www.iFourWinns.com

Anyone have an opinion on using non-Volvo parts on a Volvo engine? Potentially need to replace a starter and alternator. Are the Volvo parts really worth the price? Are after market parts risky to use? If using non-Volvo parts, what brands are safe? My boat/engines are out of warranty.

I can't say all parts are a good idea as some are not as good a quality as OEM but a starter and alternator is fine to use aftermarket. Do not use an electrical automotive part. They are not ignition proof. I used a Mercury starter on my last boat with a Volvo 5.7. Just make sure it's the correct mounting style so bring the old starter with you to match. I am sure there are more variations of alternators so you will have to cross reference it.
I have also had ok luck with Sierra brand parts.
Again, some parts are just not as good as OEM like exhaust parts but others are fine. I had a sierra starter on the same Volvo 5.7 and it worked fine but was not painted like the original or the Mercury replacement. I guess paint was the reason Volvo wanted twice the price.

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--2002 3880 Regal Flybridge | Twin Merc 8.1HO **Seven**
--2003 AB 13 VST Console Inflatable | Tohatsu 40hp TLDI **Phish'n ski**
--310 Mercury Inflatable | 1982 9.9 Johnson

Remember that VP or Merc do not make many of these parts, they source them from venders and then charge you 2x what they pay the vendor. Starters or alternators you can use ARCO, tune-up parts like spark plugs AC Delco marine, dist cap/wires you can use Sierra. The only things that VP and Merc really make are the drive and transom mounts, engine brackets needed for accessories, some components in the fuel system needed for marine use, etc. Late model Merc engines are now manufactured by Merc and guess what, these are VERY similar to the GM designs used in the past but parts prices are 2-3x as much. Looks like they got it rigged to make money in the short run but their pricing policies will ultimately drive away smart customers who will transition to outboards in smaller boats. Outboard parts are expensive but at least you get something for that!

I had to laugh when I saw in a Volvo catalog on line the price they have the gall to charge for a Holley 4 bbl carb...$900.... for something you can buy right from Holley’s website for less than $500 on sale...case closed...they are crooks!

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Totally agree Lou. But I would say the Mercury starter was slightly different in the fact that it was painted for about the same price as an aftermarket starter.

So far it seems like the only sterndrive that's 100% mercury is the v6 and it's been out for a few years. I wonder if they are just testing the waters, so to speak, before they change the full line either way. It would seem the rnd on an engine would not be cost effective given the amount they sell and the recent decline in sterndrives.
I also always wondered why they don't convert outboard engines to sterndrive. Instead of outsourcing a GM block use their own blocks but change the orientation. Most of the parts should be interchangeable. The only obvious difference is outboards generally have smaller displacement for the same hp. Maybe not as beneficial in a heavy boat.

OP, sorry for the derail...

_________________
--2002 3880 Regal Flybridge | Twin Merc 8.1HO **Seven**
--2003 AB 13 VST Console Inflatable | Tohatsu 40hp TLDI **Phish'n ski**
--310 Mercury Inflatable | 1982 9.9 Johnson

I think the reason why they never converted OB engines to sterndrive was cost, and practicality. The OBs are designed for vertical orientation, at that point, they could have simply used a Honda or Suzuki V6 or 4 cyl car/truck engine and just made closed cooling standard due to the all aluminum construction. The auto based GM engines probably cost half as much which was a huge advantage to Merc/Volvo cost wise.
They actually tried to mate a 2 stroke outboard engine to a sterndrive, it was called the Force L drive and was not really successful. Used on some Bayliners in the 80s.

And still, there are designed in disadvantages of I/Os. Such as poor engine access, more maintenance caused by the need to remove the drive every season to check the bellows, much more likelihood of leaks through the transom mount as the boat gets older, etc.

Given that I/Os now approach the complexity and cost of outboards, there is really no good reason to stick with I/Os. The outboard performs better, is much easier to winterize, is safer in a few very important ways
no fumes in the bilge
no cooling hoses in the engine compartment that can leak and fill the bilge with seawater
overheats won't burn exhaust hoses and cause water to flood in
better shallow water operation

I/Os made sense when they were simple and cheap (standard GM marine engines with carbs, and NO cat converter exhaust). Now they are neither, with all the same designed in disadvantages.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Great, thank you all.

As others have said, starter and alternator should be 'marine rated'. They usually cost 4x the times of an automotive unit that will fit and work (albeit very dangerous, do not do this! I personally know someone who has had it go kaboom). You also have another option. Unbolt said 'dead' marine motor and take it to a local rebuild shop. In most cases, they can clean the windings and get these working great again. I once did this for a marine unit and saved a boatload of cash.

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2007 FW Horizon 200 5.0GXi/SX-A

Thanks.

Marine starters and alternators use metal screens that function as a flame arrester. So if vapors got into a starter or alternator and got ignited the metal screen pulls the heat out of the reaction and prevents it from igniting the rest of vapors that may be in the bilge. Look in the bottom of a marine distributor body and you’ll see the same thing. A metal screen in the bottom and gasket on the distributor cap.
And BTW good quality marine aftermarket electrical parts are not even 2x the price of regular automotive parts. I’ve paid $150-175 for marine starters and alternators. I use what most marine mechanics around here use, ARCO.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II