www.iFourWinns.com

I have an opportunity to pick up a Neutra Salt system at less than Retail. If I had a new boat it would be a no brainer. But...........I have a 2006 with 210 hours of salty conditions. I pulled the Risers and Manifolds about 4 months ago, 190hrs, and they were rusty, I cleaned them and put them back on. Would installing a Neutra Salt system be benificial at this point, or a waste of time and money?

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2006 300 Sundancer
2007 Trailblazer LT V8
2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G (For Sale)
Previous Boats:
2006 255 Sundowner 5.7GXI-G
2000 CrownLine 202BR
1994 Baja 180 Islander
1980 Galaxy 18' BR

Jeff,

I have Neutrasalt on mine; it certainly minimised the quantity of rusting in the manifolds/ risers, very little in there when I took them off this winter ( I also have FWC, so the engine m itself doesn't see salt water). I don't think Neutrasalt will reverse any rusting, but just prevent or reduce further rusting. It could help keep your thermostat clear for example.

Graham

Thanks Graham, I boat weekly, and Flush after every outing. I can't speak for the 1st owner who had it 6 months and put 60 hours on it.

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2006 300 Sundancer
2007 Trailblazer LT V8
2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G (For Sale)
Previous Boats:
2006 255 Sundowner 5.7GXI-G
2000 CrownLine 202BR
1994 Baja 180 Islander
1980 Galaxy 18' BR

I run Salt-Away in mine as it is 100% salt water usage. In addition to being a salt removal treatment, they say that it will "break down and remove old salt and rust build up with repeated use", so hopefully will eventually clean up the rust already formed...

http://www.saltawayproducts.com/

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Alec

2006 Horizon 190
VP 4.3GL/SX, Sunsport

Hmmmmm, sounds like I may get it and install it anyway. Anybody with this installed on a simular boat? Where is the factory mounting location?

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2006 300 Sundancer
2007 Trailblazer LT V8
2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G (For Sale)
Previous Boats:
2006 255 Sundowner 5.7GXI-G
2000 CrownLine 202BR
1994 Baja 180 Islander
1980 Galaxy 18' BR

I'm not sure of the factory mounting position. On mine, the reservoir cage is mounted on the transom on the port side; they used the thread on one of the U bolts for one fixing point and a screw/ washer for the other one. Then a filter in line to the actuator, which is also screwed onto the transom. There is an adapter that is put in the water hose before it enters the cooler.

Graham

I tried running my Neutra Salt this w/e for 45 sec with engine idling as advised but nothing happened. In other words the reservoir remained at the same level as before. The guide recommends revving the engine to 2500 if idling does nothing...My question (excuse my ignorance - this is my 1st boat) is, how do I rev the engine without engaging the engine?

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Oliver
'06 V278
Singapore

There's a button in the centre of the shifter "hub" that you press. It's black against the black hub/ lever, so it's not an obvious button! Depressing it disengages the drive cable,. so the shifter only moves the throttle cable and the engine can be revved with it out of gear.

Is this a new Neutrasalt installation? Is the solenoid clicking? If not, it could be the inline fuse or the ground wire.

If it's not new, then have a look inside the reservoir; things like to grow in the Neutrasalt solution, the reservoir outlet and filter on mine was blocked by a black slime and there was a load of it in the reservoir as well.

Graham

Thanks for the advise. Its a 2006 V278 and Im pretty sure the solution has been onboard since 2006! So you probably right the reservior is most likely blocked. Ill try the revving and then will poke about in the reservior.

Oliver

ps. How can you tell if the solenoid is clicking?

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Oliver
'06 V278
Singapore

Oliver,

You should be able to hear it ( especially if the engine is not running). Alternatively, if you put your finger on it, you should be able to feel it when it operates.

Graham

Oliver:

You can also check resistance of the coil on the solenoid. I measured 17 ohms on the one I just installed. FW made it somewhat easy on us, there was a set of wires in the harness right behind the blanks on the dashboard, just had to run wiring from the transom storage locker on my V268 where I installed the reservoir and solenoid. The switch supplied by Nuetra Salt fit right into one of the spare slots.

Another post said they didn't see any level drop, in the reservoir there is a small filter with a little green plastic ball inside of it. I guess it will block the line if you have no fluid in the tank to keep from sucking air into the raw water system. I removed it from mine because it had a tendency to sink and block the passage. Just have to be aware of your level that way.

Just replaced my risers / manifolds at 300 hours. They would have needed changing soon. Went overboard with Stainless Marine equipment. Suprisingly only a few hundred bucks more than MC stuff. There are a few tricks involved with hose routing on this change out, so if anyone goes this way let me know and I can fill you in on the details.

9BALL

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2005 V268

Finally got mine installed on my twin engines. 1 Tank, 1 Valve, I "TEEed" after the valve, and run one engine at a time. Before I ran the motors, I flip the switch and can hear the valve switching on, a small clicking sound. While running the motor(s), I can see the solution tank slowly decrease. So I know it is sucking in the solution into the motors. Mine works

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2006 300 Sundancer
2007 Trailblazer LT V8
2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G (For Sale)
Previous Boats:
2006 255 Sundowner 5.7GXI-G
2000 CrownLine 202BR
1994 Baja 180 Islander
1980 Galaxy 18' BR

I search a lot on Neutra Salt but still need more information

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lysol neutra air msds

http://www.volvopentastore.com/QL-Neutr ... _id.352393

Anybody seen a different system or is this what you are using?

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-Tony
2016 Robalo R200 w/Yahama 200!

Previous boats:
2003 Four Winns 248 Vista - sold
1994 Sunbird Corsair 200 - sold
1980 Checkmate Predictor - sold