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PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 6:43 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2009 9:41 am
Posts: 78
Location: Port Charlotte, Florida
Took our 268 off the lift today and tied up to outside of dock. Had some maintenance to do on the dock.

After work was done, tools picked up, put away, getting ready to put boat back on lift, I heard the CO monitors chirping. House battery showed 8.8 volts. Opened ship system breaker and voltage went up to about 11.5 volts. Starting battery around 13 volts.

The only thing powered up were the CO monitors and bilge pumps that did not activate. Boat was off shore power for about 6 hours.

When on the lift shore power is always on so onboard charger keeps the batteries up.

Thanks to bndfishing for the link to the isolator info. None of my manuals address this.

Since it was close to beer thirty by this time I called it a day and will start the fuse pulling / troubleshooting in the morning.

Will post results. After reading a few threads on this subject I have plenty of info to start with.

Thanks guys

9BALL

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PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 8:24 pm 
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wkearney99

Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 3:50 pm
Posts: 2444
Location: Boat in Annapolis, live in Bethesda, MD
9BALL wrote:
Opened ship system breaker and voltage went up to about 11.5 volts. Starting battery around 13 volts. The only thing powered up were the CO monitors and bilge pumps that did not activate. Boat was off shore power for about 6 hours.


The only things you 'think' where running off the batteries. Are you sure you didn't have the radio running? You'd be surprised how much drain an amp can pull.

My first step would be to unplug the power to the bilge pumps (usually an in-line connector) and recheck the voltage drop. If it's not the pumps then you're off on a bug hunt...

But if it is the pumps then replace them. They're reasonably cheap for what they do. The motor in them can seize and end up pulling a high drain from the battery. So they might not seem to be on but still be causing a drain (and potentially a fire). And if there's a separate float or high water sensor be sure to check it too.

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PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2010 2:42 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2009 9:41 am
Posts: 78
Location: Port Charlotte, Florida
Gents:
An update. Charged batteries yesterday and let them sit overnight without charger running. Had fuses removed for CO monitors and tank level monitors, aft bilge pump and hi level switch disconnected. Ship system breaker closed. The pump and level switch were easy to get to, so what the heck.

This morning, House battery at 8.4 volts, opened ship system breaker, voltage went to 10.2 volts. Charged battery back up. Put ammeter in series and started pulling fuses. When the stereo fuse was pulled the current draw dropped to .01 amps from about 1 amp. Pulled all fuses and opened ship system breaker meter still shows .01 amp. My meter ( FLUKE 87III ) hasn't been calibrated since I retired so this MAY explain .01 amps ???

Am considering purchasing a battery load tester, around $75, or pulling battery to have it checked. Any thoughts?

Isolator checked good, thanks again bndfishing.

9BALL

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PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 8:07 am 
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Dolphin

Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 2:05 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Oyster Bay, NY
It seems that 9Ball and I may have a similar if not the same problem. I am still on the bug hunt but I have slowed down considerably since she is now sitting on the mooring and it is quite difficult to work with. Isolator checked out fine. Before I put her in I purchased a new Die Hard AGM battery and while it still seems to be draining, it is holding much better and I haven't heard the dreaded chirps yet this year. My meter was reading -.10. When I have some time I am going to start the fuse pull/wire disconnect drill over again with the new battery. Thanks to all for advice. Good luck 9Ball I know all too well how frustrating these gremlins are!

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PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 8:55 am 
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Dolphin

Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2009 9:41 am
Posts: 78
Location: Port Charlotte, Florida
dkelly wrote:
It seems that 9Ball and I may have a similar if not the same problem. I am still on the bug hunt but I have slowed down considerably since she is now sitting on the mooring and it is quite difficult to work with. Isolator checked out fine. Before I put her in I purchased a new Die Hard AGM battery and while it still seems to be draining, it is holding much better and I haven't heard the dreaded chirps yet this year. My meter was reading -.10. When I have some time I am going to start the fuse pull/wire disconnect drill over again with the new battery. Thanks to all for advice. Good luck 9Ball I know all too well how frustrating these gremlins are!


dkelly: you say your boat is on the mooring, ?? Just floating on an anchor ball? Or are you in a slip? Do you have shore power capabilities?

I may have had this problem longer than I think. My boat is on shore power all the time so the charger is always in service. Haven't done any overnighters which would have brought this problem to my attention sooner.

Looks like youre troubleshooting is headed in the right direction.

As far as engine room access, I am only 5'9", 180 lbs. and I feel your pain.

Good Luck

9BALL

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 10:52 am 
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Dolphin

Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2009 9:41 am
Posts: 78
Location: Port Charlotte, Florida
Latest update:

Batteries tested today, bad house battery, new unit will be delivered friday. Re-installed previous starting battery to house position an troubleshot some more. Still had a 0.1 amp draw. Pulled battery switch out ( no wires disconnected ) There is a plug back there that supplies power to forward and aft bilge pump and stereo. Disconnected this plug the 0.1 amps went away.

