www.iFourWinns.com

I would say yes if yours works now without turning the key on. Mine does.

If you use the plug and play it should act as the one does on your throttle now. That's assuming yours is on the throttle now.

Mine doesn't. I have no problem leaving my battery switch on, though.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I just like to always turn off the battery switch when we get off the boat in case a light or something has been left on. I still have to work out a way to shut down the refrigerator so it doesn't kill the batteries then I could leave the switch on and just make sure all the other stuff is off.

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Marc, Kathlin & Nathalie


'89 Chaparral Laser 32

'93 Vista 245, 5.8L w/ King Cobra

Former Boats
'01 H260, 7.4 VP Duoprop
'98 H200, 5.0 GL w/VP SX drive

I miss read this. Mine doesn't work with the battery switch off but it does with the ignition switch off like Mike 230. I leave the battery switch on 1 or 2 all the time because I keep the dual battery charger pluged in when the boat is idle.

Guess mine doesnt work with the switch off. I usually leave it on so that is why i did not know. So much more convenient.

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

How about adding one of these inline to the 12V feed to your fridge?



$5.00 at Harbor Freight.

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2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

Finally got around to installing the switch I mentioned in this thread so long ago. While i really like the price of the switch I bought, I really don't like the profile - think it's about 1 inch tall. Made finding the best mounting spot tough - had to check fit with the different covers I have, clearance for opening and closing the sunpad, and just keeping the thing out of the way of feet, etc.

I ended up installing it to the right of the tow hook above the swim ladder here:



I drilled a 5/8" hole to enable use of wire loom as a grommet (seen in the background below) and epoxied supports in place.



The correct OMC connectors to allow 'plug-n-play' well exceeded the $20 I spent on the waterproof switch, so i used inline connectors on the FW side of the harness. BTW - the black OMC connectors can be seen directly beneath the three blue inline connectors.



Not as pretty as the volvo or merc switches, but works just the same.

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2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

Good chioce of locations.... did you by chance consider under the swim ladder hatch? I had the same "device" on my last boat. As you I wasn't happy with the height, but functionality was more important than looks at the time. That was also in mind on the present boat, and was glad I could apply one of the aux functions from my key FOB for the lights to operate the trim/tilt ... well, at least UP anyhow. It has come in VERY handy during maint, on the ramp, and especially when I beach the boat and put the drive down in the mud to dig in. With the remote I can raise the drive and shove off without tracking mud into the boat.

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

Look up 87-815200A02... It is a merc switch... but I installed it on my H200 and it looks nice! The harness connectors do not match unfortunately and I had to cut and solder the wires to get it to work... however, it looks like a factory install and I really like this switch... I installed mine in a convenient location on the port side of the ski tow hook... the fiberglass here had a slight radius, but it still looks good and I've had several compliments... if you want it completely flush you can also put it in underneath the ladder swing door... I opted against this cause this area gets really dirty on my boat and I wanted the switch to be installed vertically rather than flat... soldering is not that hard as it is only splicing 3 wires... I used heat shrink tubing to make it nice and neat... wholesale marine has this for around 35 bucks I think...
I have a 5.0Gxi volvo... you do need to drill a 3/4" hole through the fiberglass which is not hard but scares some people... the fiberglass is more resilient to drilling than you might think...

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2007 FW Horizon 200 5.0GXi/SX-A

Looks interesting. The only pic i could find is below.



I can see what you mean about flush mount versus surface mount, but cannot see the switch itself clearly.

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2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

If you go back a few pages in this thread, you will see I posted the part #'s of the Merc switch that will plug and play with the Volvo wiring. I even posted a picture it on the back of my last boat.

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

Here is my merc switch... but it wasn't plug n play and I had to cut 3 wires...

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2007 FW Horizon 200 5.0GXi/SX-A

Merc # 87-815200A 1 is plug and play with Volvos.

http://www.boatfix.com/bykeywordmerc.as ... mit=Search

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

Not with Volvos that use the OMC (flat style) connectors like mine pictured in my post above.

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2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

I doubt either of these merc switches (a01 or a02) will match the newer volvo 3 wire connector plug.... but if you are not afraid to mod these switches are nice and inexpensive... several have told me that the switch I installed looks like it was factory installed.... I say pick your switch for cosmetic reasons and go for it... its a small project and neither brain surgery nor rocket science... I'm guessing they are all 3 wires and operate the same way...

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2007 FW Horizon 200 5.0GXi/SX-A