www.iFourWinns.com

I am new to this boat, so this will be my 1st season winterizing the systems. I am planning to pull it at the end of September and want to plan ahead. I was reading the manual, but it did not mention a main drain for the fresh water system? I admit that I didn't look for one yet, as the boat is on a mooring and the wind has been wild for the past week. Do I just open a faucet and run it out with the system pump?

For the actual winterizing, the manual said to dump in 15 gallons of antifreeze and run it through all faucets to flush out the water. 15 gallons seems like a lot since it only takes 1/2 gallon to winterize the waste in my summer cottage(I drain the fresh water). I guess it's fairly cheap insurance, though....

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2003 248 Vista on Lake Champlain

I usually drain the fresh water tank through both faucets. After the tank is empty I use the shop vac to get what water is left in the tank. Also drain the water heater after the level gets low enough open the relief valve to help drain. Then use your air compressor and open all of the faucets hot/cold and pull the main line off at the pump and blow the lines out. I usually pull a few more lines off to ensure all the water is out and blow in them as well. There might be easier ways but this has not failed me yet. I do not put anitfreeze in the fresh water system as I find it a pain to get it all out in the spring.
sure all of the water is out of the pump impeller!

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2001 328 Vista "Nauta Dream 2"
AB Inflatable 10AL "Little Dreamer"
2000 248 Vista
1997 225 Sundowner


Mike

The first couple years I had a cruiser, I dump like 10 gallons of pink in the tank and ran it until everything ran pink, shut the pump off and called it good. That is until spring, when commissioning the system, it takes a month or more to get the small and taste out of the water even after flushing and sanitizing it, yuck and yuck.

The last 2 years I took a new approach, and it worked well
1 Drain the system as much as possible

2 unhook the hot water heater from the cold water in supply line and loop it to the hot water line out where the water heater outputs the hot water to the plumbing, this eliminates the hot water heater from the system. Important, turn the breaker off for the hot water heater or you will burn the element out in short order.

3 Add 2 -3 gallons of pink to the tank

4 Run the pump till pink comes out of the faucets and empties the tank

5 remove the output line from the pump and and with the closest faucet open and blow compressed air in until most if not all of the pink is out, then close that faucet and open the next, repeat until all are done

6 open the drain on the the hot water tank and let it drain, I always left it open. I also opened the safety valve and left that open too, just for good measure

My reasoning behind this method is, by draining and running pink thru then blowing most of it out is and low lying bends in the lines will have been adequately protected, and by blowing most of it out you don't have any issue with the smell or taste.
I still flush and sanitize in the spring.

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Jeff

'14 Cruisers 380 Express "Simon Sez"
Merc 8.2 Mag MPI 380
DTS B3X, (x2) Axius Premier


(SOLD)
'08 V318
Merc 350 Mag MPI 300
DTS Seacore, B3 (x2)

Just turn the cold feed to the bottle, open the hot taps and wait for them to stop running. If they continue, the valve on the cold tank allows. Put a cork in the great out of the tank instead.

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One of 4 Previous (Sold) Boats:
2000 Four Winns 268 Vista

Current Boat: 2004 Chaparral 235 ssi cuddy

Since this is my first season with a boat with a water system, this is what I was thinking about winterizing the water system.

1. Pump out and flush the waste tank.
2. Drain the fresh water tank.
3. Add 5 gal (1/4 fresh water tank capacity) RV antifreeze to the fresh water tank.
4. Run all taps independantly (hot & cold) until antifreeze runs into sink and exits out thru hulls.
5. Run head faucet into toilet and flush a number of times.

By doing this, the pump, supply lines, drains and thru hulls, hot water tank, fresh water tank, toilet, and the waste tank will be protected.

As for the taste and smell of RV antifreeze in the fresh water tank; I read that a mixture of 1/2 cup bleech per gallon of water was suggested to keep the water system clean, followed by a mixture of 1 quart of vinegar per 5 gallons of water will take care of smell and taste.

Comments???

Rod

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2010 278 Vista
5.7 GXi DP

Past:
1999 225 Sundowner
5.7 GSi SX

I bought my boat late last season and didn't really get an opportunity to study any of the plumbing systems etc. I had my marina mechanic winterize the complete boat (engine and all plumbing) as I basically didn't have a clue how to do it. They charged me $65 a tank to take care of the water systems (I have a gray water tank so just under $200 to winterize the plumbing ). Well this year I'll be saving that fee.

The only thing I'm a bit unsure about is the A/C system. I only used it once and have since drained the A/C strainer down in the engine hatch. Does anyone know if the A/C needs any additional attention? The main A/C unit drain pan and hose in the aft cabin are dry so I think should be OK.

Rod, I was planning on following a similiar plan as you for the basic plumbing systems unless others might see a problem with your process that we're missing.

Thanks

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Kevin
'06 V278
8.1 L Volvo
"Heart's Content II"

Here's a quick rundown of how I winterized my 268 last season...

I have done it myself every year, and it is a breeze. I just checked, and the fluid transfer pump I bought from Harbor Freight is no longer available. A cheap one will work..no need to spend the dollars on the Jabsco.

