www.iFourWinns.com

Ok we have heard lots of complaints about the FW trailers... Let's build the ultimate trailer in our little virtual world. Here are the basic specs--
1- tandem
2- capacity to suit the application

Let's assemble your best components (specs and pictures) and debate what should be on the "ultimate" trailer. Maybe somebody from FW will see this and use some of our ideas!(yeah right!)

Here are the debateable items
-painted versus gatorhyde vs galvanized
-C Channel or boxed frame construction
-surge hydraulic or electric brakes
-single or dual set of brakes
-springs or torsion axles
-drop axles or straight
-bunks or rollers
-side bunks or guide posts
-LED vs standard lighting
-grommett style recessed or surface mount lights
-fixed tiedowns vs removeable straps
-roller foot or fixed plate jack bottom
-strap or steel cable for winch
-single speed or two speed winch
-treatment of non skid areas
-aluminum or steel rims

_________________
Marc, Kathlin & Nathalie


'89 Chaparral Laser 32

'93 Vista 245, 5.8L w/ King Cobra

Former Boats
'01 H260, 7.4 VP Duoprop
'98 H200, 5.0 GL w/VP SX drive

1) Fixed tie-downs suck. Good old-fashioned straps are extremely reliable and just as easy to use.
2) A 2-speed winch would be ideal. Sign me up!!!
3) The carpeted bunks need to be "slippery-er" because cranking a 5K lb boat ain't easy and bottom rollers can be dangerous on steep inclines.
4) The entire winch mechanism needs to be more stout.

_________________
2008 H220 Frenzy - 5.7L VP SX Drive
2013 Tahoe LTZ Tow Vehicle (admiral's ride)
2011 Ford F150 XLT Ecoboost Tow Vehicle

Given the fact that I've had zero problems with brakes or my winch (which is already 2-speed), I would vote for:

- LED's (already changed mine and I thought the new trailers were coming standard with them)
- A stronger tongue jack, still with a wheel
- Side guides that are much stronger or an entirely different design, possibly with lights for us night boaters
- Either gatorhyde or galvanized - no painted - and if galvanized, everything that can get wet or splashed is galvanized
- All hardware to be stainless steel
- Aluminum wheels
- Choice of Sure-lube or oil bath hubs
- Bunks that extend a bit further back than what they normally do, and outboard bunks which extend further forward than normal (to the next frame cross member).

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

+1 to Mikes comments...

My trailer is almost perfect (as I ordered it) - galvanized, gatorhyde, alloy wheels, alloy spare, tandem, 4 wheel override discs etc. Just a few comments/suggestions:

- Mine came with LED lights (had to be changed to meet Australian registration requirements), but a must have
- Fix the brake lines to the axles with zip locks etc. - needed on mine to meet local registration requirements
- All hardware and fixings need to be stainless
- Need rubber caps on the brake bleeders - in salt water the damned things corrode and you have to remove the bleeders and clean them before you can even contemplate bleeding the brakes
- Stopping power of four wheel discs is pretty ordinary unless an emergency, then they only work OK. 2 wheel disc version brakes worked much, much better. Seems they use the same size master cylinder for 2 & 4 wheel brakes, but 4 wheel require much more volume to be moved to actuate. On my 'to-do' list for the future!

Overall, Very happy with my box section galvanized trailer! C-section is too flexible IMHO and will twist. I tow quite long distances sometimes (1000 mile round trips) often on crappy third-rate coastal roads and do not have a single complaint about how it has performed to date.

I powerload my boat all the time (concrete ramps everywhere I have been - must be lucky I guess) so never have an issue with bunk friction, winches, side bunks etc.

Edit: Oh yes, the tongue jack rattles like hell when towing (not exclusive to FW trailers). I fixed it by tying it to the chassis rail with a rubber shock cord, but there must be a better way!

_________________


Alec

2006 Horizon 190
VP 4.3GL/SX, Sunsport

I would not get the FW trailer not because of construction issues...but rather because being in a coastal region (7 foot depth change from low to high tide) a bunk trailer would not work well on our ramps unless it's high or close to high tide...so I need rollers...galvanized or aluminum...spindle lube (super lube) hubs...leaf springs are fine...galvanized hardware is OK...stainless is more corrosion resistant but not as strong...Kodiak disc brakes...galvanized rims...
I rebuilt my old galvanized (1994) Load Rite and the quality of the original galvanization is excellent...still rust free 15 years old salt water trailer...I replaced just about every u-bolt...the axle (upgraded capacity) springs (rusted and upgraded capacity) put on a longer tongue and longer roller bars...this allows me to launch without getting the rear wheels of the Jeep in salt water....if I got another one it would be a Load Rite galvanized roller but with Kodiak brakes....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Everytime I put in or take out I wonder why people hate the FW trailers so much? I have no complaints about my gator hide FW trailer. Only thing I would do differant is asked for a two axle trailer instead of the single but still its a great trailer.

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Guns kill people like spoons make people fat.
2007 Horizon 190 Gxi
97 Pathfinder SE 4x4
73 International Scout II

Here's a neat system I am considering for the trailer I need to build for the 93 245 Vista



They even make the same system with air ride!

_________________
Marc, Kathlin & Nathalie


'89 Chaparral Laser 32

'93 Vista 245, 5.8L w/ King Cobra

Former Boats
'01 H260, 7.4 VP Duoprop
'98 H200, 5.0 GL w/VP SX drive