www.iFourWinns.com

Just changed the oil in my 08 FW -- has the 5.7Gi VP with 70 hours on it....needed oil added but no clue as to what what in there so i played it safe and changed....well, theres the delima-i knew to use full synth and did.....i opted for Royal Purple but there is NO synth oil around hear that has single weight...only straight 30w around was dino oil.

Read the manual and it said multiviscosity could be used if other not available....what's the prop with Multi-visc synthetic??? Long story short is i put in 10w30 Royal Purple.....thought was same weight top end in heat (don't use this boat in cold).

Any thoughts? Is this OK or do i need to dump this gold and park the boat to weight on a ups delivery of oil. There is NO volvo penta place nearby either.

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08' H210SS
VP 5.7Gi

IMO you'll be fine, but I'd get the recommended oil for the next change.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I must admit I'm more than a little sceptical about this single viscosity oil crap Volvo insist on. I raced small block chevs for 20+ years under some fairly extreme conditions (roller cams, extreme valve spring pressures, 9000 rpm) and always used a multi-vis mineral oil (free, courtesy of my sponsor). Never saw any sort of lube related problems - bearings always looked like new at teardown - even when we really leaned hard on the motor in the finals. Bear in mind this was cheap consumer grade mineral oil, not synthetic, so should be heaps better with a synthetic oil in my book.

I intend to run 5W30 Castrol Edge full synthetic next change - Castrol recommend this for my engine. I'm sure if there was even the slightest risk of a problem they would not list it.

Does anyone have any facts, thoughts, or opinions on single versus multi viscosity engine oil??

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Alec

2006 Horizon 190
VP 4.3GL/SX, Sunsport

I can see the benefit of a straight weight in a high revving boat engine in that they do not thin out as much because there are no VI improvers as in a multi vis...and although Volvo says use a syn I bet there would be no problem using as straight 30 HD oil such as Shell Rotella, Chevron Delo 400 or Pennzoil Marine HD....

I've used the Chevron Delo 400 straight 30 for years without problems...

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I have run Amsoil 15W-40 synthetic in my Volvo 7.4GiDP since it was new. Almost 900 hrs on it now and never had any problems. Doesn't use any oil between the end of the season when I change all the fluids either. (1997 FW 240 Horizon Lim Edit)

You will be fine, the temps the the marine engines run at you really dont need syn oil, dino will be fine trust me your engine will not be damaged in any way, you can also run multi grade like 5-30 or 10-30 the lower number is for winter start up, you are fine until your next change.

Mike

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Mike
2007 Horizon 200 SS
5.0 GXi SX drive.

The only thing I'd be concerned with is multi vis oil possibly thinning out after high speed runs...check your hot idle oi pressure after a long run...if its good...then no worries...if it's lower than what you saw before...I'd put straight 30 HD oil in there as I said before...multi vis oils do tend to thin out but being that the Royal Purple is a syn they do not have to use as much VI improver so it may be fine....just keep an eye on the gauge...

BTW I would not use a 5w anything in a marine engine syn or not...
but a 15W/40 HD oil would probably be fine...as would a 20w/50...
In conventional oils it takes a lot of VI improvers to make the oil span the temp range for a 5-->30....and when they break down you wind up with a lower than 30 weight oil in the engine.....does not happen with a straight 30 to the same extent....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

These marine engines could run 0-0 Nascar engines do, oil like in cars or engines in a racing application period ask me how I know. I live in Texas, its hot here and I race cars and build engines, stay with the manufacturer recommended but if you have to stray a little, it will not hurt your engines, me myself I would run 5w30 0r 10w30 before running 10w-40 or 20w-50 these are extreme duty viscosity ranges and are not needed in gasoline marine engines.

Mike.

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Mike
2007 Horizon 200 SS
5.0 GXi SX drive.

You know if you look at Mercruiser's recommendations (using the exact same GM engines as Volvo) they don't recommend any conventional multi vis oils...for temps 50 and under straight 30 over 50 straight 40...or you can use their own 25/40 which according to them is not a standard multi vis with VI improvers but a combination of those 2 straight grades...

http://www.mercurymarine.com/serviceand ... l.php#1124

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Thanks for the input all....I certianly noted no difference in the oil pressure during the 7 hours on the water yesterday. Although it's a waste i decided that I will be swapping the oil again before next outing (in 4 days)....mainly since this engine only has 77 hrs on it now and i have 4 years of warranty left. Just don't want to get caught up in a loophole if you know what i mean.

