www.iFourWinns.com

I just started up my engine in the drive after connecting up the charged batteries.

First issue I noticed; the blower runs in the off position, but the light only comes on when it is switched to the on position ( but the blower then stops)

No instruments work.

Nothing attached to the main fusebox works.

The engine started second turn of the key and runs nicely, so the ignition switch is getting power.

I switched the ignition key to off; the engine carried on running.

I pulled the kill cord out; the engine carries on running

The only way I could stop it was to pull the 12V connector off the coil pack.

Has anyone any idea what is going on?

Engine is a 2004 5.7GXi

Graham

I would check the various ground wires first. It sounds like too many strange problems to be an equipment failure. Check what is common to all the electrical devices.

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2004 230 Horizon
5.7GI/SX
Towed by a 2000 Expedition

Agreed, that sounds like a short. I'd start with the main negative cable mounted to the engine block and work my way to the helm from there.

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Paul
2007 Four Winns Horizon 220
Mercruiser 350 Mag MPI w/ Bravo III Drive
2004 Ford Explorer Limited (V8-AWD)
Pomme de Terre Lake (Southwest Missouri)

Thanks, I'm part way through doing that. 13.4 V between the batteries and the block ground point, plus to the alternator so grounding of items on the engine is not the issue.. But only 9.2V at the ignition switch! So something is causing a pretty big voltage drop.

So, I'm jury rigging a negative lead from the block to the helm to see if the ground or the +ve supply is the problem.

And of course it has started to rain heavily!

Graham

Update; The main twin connecter at the helm ( +12V and ground) looks like it might be suspect. However, it looks like it was conneted first and all the other cables were put on top of it ( actually uinder it, because it's underneath the dash. It's completely obscured.. To actually get at it I'm having to remove virtually the whole behind dash wiring. ( to be honest, it's very untidy wiring)

Graham

Graham,

I can't add anything to this post, as your methodology and recommendations above would be the same as mine. You well on your way to finding your problem...

Also, I'm sure your already in the process of doing it but clean up your terminating points as you progress through the circuit and make sure to hit them with a good amount of dielectric grease.

Best of luck!

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Walter

2003 248 Vista - VP 5.0 GXi
2009 Toyota Tundra SR5 5.7L 4x4

The light is fading so I have stopped for tonight. There were some poorly crimped terminals, but the problem was the main power connector; due to the way it has been positioned, basically just inside the cockpit, the whole weight of the wiring harness to the right of the dash ( where it disappears through a cutout) is actually pulling continuously on the 2 connectors. When I finally got all the cables out of the way and moved the connector block the 2 pins ( live, If I hadn't isolated the batteries) pulled out of the plastic block. Thoughtfully there was a cable tie very close to them which made sure they contacted! Could have been interesting if it happened whilst out as sea!

I'm part way putting it all back together ( properly!). There is now 12.8 V at the fusebox/ ignition switch.The worrying thing is that it wasn't possible to stop the engine using conventional means.

Graham

Great job, Graham. I agree they create a rat's nest back there with the wiring - clearly no attention to detail whatsoever. A careful 5 year old could do a better job.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Did you try again after the clean up?

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Walter

2003 248 Vista - VP 5.0 GXi
2009 Toyota Tundra SR5 5.7L 4x4

No, not yet. I am in the proces of connecting everything back up again and hope to be able to get if finished later today ( work is getting in the way!)

Graham

Not good! Still, unless this loose power connection somehow found another ground I don't see why disruption of the ignition circuit via key or kill switch did not stop the engine. You might want to carefully inspect the back of that fuse panel, something isn't right.

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2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

Almost everything is now back together and working. I didn't get a chance to start up the engine yet; Rain stops play yet again!

A job identified for next winter; throw away that fusebox and replace it with circuit breakers/ a panel fitted in an accessible position! The person who decided to put the fusebox where it is should have been made to wire each one up in the factory. It must have been terrible for the people assembling the boats putting that lot together under time pressure, the connections to most terminals on the fusebox can only be made by feel, not visibly; I'm not surprised it's untidy.

Graham

The rain let me have another hour at it, but it's torrential rain here now so that's it for the evening I think!

I still can't get the fresh water pump or the wipers to work; there is a break in the harness somewhere ( fuses OK, voltage at outlet of fusebox, nothing at the switches). Probably one of the multipin connectors behind the dash, of which there are many.

I cleaned all the ground connectors on the engine and the connectiions to the starter. No protective grease at all on them. There was some corrosion, but they're clean now with plenty of dielectric grease on them. Some interesting things, especially finding a fairly weird mix of hardware. Maybe it may help someone in the future to know this beforehand;

As expected, one lead goes from the battery switch to the starter, all the power circuits are connected to the same terminal on the starter.

Those power leads ( which are black!) are attached to the starter by a 17mm steel nut, with a M8 thread. The battery cable is attached to the other end of that nut by a M8 bolt with a 12mm head. No brass or stainless is sight.

There are two ground studs, the first one on the block, the second on the starter!; Unless you know it's there, it's difficult to see the second until the first is stripped back. These use a mix of stainless and mild steel nuts and washers, A/F this time, not metric. The engine stud has the 2 battery leads, plus a lead that goes to the alternator ( I think!). Also the ACP and Neutrasalt ground wires. The other stud takes the ground wires from the FW engine compartment harness.

Graham

I!t's all sorted now; thanks for all your advice; the engine started OK ( after a few attempts, as it was probably flooded when I pulled the coil connection off). More importantly, it stopped when it was supposed to ! A multitide of things:

Loose main connection plug pins ( +12ve, ground) to the helm with pins not locked in that plastic conector.

A number of incompletely seated pins in the multiplug connections ( it took a while to find all the connectors, my arms are ripped to pieces by the cut ends of cable ties!). The FW wiring schematics were very useful.

Some improperly crimped terminals

Corrosion at the 2 grounds on the engine ( no protective grease, a mixture of stainless and mild steel nuts and washers.

Faulty fresh water pump switch.

Corroded freshwater pump multiplug connector

Faulty wiper motor ( due to water ingress down the shaft onto the terminals, one rotted off completely). I managed to mend it !

I found very few tinned marine cables in the loom, the only ones I found were for the 12V receptacles.

Graham