I bought a new tube for mine, a hardwalled plastic tube from Lowe's that fits perfectly on the pump end and also on the oil dipstick tube. I do not run the tube all the way down it. I heat up the engine on the garden hose, then extract the oil. Do the oil change, and then empty the block off all water via the drains at the bottom of both side of the engine block, and also the exhaust manifolds. Stick a small screwdriver in there to make sure nothing is blocking the holes and they drain completely. I also remove all hoses from the water pump housing at the bottom front of the engine and let those drain completely. Then put those back on. I leave the exhaust manifold and block drains open so they can let pink flow out, then seal back up. Make sure you remove the two hoses running to the water heater. Forget those and the water heater will burst!

Remove the hose from the thermostat, and start dumping in pink until it comes out the drain holes. Thats it for the engine. I like to drain the pink out to help get the water out of my bilge...and air won't freeze. My boat stays in the fairgrounds barn over the winter so its not heated, but I just use the pink -50 antifreeze. I still have a case left over from last year!

On to the drive. I built a drive stand out of a 2x8 and four casters. Very easy to use and lets me get the drive off.

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread. ... rive+stand

Is the link that I used to build it. Just put it below your drive and lower it down. Take off the 6 screws as well as the shift cable and it will come off no problem...no lifting even. I bought a alignment tool off eBay for about $30 to check my alignment. Do that and check the bellows for wear (I think I'm changing mine this year as they are original), then put the drive back on.

Remove the props and drain the fluid out. Refill the fluid with a drive oil pump, and then grease the prop splines with Volvo Penta prop grease. I bought the jar of it for a few bucks and have enough to last for the life of the boat. It sticks on there well, and isn't harmful to the environment. Be careful not to get metal splinters as you spread it on the splines.

For the head, I just pump it out and pour a gallon or so of pink down it. Same with the shower sump, pour pink down the drain tube until it comes on and pumps it out.

I take a funnel and a plastic tube, and stick it in the A/C through hull on the side of the boat. Pour pink in until it comes out the bottom of the boat. Verify the strainer is full of pink. The genset is the same...warm it up on the garden hose (open up the strainer and stick the hose in, turn it on full blast...make sure the seacock is closed. The genset will use less water than the hose puts out). Change the oil/filter/spark plugs, and then run it again to check for leaks. Stop it and then as you start keep pouring pink into the strainer. Have 2 gallons ready..I think it takes just over a gallon to suck it all up.

Now the genset is done.

Last but not least..freshwater system. Run your faucets until your tank is empty.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/it ... -kit/15717

Install that on your water heater. Drain it by opening the drain valve. The water left inside it will freeze but not damage anything. I leave the drain open over the winter. Make sure the bypass valve is turned so you don't get any pink inside the water heater.

Buy this and install it right before the water pump. You want it to draw directly from the bottle of pink so you don't get any in the water tank and get the tank contaminated. Its non toxic but a bear to get out of the tank come spring time. Turn on all faucets (galley/head/transom) until pink flows out of them.

Buy this, http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/it ... -plug/4410 and screw it into the city water hookup. I use my air compressor and blow out the lines so barely any pink is left in them, so I don't have to deal with an off taste come spring...only a quick sanitizing with bleach and its good to go.

On the trailer I just make sure to grease my bearings real good in case any water got it.

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

firecadet613,

Thanks for all the info. As this is my first experience with a fresh water system, that is what I am concerned and not sure about.

A couple of things;

Sounds like the smell/taste of the "pink" is more of an issue than I have read about.

Is just draining the water tank sufficient for the cold weather?

You do not run the pink through your water heater. Will the heater pick up the smell/taste of the pink if you did?

How long of a tube will I need for the A/C thru hull?

What about the toilet pick up? Will it drain on it's own with the thru hull valve left open and the boat on the trailer?

How much air pressure do you use when blowing out the lines through the city water connection?

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2010 278 Vista
5.7 GXi DP

Past:
1999 225 Sundowner
5.7 GSi SX

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

firecadet613.....nice one. Thanks for the winterizing advice

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Kevin
'06 V278
8.1 L Volvo
"Heart's Content II"

No problem. I'm doing the bellows this year as they are original as well.

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

Ok heres my take on all of this. A Cruiser costs a lot of money. The things like the water heater and fresh water systems also cost a great deal of money. I say if you don't know what the hell you are doing, stop trying to save a dime and pay a professional to have it done. The cost for me this year will be a little over $300.00. That includes all winterizing procedures, pulling the outdrive for service and servicing the motor. To me it's worth every penny. My friend tried to do his by himself the first year. He screwed up the water heater, the cost to replace was $1000.00. For those of you that do know what you are doing, I say go for it.There you have it, the long and the short of it!

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2003 268 Four Winns Vista
F-350 King Ranch Diesel (Tow)
1990 Four Winns Fredom 180

Wow! $300 for everything including pulling the outdrive? That's dirt cheap. Around here that $300 wouldn't even cover both my engines ($200 each). My boat would run nearly $1,000 to have the full winterization done by the marina. I let them do the engines and genset and I handle the rest of it myself.

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'01 Vista 298

That price includes taking it back in the spring for summerization. That is the going price here where I live. To be honest the first time I did it I thought it was expensive.

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2003 268 Four Winns Vista
F-350 King Ranch Diesel (Tow)
1990 Four Winns Fredom 180