Reconnected this plug, 0.1 amps re-appeared. Disconnected aft bilge pump, no change. Disconnected forward bilge pump, no change. Pulled fuse for stereo, unplugged Clarion 6 CD changer, no change. Hi level switch unpligged.

Looks like I will start hand over hand inspection of the wiring harness.

Just had a thought, went back down to boat, removed power wire to aft bilge pump circuit breaker, 0.1 amps GONE. Narrows my search down a bit. The harness for the pump lays across the starboard stringer, right where a big foot can step on it.

9BALL

dkelly any luck with your problem?

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 12:39 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 2:05 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Oyster Bay, NY
Yes, my boat is on a mooring. Our homeowners association has a private beach that we can moor at and dinghy out. Downside is loading and unloading with no dock, big upside is I can't beat the price! I did buy the Eu200i last year for when we overnighted and that made things much better.
I was reading your post and for a minute I thought it was a copy of one of my posts since I pretty much did exactly what you did! The point you are at is where I gave up! I am really curious to see how you make out. I am not sure when I will be able to work on it again but if I get anywhere I will be sure to post.
If I remember correctly, my harness is tied to the side, not on the stringer per se.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 7:15 am 
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Dolphin

Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2009 9:41 am
Posts: 78
Location: Port Charlotte, Florida
dkelly:

any progress?

9BALL

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 7:44 am 
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Dolphin

Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 2:05 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Oyster Bay, NY
Not sure! My comedy of errors continues! After realizing I had been given an outdated manual, I got the new schematic and went out to the boat yesterday. I pulled all the wires from the back of the SeaKey interface and wrapped them in electrical tape. I went to check the draw and the battery in my meter died! So I wrote down the voltage from my GPS and will see where it is in a few days. Do you know if there is more to unhook? Something about the satellite module? I see the heavy wire but didn't locate the box itself and not sure if its power is supplied from the dashboard interface through the cable or if there is a separate power line too.

Also, sad sign about FW customer service. I emailed asking for a correct copy of my manual and the response was "You can go the the FW website and find your model year and print it." Signed Four Winns CS Rep.
While I understand times are tough, but I kind of thought that was a little crazy and to not sign a real name?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 8:08 am 
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Dolphin

Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2009 9:41 am
Posts: 78
Location: Port Charlotte, Florida
By the looks of the diagrams in the Sea Key installation manual what you have disconnected should be all that's needed. The larger multi-pin connector is what goes to what they call the MSU. ( Marine Satcom Unit ) Don't know where it is.

Have you had your batteries load tested. Would be a pain being moored but probably a good idea. Or struggle through the season and have them checked during winterization. Don't know if you need that done. No winterization in FLA.

9BALL

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 2:20 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 2:05 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Oyster Bay, NY
I had the old one tested and it was ok but the tech said it appeared to not have much life left. Since it had 3 years on it I replaced it with a Die Hard AGM. If this doesn't work, I will keep chipping away but basically push through the season. So far this season, the drain takes a bit off the battery but I am able to run the fridge and radio without problems (have only done for a few hours). It is annoying, but having the Honda makes everything better! Yeah, I am in NY so the season is too short to deal with this crap! Plenty of time to "play" when she is on blocks!

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 6:45 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2008 7:51 am
Posts: 253
Location: Northern Virginia
My house battery drains pretty quickly too. And when I go to try and recharge it, I blow the battery charger breaker. The mechanics thought they isolated the problem last season but the problem is back. I did a little research and found that my battery charger has a selector switch that must be set to the right place depending on the battery configuration you have. I happen to have had 2 AGM's and one wet cell and the switch should have been set to AGM. Now I have 3 AGM's and I changed the switch position to AGM. We'll see if I pop the breaker when the battery drains and tries to re-charge.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 5:28 pm 
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Shark

Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 12:31 am
Posts: 108
Location: Jersey Shore
What battery charger do you have? I have the Charles 5000SP and I am having a problem with it. I thought it as due to low house batery as well but discovered it did the same thing this weekend while the house battery had a full charge. The issue is the unit meter display pegs out all the way to right and the uniit overheats and trips the 50amp house breaker. I spoke with engineers at Charles and they clained that a low battery will cause the charger to peg out to the right. I don't believe them. This weekend my house battery was low and the charger worked fine and did not peg out to the right. Then I ran the engines for while and the battery was fully charged. while sitting there I heard the house breaker trip. I reset it, went in the bilge and sure enough the charger meeter was pegged out all the way to the right again. I think it is a defective charger. Any thoughts???

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 6:49 am 
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Starfish

Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2009 1:46 am
Posts: 58
Gentlemen,

I have suffered the same house battery failure and beeping as you have. Reading this thread got my hopes up for an answer :idea: ...but it looks as though there is no quick fix of common solution.
I guess step one is taking out the battery and giving it a good charge...and hoping for a dud battery. If not it sounds like needle in the hay stack time! :shock:

Please advise of any recommended "2nd step" or fixes that worked for you.

Seasons Greetings,

Oliver
2006 V278

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