www.iFourWinns.com

21k for a 230 definitely worth a look.

I'd be tempted to drive to FL for that one. I looked at a repo last year that was 28k that I wouldn't have traded straight up for.

On another note, with a family of 5, the 18' boats do not leave much room for guests and gear (there is always guests and they all come with gear).

_________________
-Rob.


Current boat: 2011 Yamaha AR210
Previous boat: 1998 Horizon RX 4.3GL SX

Wow, I definitely appreciate all the advice so far. As of right now I am leaning towards that 230, although who knows how much longer it will be for sale, but hopefully long enough for me to get my money first, and in good enough condition to merit purchasing.

I have a few questions about the risers and manifolds. From what I have read, you can pull the risers and check for corrosion, and the same for the manifolds, I was wondering how difficult this was, and what a rough cost is to replace them, as I could always use that for bargaining on a boat, especially an older one. Now, I am not a mechanic by any means, but I don't have a problem learning how to do stuff, plus I have an uncle that is a mechanic, so that will definitely help.

What exactly do I want to inspect when going to look at a boat initially? I am sure there are certain things to definitely look at, and questions to ask.

I am glad I have found this site while researching my purchase, and after I make a purchase I will definitely stick around and post up some pictures.

_________________
2001 Horizon 260
VP 7.4 / DP-SM

To be honest - there is a ton of things I look at.....gouges,cracks, leaks in engine compartment, leaking power trim motor, rust around engine indicates leaks, rust on interior bolts on transem suggest transom probs, floor should be good in that one (fiberglass), take for test ride and then check engine oil for sign of water intrusion, see how it runs, check low unit oil for sign of water, look at wiring in engine compartment for corrosion....if so chance boat may have been swamped (may have some but not excessive), check all systems on boat (blower motor, bilge motor, lights, all electronics).

During test run keep eye on temp guage (usual is around 165ish) depending on thermostat but should be close....let run at idle for a while and run it up to WOT and watch temp guage....if it starts to run hot then don't even get into it. Check oil pressure guage also.....really need to take it out for these checks since running on a water hose doesn't put motor under a load......many will run cool on hose, but put the load on when in water then they will run hot....

While in water running and after you have run her for a while....open engine bay and smell for fumes, check for leaks or unexplained water in bilge, put hand on top of risers to see if they are hot.....may be a little warm/hottish but you should be able to put hand on them with no probs. If you have one blistering hot there is a prob.
Beyond that you are pretty much in surveyers work - they further check hull for malfunction and drive system including compression on motor. If you look and are serious about that boat a survey would be in order. From the looks of it in the pics - it looks good....price seems very good??? remember boat buying season is really about to get going in a couple months....doent get into rush for this season.

_________________
http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o71 ... wqm355.jpg


08' H210SS
VP 5.7Gi

The 23 looks pretty sweet, and for what you want it for should work really well.

As noted above there is a lot to look for, you can divide it into hull/structure, mechanical and cosmetics. Hull/structural is perhaps the hardest to inspect because although you can see hull damage and gel coat condition, the structure is mostly hidden. You want to be able to see if there any weak or flexy areas on the deck and any signs of wood rot or fiberglass delamination. Many boats have wood cored decks, stringers (longitudinal frame members) and transoms. The condition of these is VERY importand and any structural repairs are VERY expensive. So walk all over the deck....look in the ski locker (cracks, brown stains could mean wood rot). Look at the engine mounts, any cracks in the fiberglass around the mounts or settling of the glas under the metal mount could mean rotted engine stringers. Look around the transom mount, any cracks could mean a rotted transom. Try to lift the drive up and down, see if you see any flexing in the transom.

Engine/mechanical, check the oil for condition and water (milkyness could mean a cracked block) look for rust stains and cracks on the outside of the block and heads (cracks means faulty winterization and a new engine needed). Pull out the drain plug for the outdrive, if water comes out followed by milky oil then the drive seals are leaking, not good, repairs needed.

Cosmetic, check the gelcoat, condition of seats, and canvas. Don't forget that new seating and canvas can be very expensive.

Finally you do a run on the water hose followed by a water test out on the water. Look for an easy starting engine, no smoke out the exhaust, look around and under the engine when it's running for water leaks. Water test, make sure it runs at the right temp (160-175) and will reach max rpm. Checking shifting into fwd, rev and neutral. Make sure the drive does not jump out of gear or slip when engaging . Listen for noises when trimming the drive up and down and turning, this can be a sign of a bad gimble bearing and ujoints. Look to see how much water has accumulated in the bilge while its been in the water. If it seems like a lot be very cautious, this could be a sign of major repairs needed, from a leaky bellows to a leaking transom seal. Try stopping, letting the engine sit for a couple of minutes and then re-starting. If the starter does not turn but CLUNKS it could be a sign of hydrolocking (water getting in the cylinders because of a faulty riser/manifold gasket or failed (rusted) manifold. VERY BAD, could have water in the oil and rusted exhaust valves.

Try to bring someone knowledgable about boats with you. You might want to get a mechanic to inspect it even before the water test. Money well spent. Be careful and try to buy the best condition boat you can find.

To answer your question about manifolds and risers, on salt water boats they are a maintenance item and have to be checked a 5 years or so, but if you see stains on the riser/manifold gasket joint or the risers start running very hot then it needs to be looked at right then. It is not a hard job IF you can get the bolts out.

Oh and lastly keep in mind you also have a trailer to look at...I have rebuilt a salt water traile so I've had some experience there too...

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

The wait is killing me, but I know it's gonna take time to get my money. Thanks for all the information, as I feel much more prepared now than if I was to go at it alone. Luckily, living in Florida, I would get plenty of time to use the boat, even if I purchase it later in the season. I am pretty convinced that I will be going with around a 23' boat, and if I get the money in time, I will definitely be taking a serious look at the 2004 Horizon 230 I listed earlier. I can't thank you guys enough for the little bit of information passed on here, what a great site!

For those wondering about what happened on my bike, here is a story from the day it happened. Three Bicyclist Struck I am thankful every day that I was even able to survive, and the other two guys as well, as since my accident I have seen many articles of bicyclist that have not made it after being struck.

_________________
2001 Horizon 260
VP 7.4 / DP-SM