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 Post subject: Changing out drive oil
PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 12:00 pm 
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McLovin

Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 2:09 am
Posts: 241
Ok So I have never changed my outdrive oil and it looks as good as it did from day1. but with 120 hours I think I should definately change it. The book says to pump it in from the same hole you drain it. My question is what is wrong with just filling it through the hole I check it in. Also if I do need to fill it through the hole that I drain it from is there a special pump I need or will any do? I have a 3.0l Gl with the single prop volvo drive.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 12:37 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 12:31 pm
Posts: 2108
Location: Chester, UK
You need to fill it from the bottom so it pushes any air out, rather than trapping it in there. It also takes a loooooooong time to pour the oil in at the top and rely on gravity! You can buy a pumps that screw onto the top of the bottles that the oil comes in ( I bought mine at Walmart many years ago, on my first visit to Florida; I then had to make an adapter to get it to fit my DPS drive when I got home ! ). I'm sure someone has posted a part number for the official DPS adapter on a previous thread. The thread on the DPS drain plug is M10 x 1.5. The single prop SX may well be different, I remember reading on another forum that the SX threaded pipe won't work on a DPS; so maybe the SX is the same as on a Mercruiser etc and a standard pump/ pipe might fit..

Before you remove the pump, replace the plug and dipstick, as this minimises the oil that will leak out as you're replacing the drain plug. You should replace the O-rings on plugs you have removed.

The upper housing on both the SX and DPS is the same, there is actually a round plug on it that can be removed and you fill the drive up with oil until it starts to come out of the hole, you need to remove the rear plastic cover to get access to it.

The later SX drives ( 2006/7 onwards) may well be different in their layout.

Graham


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 1:13 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 8:53 pm
Posts: 157
Location: Sarasota, Florida
I just ordered one, VP 3887693 around $15.00. I saw the one at Walmart after I ordered mine. Looks simular. Read the application chart on the package.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 2:31 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2007 9:02 am
Posts: 616
Location: Miami, FL
Depending on the drive you may require and adapter for your pump. My dp drive required one.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 3:13 pm 
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Sting Ray

Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 9:22 pm
Posts: 66
Location: Stouffville Ontario
I just bought the VP pump,it fits the VP oil bottles.I hate trying to fool around to save a few dollars.Oil changes are a must every fall just to ensure there is no water in the lower unit,at least here in the Great White North. :lol:

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 5:14 pm 
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Location: Chester, UK
Yes, I bought the Walmart one when I was wide eyed and innocent and thought there must be a marine industry wide standard way of doing things. How wrong I was!

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 6:28 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Fri Feb 02, 2007 12:59 am
Posts: 16
Location: Michigan
I have used the cheap plastic hand pump that you guys are talking about, the one that screws on to the top of the bottle. There is a better way, It's more expensive but I think it's worth it. Go to http://www.stevensinstrument.com. they have a gear filler, basically it's a pressure pot. Put your gear lube in. Pump it up. It has a hose with quick disconnect fitting and a shut off valve right at the fitting. Screw in the right adapter into the lower filler hole on the drive. Connect the hose with the quick disconnect and then open the valve. When the gear lube starts to come out of the air vent, (the one under the plastic cover), shut the valve off. Install the air vent plug. pull the hose off at the quick disconnect. Then quickly remove the adapter and put in the lower plug. It's quick and easy and you don't get any air hung up in the drive where it shouldn't be. Plus the gear filler is made of steal. It will last a lifetime. I have also bought the vacume tester and the pressure tester. You can test the vacume and pressure to make sure there are no air leaks in any of the seals on the drive. Like I said. it's definitly more expensive but it will last a life time and will give you peace of mind to know you did the job right. Stevens instrument also has all the adapters for all the different drives.

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