www.iFourWinns.com

I have yet to order my new sending unit but I sure have looked over the situation and have been scratching my head as to how that big hunk of rubber/plastic would get "fished" through the transom! I'll have to pull it apart to get the full picture in my head but it is much clearer now. Thanks Graham! Will it be obvious how the connectors get removed from the plug?

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Marc, Kathlin & Nathalie


'89 Chaparral Laser 32

'93 Vista 245, 5.8L w/ King Cobra

Former Boats
'01 H260, 7.4 VP Duoprop
'98 H200, 5.0 GL w/VP SX drive

VP naturally specify the use of a "special tool" to remove the old pins/ install the new (P/N 3854350-0 and 3854349-0 respectively, or OMC 322699 and 322697). The removal tool basically has to depress a tab to allow the pins to be removed. The refitting tool pushes on the connector body, rather than on the cable crimp. They recomend the application of rubbing alcohol to make fitting the new ones easier ( plus waterproof grease on the rubber plug in the transom).

Unless you can find something to do the jobs of the special tools without potentially damaging the plug, it might just be easier to cut the cables some 3 -4" from the connector and use crimps with heat shrink sleeve to connect the new to the old.

It's important that the cable at the outdirve end has enough slack to allow for movement without getting strained.

Graham

Since I am having a difficult time vizualizing the plug you are referring to this may be no help but I dismantled the helm harness plug (I.E. removed wires from the harness without damaging the plastic housing or the crimped on pins/sleeves of the wires) just so I could clean up and eliminate uneccessary wires but wanted the save them in case I decided to revert to factory.
It really is not as difficult as it would appear but I spent a fair amount of time re-wiring a couple of early 300zx's to convert them from the rediculous digital dashboards to the analogue. Principal was the same - dismantle the plugs from the wires without damage and switching with other wires or changing placement on the harness block. It was no different for the FW harness but the female side pins (male plug) is easier than the male pins (female plug). The male pins (female plug) required the plug be dismantled. I used only a jewlers flathead screwdriver - the type that would be suitable to work screws on eyeglasses.
If I remember right the rubber grommet just pries out. Then there is a plastic "backer" inside the plug is held with clips on the sides. Insert driver on each side to unclip and wiggle out. The wire pins are each held with a tiny plastic hook (big time caution here if it breaks the plug housing is NFG).
If this makes any sense at all or if you are determined to attempt but would like pics to clarify I could probably pull the harness plug this weekend and do something up. It really is fairly easy once you know where the "clips and hooks" are.

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2008 Four Winns 210 5.7 GI/SX
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 Crew
1966 Fed-Up Wife

I've no doubt the 2 (or in some cases 3) connectors can be removed from the plug using something like a jewellers screwdriver. It doesn't really matter if the old connectors or cable are damaged, as long as the plug itself isn't damaged and it's body retains the new connectors properly (if it doesn't, there's a risk of the connector coming loose inside the plug I suppose; it sits on the engine and is subject to vibration).

Graham

I have a 2000 Vista 268 with a 5.7 Gsi with a DP-SM drive. I have had the boat for 3 seasons know and have gone through 2 trim sensors. The problem I have is the wiring coming out of the sensor on the drive itself. Due to the tight quarters and the way it is zip-lock tied to the transom assembly, the wire breaks open which resulted in errratic guage operation (particularly when you turn the steering wheel) since it is grounding out against the gimbal housing. It is a poor design and a pain to replace so I just unplugged it in the engine compartment. Someday I will figure out a solution. I trim based on engine sound, RPM's, speed, etc. I think Volvo needs to do a redesign of the sensor wires, provide longer leads or some type of protection. I can also assure yyou that the bare wire in the water does not help at all with outdrive corrosion. I had a corrosion issue on the outdrive and when I changed the sensor the 1st time it went away. After the 2nd sensor went bad, I disconnected it and have has no further corrosion issues. Think about it, a bare wire in the water connected to the boats electrical system spells problems. Good luck to all.

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2000 268 Vista

I just got mine adjusted as best as I can. It reads properly when it the down and up position, and seems to in between as well. When putting the drive in the up position from full down the needle jumps around a bit, then settles back down. I found the sender for $52 online....but will try it like this for a while and see how it goes.

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

Hi Guys,

Can anyone tell me where the sensor would be on a 1999 Sundowner 205 with a 5.0 GL Volvo Penta?

As my sensor just says the outdrive is always up!

Rob

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Rob Sherry
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1999 Sundowner 205

Rob,

It's on the starboard side, a circular part 2" in diameter bolted to the gimbal ring by 2 small bolts, with crescent shaped washers. The actuator locates in the head of the pivot pin. (on the opposite port side, you'll just see a hole with the head of the pivot pin visible). If it's still operational/ the wiring is still intact, the drive needs to be fully down when adjusting it and you can either adjust it using the gauge or a multimeter attached to the harness inside the engine compartment ( target 11+/- 1 Ohm).

Graham

Took it out again...and its all jacked up. New sending unit here we come!

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

Thanks for the information on the location of the sensor,

took it off a few days ago and it seems to be all corroded and one of the wires has corroded through,

have a new sensor on order, seems like reading from above, that it is almost best to keep a spare in stock!!

Rob

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Rob Sherry
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1999 Sundowner 205

Which part # did you order? I can get #3863007 for $50, the newer part # 3849411 is $120.

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

I found out part #3863129 is the correct part # for boats that do not have a trim limit unit in them. Should make for a fun day tomorrow....

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

I feel sort of dumb asking, but a dumb question is one not asked right? How do I locate the trim sender on my lower unit? I've looked before, not really sure what I was looking for and didn't find it. I am also having issues, since the boat was new, with the way my trim gauge is reading. Can the adjustment be done solo or do I need a helper? Someone operating the trim switch at the throttle and reading the guage while I make adjustments at the sender/LU end? Any pictures?
Oh.....it's a VP/SX drive.

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2008 H210SS VP 5.7 Gi/SX
2011 Ford F150 FX4 EB

If you go to the doug russell site
http://www.dougrussell.com

Look in volvo parts and they have diagrams of the drive and transom assembly. You can buy it from them too. I have gotten some of my Cobra parts from them over the years.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

The trim sender can be adjusted by yourself, on the water (shallow enough that you can stand, but deep enough that you can trim the drive down) or on the trailer (again in a spot where you can trim the drive down and have the boat relatively level. With the drive down, just simply loosen the two hex screws that are securing the sender, then turn the key in the on position (try to ignore the anoying beeper) then turn the sending unit clockwise or counter clockwise until the needle on the gauge is where you need it to be. Once you are happy, tighten the nuts!

Sorry, I don't have access to the good picture that I have of sender, but this picture is from another boat with the same drives (that had to be replaced, sorry for stealing the picture!). The sender is missing, but the red arrow shows the location of the sender. The sender looks like a black disk with some wires coming out of it. Very easy to get at.

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2009 H180 w/3.0 Merc
Homebuilt Minimax Hydro
2011 Zodiac Cadet 310