I bought this boat from a dealer with 66 hrs on it 10 days ago....they told me it was set for the season and the oil had been swapped at the 20 hr break-in mark......i got to thinking on the way home, that means it's due for a change now. Maybe not by the book, but i change mine every season or at 50 hrs if i hit that mark before season is over. Plus it was a tad low on the stick and i had no clue as to what oil was in there.

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08' H210SS
VP 5.7Gi

The manual for my 08', and although I have a different engine (VP 5.0GL), should be the same as yours since it appears to cover all VP motors including yours. If you look on page 100 it clearly states:

"Use the initial factory fill motor oil during the 20 hour break-in period. Afterwards, ALL MODELS are REQUIRED to use a MINERAL-BASED oil for the first 150 hours. After the first 150 hours, the operator may continue to use mineral oil OR switch to synthetic oil."

Based on that, VP wants you to use regular motor oil for the first 150 hours, THEN switch to synthetic if you choose, but its not required. Switching to synthetic before 150 hours is NOT recommended and I wouldn't do it if you still have warranty remaining.

It goes on to recommend the following oil viscositys for 32 degrees and above which would be for you in TX: SAE 30, SAE 20W/50, and SAE 15W/50. Again, thats page 100 from my 08' Volvo Penta Operator's Manual.

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2008 FW F204 - 5.0 VP "Stand On It"
Former Boat: Larson 186 LXI - 4.3 VP

Thanks - I will check my manual again to make sure so i get it right this time...the below is on their web-site, which is different too.

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08' H210SS
VP 5.7Gi

I have the oil situation figured out - gets to a point of being nuts really. I am going with the synthetic straight 30w and stay there....thought i would share some of the reasons for confusion.

Dealer 1 - said to run mineral oil 30w the whole time but you can swap to synthetic if you want to only but to run mineral for 100 hrs. They had no explanation as to why it is clearly marked synthetic on the motor if its an either or situation.

Dealer 2 - said that they recommend the 30W synthetic after break in since it will not break down as quickly as mineral. So if you use your boat frequently between changes during the season it may be best. They advised regular changes are the key regardless....also advised the 100 hour is overkill since the mineral oil at break in is to give the valves time to seat....also advised they can't imagine valves not being seated at the 70 hour point, so going with synthetic and staying there is good at this point.

As noted on here by several - the overall synopsis of regular changes is more imparitive than your selection but stay close to recommended W's for your temp zone.

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08' H210SS
VP 5.7Gi

As long as you can get the 30 weight syn then that's going to give the best protection but according to what was stated in the above post as per the Volvo manual the straight 30 HD is fine too...marine engines have been running just fine on straight 30 or 40 for as long as anyone can remember...I'd like to know their reasons for the syn 30....no one really sells that in the mass market....I wonder if they feel that oil temps with mineral oil get high enough to justify using syn...because overall the main advantages of the syn is more stable viscosity and better high temp resistance to breakdown....

I can say that with straight 30 I can see a difference in cold vs hot oil pressure readings that is significant...cold idle is about 40 hot about 20...so given that...I would not want a 5w or 10w multi vis...

On my old 98 Jeep 4.0 Six the oil pressure reads 40 cold idle and 30 hot with 10w-30 Valvoline Maxlife...but it does not spend much time at 3500 rpm like the boat engine does...

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I'm no mechanic for sure...but from what i have read and been told the synthetic will reduce friction over the mineral.....the friction to a point is desired at break in to enable the valves to seat properly - once that's accomplished the less friction the lower operating temp and less internal part wear. It is really hard to tell since the test data is all either provided by the oil company or a test paid for by them.....they report up to 5 degree reduction in engine temp and increase rpm under same load.

Could be BS - i don't get the reduced temp thing since the engines are equipped with thermo's and should be running at the set temp anyway....i can't see how reduced temp would be calculated....afterall, just because you buy a Trojan Magnum doesn't mean you will grow into it Right!

Now if we are talking 5 hours more for the life of the engine or 200 more i don't know.
I also note that i have not read anywhere that oil choice has contributed to engine failure...now infrequent changes yes...i had an engine failure (hole in piston) on my last boat (5.7L mercruiser)...It had around 1,500 hours on it with most of it towing...not bad for a gas engine so can't complain and it never saw a drop of synthetic.

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08' H210SS
VP 5.7Gi