www.iFourWinns.com

Mine comes straight out just as Bill describes. I think I have the last year before the change. I also don't have the forward stateroom option.

I've remeoved mine four times now, it get easier every time. The screws are looser.

I had a lot of problems with the input fittings to the pump leaking. The tubing from the tank to the pump isn't really flexible enough and caused the input fitting on the pump to twist and to leak at the o-rings. I tried lengthening the tubing to get a better fit and that worked for a while. Then it started again. Finally I greased the o-rings and used electrical tape to hold the clamp tighter on the fitting.

Next time, I think the real fix will be to get a couple of feet of tubing and put in a loop. That should remove the stress.

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2008 V358 Two-tone Blue V/P Dual Prop 320 HP
Lake Winnipesaukee, NH

Also consider using silicone 'rescue' tape. It tends to make a better seal than other sorts of adhesive tape. Works wonders for stuff like this.

The tubing from my tank to the pump doesn't seem to have the same problem. But I think you're on the right track changing to some tubing instead of the harder plastic stuff. The hassle will be in finding the right adapters to go from the Whale brand fittings to barbed ones for tubing.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

I was actually think of just using a big loop of the whale tubing. It should have a little more give over the longer distance. Right now the bend is just a little too tight. There are a lot of joints in a very small distance. The tank, an elbow, a shutoff, a filter, then the pump input.

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2008 V358 Two-tone Blue V/P Dual Prop 320 HP
Lake Winnipesaukee, NH

Hmm, don't know if that would improve things or not. The problem with a longer loop of the hard tubing would be getting it mounted securely. You definitely don't want to leave it loose, as that would just lead to more of the same troubles. I guess there might be some degree of flexibility offered, but enough to make it worthwhile? Not sure.

A flexible piece of tubing would isolate better but then there's the hassle of adapting it. And, as always, adapters cut down on rate of flow and present more places for things to leak.

I think the tubing lends itself to being bent, perhaps with a slight bit of heat applied. Maybe you could put a better bend in the tubing that way.

On a related tangent, I created a backfilling valve setup for mine. I put two tee fittings in the line, one just after the pump and another between the filter and the tank. I then ran a loop of line (using elbows) up over the top of the drawer. Where I then put a shut-off valve. This way I can open the drawer, reach up and turn the valve to refill the tank from the shore water connection back at the transom. When the valve is open it lets the shore water flow around the pump and back into the tank. Saves me the hassle of getting out the clean hose and dragging it up to the bow.

I just have to remember to turn off the water pump (of course) and to keep an eye on the level. It's possible to overfill the tank this way (and BOY does that sucker bulge if you let that happen...)

That and I put in a water filter down in the engine compartment. The shore water connection flows through the filter first and then back to the rest of the boat's plumbing. Again, just a couple of elbows and some line. It's made the taste of the water less bothersome (tank water is never great no matter what you do).

Here's a tip, you can visually verify the water level in the tank by pulling out the drawer and resting a kit flashlight, beam down, onto the tank. This lights it up quite nicely, enough so you can see the water level through the tank wall. I sometimes do this just to verify that the water level sensor is accurate (they're notorious for being wrong).

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

Thanks guys I will take pictures of my steps next time at the boat, I do not have the state room and for sure the cabinet does not fit past the step nor can it be lifted above. That is why it took us 5 hrs to do it through the draw opening.
there is a solid molded case under the mattress I was thinking of installing an access hole ( as Bill described ) I don`t think that will jeopardies integrity.
We found dirt in the filter and will know next week if this fixed the problem, it seemed too. I know I need to make it that I can get at this more easily going forward.
Thanks again

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Terry
2005 Vista 348
5.7 Volvo I/O

Ok this driving me a little crazy. Does your boat look like this? The wood panel cannot be removed without hitting the step? We are talking about just removing the wood panel, not the white part right?




I did think about adding a deck plate in the fiberglass under the bed, or in the wood panel, but after removing the panel so many times, it's pretty easy now. Just need to protect your knuckles from fiberglass splinters.

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2008 V358 Two-tone Blue V/P Dual Prop 320 HP
Lake Winnipesaukee, NH

Absolutely mine looks the same except at the top of the step there is a lip that extends likely 1 or 2" out, making it impossible to pull the wooden part of the cabinet out.
I can see how much easier yours would be, believe I am not crazy. I will take pictures next trip out, can't figure why I would have a different step than you guys.

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Terry
2005 Vista 348
5.7 Volvo I/O

Here is a picture of mine

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Terry
2005 Vista 348
5.7 Volvo I/O

I don't have a picture handy but I seem to recall the steps on mine have a little more lip than shown in jr's picture, but not as much as yours, Terry. I'd say the situation merits a call to the factory. That just doesn't look right and would strike me as a defect. Either that or the steps have somehow slipped out of position. I have no idea how the cabinetry is structured underneath.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

OK Terry, my bad, I though for sure you were trying to remove the wrong piece. It is amazing how there are little differences in each boat. Every one is a snowflake. Looks like on later years they removed the top step and that nice trim on the bottom. Probably a cost savings.

Did you feel around the top of step, it probably screwed down with the screw heads buried in the carpet nap.

You could cut a hole or two in the top fiberglass and install one of these, but you would still need long arms.

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2008 V358 Two-tone Blue V/P Dual Prop 320 HP
Lake Winnipesaukee, NH

We looked for a long time and found no screws of any kind, the carpet is tight so it is hard to tell how it is secured. I am going to explore two options. 1 cutting and pulling the carpet then cutting the lip or 2 making a hole in the top.
not quite sure what is best, I may also take the advice and call the factory, not sure they can help me much from where they are though.

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Terry
2005 Vista 348
5.7 Volvo I/O

just went thru this post today - have to add my vacu-flush dilemma.

the vacuum pump started cycling every 2 to 3 minutes. knew that wasn't right. went thru the manual, checked the bowl seal, cleaned the ball seal - did everything i could. still cycling. no water leak in bowl - the level stays the same.

talked to Al - my new best friend mechanic. per Al "90% of the time it's the duckbill valves." well, 2 hours and new duckbills later - pump is still cycling but now about every 5 minutes.

since my crack team of mechanics was working in reverse order the last thing they tried was a system vacuum check. guess what? system checked out fine. last advice from the team was "well maybe there's a pinhole somewhere."

now it's roughly about 7 minutes between cycles. i have resorted to the turn on/turn off process mentioned earlier.

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2006 348 Vista
"some days you're the bug and some days you're the windshield"

If the pressure is checking out ok then I've heard its like a sensor or switch on the pump.

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Former owner of:
1996 Four Winns Horizon 200 5.8L VP
2006 Four Winns Horizon 260 8.1L VP
2007 Sea Ray 290 Sundancer

Current boat
2004 Sea Ray 290 Sun Sport Twin 350 Mags

What is the " Duck Bill Valve"?

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Terry
2005 Vista 348
5.7 Volvo I/O

There are four duckbill valves inside your vacuum generator. It makes your vacuflush toilet work. They are round rubber tubes with the end shaped like a duck's bill. They tend to be a wear point and a clog point so clean or changing them is first thing to try for unexplained issues.

http://www.sealandtechnology.com/pdf/600345109-INSERT,%20VTC%20(VG4%20JW12%20&%2024).pdf

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2008 V358 Two-tone Blue V/P Dual Prop 320 HP
Lake Winnipesaukee, NH