www.iFourWinns.com

Plan on buying some premix 50/50 antifreeze to winterize soon. About how much will I need considering a 3.0L VP? I can't find the coolant capacity in the manual. I've read that the 'pink stuff' is best but we have pretty mild winters in GA so I would think just about anything would work down to -30 degrees.

Please advise. thanks.

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-2006 H180 VP3.0 SS 21p

The Camco kit calls for 3 gallons I think. YOu put it inline with your flush kit, fire up the motor with water until it gets warm. when the motor warms up, you switch the valve and let the antifreeze flush. When it's all out of the container, you are winterized.

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2008 318 Vista -SOLD, but I am still around!
All Night Long, Seattle WA

Howdy,

You have a closed cooled engine?

When you're going to "winterize" by allowing A/F to be sucked into the engine, you should still drain the block, manifolds, etc after you park it for the winter.

If you're closed cooled, just allowing the A/F to be sucked thru the system is adequate to put A/F into all the raw water areas.......

On the other hand, If raw water cooled, your thermostat will determine how much 50/50 A/F is mixed with the water circulating in the block.

When running the engine lightly loaded (like idling on the trailer) the T-stat won't open much and you'll only get a very small amount of mixing (in the block) (50/50 Af mixing with raw water in an unknown ratio)

The safest way to ensure that you don't have "fresh" water pockets in the block is to drain it.


If you're doing it with a closed cooled engine, You're circulating A/F mix thru the entire raw water side of the heat exchanger, oil/power steering coolers, raw pump, manifolds (if a "FULL" system) & riser(s). Since the engine is closed and already AF inside, there's nothing to drain since AF is used where the "raw" water would normally go.

You probably should change your engine and drive oil too.


Cheers,


Rick

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1987 Four Winns Liberator 211, formerly OMC 460 King Kobra powered, replaced in 2006 by a 1997 Mercruiser 454/Bravo III

Thanks for the replies. Yes, this is a raw water cooling setup not closed cooled. I had planned on draining the engine first. Using a coat hanger to be sure the two drain spouts aren't clogged. Turning the engine over a second or two. Plug back up...Then, funnel antifreeze into either the water hose connection near the top of the engine by the dip stick or the raw water hose inlet near the impeller.....or both.

Last year I just drained the engine only but fear some residual water in the motor. (water pockets as you say)

Yes, I plan on changing the oil, filter, gear oil, spark plugs, impeller, and power steering fluid this year as part of a 3 year tune up. BTW, does anyone know if Dexron III will work with VP power steering? Advance Auto says Dexron III replaced Dexron II ATF. I bought Advance Auto brand ATF Dexron III but am a little reluctant to use it.

Thanks.

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-2006 H180 VP3.0 SS 21p

Any hydraulic oil will work just fine. Mercury even says you can use 30wt motor oil or ATF. It really doesn't matter. It's just a very simple hydraulic pump and a couple of cylinders.

I use ATF in mine because it's red and I'll see a leak more easily.

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1987 Four Winns Liberator 211, formerly OMC 460 King Kobra powered, replaced in 2006 by a 1997 Mercruiser 454/Bravo III

I use 4 gallons of the -100 to do my 4.3 V-6 by backfilling through the hoses (the best way to do a raw water cooled engine if you want to use AF) and I'd guess that's more than a enough for your 4 cylinder....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I you want to do it that way and you want to ensure that you get all the "pockets"......


You could use a big tub.

Place the tub below the transom and outdrive raw water discharge ports such that the tub will collect ALL the ("raw")water exiting the engine (it'll be harder if you have thru-hull exhaust)

Then, prime the system with antifreeze and place the end of the hose (connected to your "muffs"....or flush port) in the tub so that all the AF will be picked up by the raw water pump, and circulated thru the ps & oil coolers, engine/manifolds/risers and discharged back into the tub.

Be sure that the raw water pump gets primed and is sucking AF from the tub.

Let it run until the water in the tub is fairly hot (indicating that the t-stat is fully open) Don't run it long enough to over heat the engine because it will since the raw water system will be picking up progressively hotter and hotter water from the tub.


The longer you let it run the more the AF:water concentration in the block will approach the concentration of the mixture in the tub.....eventually it'll be the same. Fog the engine with your favorite fogging oil while you're running it and that'll be covered too!

I have closed cooling so I only have to let it run for a few minutes since I'm only winterizing the raw pump, ps/oil coolers,assoc plumbing, heat exchanger, and risers (I have a "full" system")

This is probably "overkill" but just pouring AF into the engine doesn't mix it everywhere in the engine.

If you want to do that you should probably drain the block and manifolds to get as much clear water out as possible before pouring in the AF........


Cheers,

Rick

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1987 Four Winns Liberator 211, formerly OMC 460 King Kobra powered, replaced in 2006 by a 1997 Mercruiser 454/Bravo III

Great. thanks for all the great tips guys.

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-2006 H180 VP3.0 SS 21p