winterizing

Fatboy00 · **Joined:** Mon Sep 22, 2008 10:40 am **Posts:** 1

I have a '95 Horizon190. Anyone have any tips on winterizing besides disconnecting and draining the hoses and filling with n/toxic antifreeze? Is there an easier way?

robbo3 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 22, 2008 10:38 pm

Have someone else do it :mrgreen:

General things that are included in my end of year service are:
Oil & Filter change
Pull drive, check alignment, & service
Stabilize fuel
Fog Engine
Fill w/ Anti-freeze
Inspection for service points in Spring if necessary

Having all of the work done now leaves it ready to go in the spring.

Many others do it themselves here, but I'm not willing to pay the price of missing something by doing it myself.

ardy · **Posted:** Mon Sep 22, 2008 11:45 pm

Live in South Australia winterizing is unheard of here due to mild winters
hehe
Ardy
South Oz

LouC · **Posted:** Tue Sep 23, 2008 6:01 am

No there is not. DO NOT use the suck the Antifreeze up the drive kits. You will not know for sure if the thermo opened and if not the block will still have water in it. Then in the spring you will be asking about the water spurting out the side of your motor and the milky stuff in the oil. NO SHORTCUTS! Drain like the manual says, and back fill with -100 if you want to use AF.

Been doing it myself for the 6 seasons we have this boat, the whole job takes me about 3 hrs. After I'm done I remove the drive for the winter and check out the bellows, ujionts and gimble. That way any repairs I can't do can get done over the winter.

230 Mike · **Posted:** Wed Sep 24, 2008 1:28 pm

Lou, you use the green stuff? How do you recover and/or get rid of it in the spring?

LouC · **Posted:** Wed Sep 24, 2008 4:22 pm

No use the -100 no tox stuff, because it gives the best freeze protection and has corrosion inhibitors. When you start the engine in the spring, first you can drain it in the bilge with the plug in, {TURN THE BATTERY OFF SO THE AUTO BILGE SWITCH DOES NOT SHOOT THE AF OUT THE SIDE OF THE BOAT, ALL OVER YOUR HOUSE} then put a drain pan under the plug (better hold 5-6 gallons) and then take out the plug and drain it in the pan. You could then re-use it if you want. It is 13 bucks a gallon! You could try draining the mainfolds and blocks into gallon containers but it's going to go all over the bilge anyway. When I do this I fill the motor up with water (manifolds and raw water intake too) so that the engine gets water right away and does not get air-locked. This way you do not run the AF out on the driveway. I do think the corrosion inhibitors help, esp in a salt water area. It is a well known fact that cast iron exposed to salt water will rust faster when removed from salt water and exposed to air. For sure the next engine will be closed cooled.

230 Mike · **Posted:** Wed Sep 24, 2008 4:35 pm

LouC wrote:

...TURN THE BATTERY OFF SO THE AUTO BILGE SWITCH DOES NOT SHOOT THE AF OUT THE SIDE OF THE BOAT, ALL OVER YOUR HOUSE...

There's got to be a story here. Thanks, Lou. I agree about the corrosion inhibitors, which is why I'm averse to the cheap pink stuff.

LouC · **Posted:** Wed Sep 24, 2008 9:20 pm

Yep tested the auto bilge switch (this is a moored in salt water 6 months boat, it's gotta work) and it squirted bilge water on the house, luckily my better half was not there at the time!

Chalk · **Posted:** Sat Oct 04, 2008 3:45 pm

You should at least check your gear lube for water, change it if necessary. Add stabilizer to the gas first, then I run the engine to temp on the hose using muffs, then switch over to -100 antifreeze without ever shutting off the engine, pump it right into the muffs using an electric pump. 5 gallons and done. If you use the non-toxic stuff you can stick the thing right in the water in the spring and start it right up. Now is a good time to change your engine oil if necessary too. On mid year 2000 volvos and up and 98 and up mercs the ujoints are not greasable so pulling the drive every year is not a necessity. I usually recommend every 4 years or so.

KSJ08 · **Posted:** Tue Oct 07, 2008 12:52 pm

How about running to temp on muffs,draining by removing all the plugs, then put O/D in cut down 55 gal plastic drum W/-100 anti freeze in it to suck thru intake? Other wise how do you guys fill the block & other components W/-100???

Txjole2 · **Posted:** Tue Oct 07, 2008 3:45 pm

What engine and drive should be the first thing that is asked.

KSJ8 · **Posted:** Tue Oct 07, 2008 6:49 pm

Merc. 4.3L 190hp

millhaven_nice_guy · **Posted:** Wed Oct 08, 2008 2:07 pm

KSJ08 wrote:

How about running to temp on muffs,draining by removing all the plugs, then put O/D in cut down 55 gal plastic drum W/-100 anti freeze in it to suck thru intake? Other wise how do you guys fill the block & other components W/-100???

Way too much antifreeze would be required to get the level above the suction point! Draining the block and the manifolds is the easy part. you need to follow every hose that comes off your thermostat housing and know where each of those goes. They need to be individually drained and backfilled with some antifreeze. I learned this the hard way! See this thread

http://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2020

I was scared and rightly so! But the problem was caused by me not taking the time to be fully informed about how to winterize this particular boat.

Anything can be done by a DIY'er but make sure you are confident it is done right and be willing to suffer the consequences if it is not done right (as well as the $ involved with fixing it)

KSJ8 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 08, 2008 6:24 pm

I was also thinking of taking a 5 gal bucket putting a hose fitting in the bottom,seal it, then connect short hose to the muffs.Put in 3-5 gal of -100 AF run the eng till I see the AF coming out of the exhaust.This would be after I had it warmed up W/fresh water.Any thoughts on this? Other wise you guys just drain by removing all the plugs,remove the water pump hoses & back fill W/AF.

millhaven_nice_guy · **Posted:** Wed Oct 08, 2008 7:07 pm

Most people do the bucket or funnel on muffs routine. It works but the antifreeze solution tends to get diluted by the water in the block. I tried this method last year with the H200 I had and found that I ended up with more antifreeze on the ground than in the motor (poor muff seal). In the end I took off the hoses and filled them up. From what I am reading here, the best way is to drain everything and then backfill with antifreeze! But... Do it whatever way you see fit and be prepared for the consequences if you screw up. If you are not confident enough then just pay a dealer to do it. Any marina or dealer should have staff that can winterize for you. They charge $100.00 at a local marina I spoke to last week. BTW, I just found out that my insurance will cover a cracked block if I have a receipt saying that it was winterized... so I may take it somewhere and have it done .... NOT! Last year taught me all I need to know about winterizing!!!

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winterizing

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