...(only have to drain the block) or remove the thermostat.
I prefer to:
fully drain manually, poke holes, disconnect hoses etc. Then, I put OMC gasket sealer or similar (Merc Perfect seal, Permatex gasket sealer) on the threads of the plugs and replace. Then I use either:
-100 marine antifreeze (if I'm lazy and don't mind spending the cash on it) or
Mix up 4 gallons of Sierra brand PG antifreeze
and manually fill the engine and manifolds with AF.
I do not use the -50 or -60 because....I tested it in the freezer...they both get hard (but don't expand) at zero in the freezer. I wanted a bigger margin of safety for this application.
2) about the alignment...it may be just fine...if its off...you can watch you tube vids on how to do it...or find a good mechanic and just pay them to get it exactly right...you will probably never have to do it again on a boat with solid engine mount pads and transom
3) drive R+R....yes build the stand....the Volvo drive...is close to 100 lbs....you don't want to be trying to balance this thing on the skeg and try to get it back on. That will be a bad day for you!
4) bellows replacement....you will have an easier time if you remove the pivot housing...this way you can make sure that the gimble housing end..is fully on the flange...I replace the bellows when I see small cracks between the folds....if you can keep the drive down...they can last as long as 10 years. On the Volvo...because it does not use a gasket between the pivot and drive...coat both mating surfaces with OMC triple guard grease....that way it will not get corroded on which can happen even in fresh water.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qn3zrg0ruzwz2 ... l.jpg?dl=0