millhaven_nice_guy wrote:
That is a fantastic setup! I like your idea and will be stealing the concept for next years support system.
Thanks, feel free to go with a similar setup. I developed mine based on seeing what others have done via other websites.
I over engineered mine by using 2" PVC. I could've gotten away with 1.5". I don't think 1" would be strong enough. I've seen some folks use metal conduit. It's smaller and can be manipulated into more complex angles. But I don't like the idea of swinging metal pipes around near the fiberglass gelcoat. My advice when you start building it is to buy lots of extra pieces and be prepared to return a lot of them. A cordless sawzall is definite tool worth having. But if you've got AC power a chop/miter saw works too. The ratcheting PVC tube cutters work too, but won't help you cut open the ends of tees for straddling the rails.
A spare hunk of old carpet is very helpful. For one it'll help you avoid dripping any PVC glue or cleaner. For another you can cut off pieces of it to cushion where PVC touches anything on the boat. Just remember to put the softer pile side down toward the boat surfaces.
My two goals where to be able to safely support the canvas if snow built up on it and to keep the canvas reasonably tight. Not so tight that it causes chafing, just tight enough to avoid allowing any flapping. Flapping and chafing are destructive, both to the canvas and any materials they might be rubbing against. That's what I made it using a ladder structure in the cockpit, it keeps the cover up and off of the vinyl seat at the transom. In the picture you can just barely make out that I have it upwardly supported using tees cut to straddle the transom hand rail.
It's hard to know ahead of time just how many elbows and tees you're going to need. Or the threaded fittings. I had planned on using threaded fittings everywhere but couldn't. Like the ladder frame over the cockpit. The threaded fittings would've made the bottom rung (the base of it) too large (threaded fittings have a larger outside diameter than regular slip fittings). So for those I just went with un-glued slip fittings and tied a rope around it to pull them snug. But I did use threaded fitting for where the uprights hang below the center spine up on the bow. This keeps them very secure. Note that PVC fittings are a pain in the ass to deal with when they're cold. A tiny bit of teflon lube spray helps, but don't let it get everywhere. For complex angles, like where the ribs extend from the spine, 22.5 and 45 degree elbows are great. Once you find the right angles use a Sharpie pen to put tick marks on where the pieces need to line up. Including any threaded fittings. That way you'll know exactly where to glue them up or re-thread them next season.
I can explain it better if anyone really wants to know.