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I want to use the Siruis radio antenna thats on the boat already with a portable sat receiver rather then mount another one. I figured the logical place for it to be would be near head unit and its not. The sat connect cable looks to be going behind the fridge and disappears, before I start taking things part anyone know for sure where its located?

Generally the antenna cable is about 20' long and the connecting cable between the radio and sat receiver is around 20' long so it can be anywhere, just wondering if anyone knows exactly where it is.

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2006 Vista 248 5.7DP - SOLD
2011 Crownline E6 - SOLD
2007 Sea Ray 260 Sundancer

It should be mounted on the wall behind the fridge. That's where mine is on a 2004 268 so I'm sure yours will be in the same place. Why do you want to use a portable one?

I have a snap radio with lifetime subscription I use in one of my cars, my 248 radio has an aux in cable and a lighter plug in the right spot. Figured it would be nice if I can just use the antenna thats there instead of buying another one if the cable was nearby. I guess I could just get a subscription for the boat but that would be too easy

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2006 Vista 248 5.7DP - SOLD
2011 Crownline E6 - SOLD
2007 Sea Ray 260 Sundancer

You can share an antenna, but it's not a simple splitter. The antenna is powered and you have to avoid there being more than one device trying to power it at the same time. Shakespeare makes a splitter that does this. I cannot recall the part number at the moment. I installed one in our 348. I now have both the Clarion Sirius module and the Raymarine weather module sharing the same antenna.

The connectors for this stuff are tiny. I don't know that I'd risk using something with them up on the helm, due to moisture and corrosion concerns. I guess you could, but finding a weather-tight setup for the wiring would be a bit tricky. Better to have it down below.

The way the Clarion gear is setup is as follows. The head unit (the radio) has a clarion network cable that goes to the sirius module. In my 348 the module is inside the cabinet next to the steps. Then the module has a small antenna connection to it. The clarion network cables can be pretty long. I don't know where the module is on your boat. On mine the cable appears to be a 12' long, but it's been bundled with a zip tie. The module is only about 3' from the radio. I added a splitter right there next to the module and mounted the raymarine module close by. The shakespeare kit came with everything necessary. I got it from Jim Maier at BOE Marine.

For your setup I'd wonder about how to set up a reliable connection to a portable unit. I'd want some sort of cradle that allowed a fixed connection to the wiring. Otherwise it'd be smart to use a bulkhead connector of some kind and with a short cable you can replace. That way you wouldn't risk ruining the whole cable if the end wore out or the cable broke due to handling. The type of coax used for this stuff is VERY hard to work on in the field. So plan on buying whatever lengths you need from a supplier that specializes in it.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

The radio will be in the cabin, its a tiny thing that plugs into a cigarette lighter plug and there is an acc/lighter plug next to sink in the cabin about a foot from the head unit.

I ended up just using another antenna, costs like 13.00, and its easy to hide the wire (tiny) and it just mounts on the rail. I didnt want to share the antenna, the sat antenna on my boat is a small car-like one, not the larger round ones on a mast I have seen on other boats and I was thinking it had the same connector. If it was easy to get at I could get it to work most likely but I'm not pulling the fridge to get at it. I am using the factory sat antenna on my dodge truck, just had to modify the plastic connector a little. They all seem to use the same electrical connector, but the plastic that surrounds it is different depending on who manufactures the receiver.

I'm just being cheap, I have a lifetime subscription to XM on this little radio and I use it in my two cars, house and now boat

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2006 Vista 248 5.7DP - SOLD
2011 Crownline E6 - SOLD
2007 Sea Ray 260 Sundancer

Pulling the fridge is actually pretty simple. Just a lot of screws around the face frame. A power screwdriver makes quick work of it. Then the whole unit pulls out. Had to yank mine when the coils leaked. Getting it out of the cabinet was a snap. Note that some are L-shaped underneath. When you pull it toward you take care not to expect the bottom to be all that deep. Our unit only extends back about 8" at the bottom and then steps up and back again to the coils. This design lets it sit low when there's an upwardly sweeping hull cavity behind it.

Getting it up and out of the cabin was a lot more work. The companionway opening is just a wee bit too narrow to let it fit. Had to really squeeze it through. This after removing the frame and door on the fridge.

Good to hear you found a solution that works. I added a pair of 12vdc sockets to the area right next to my radio.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

I started to pull the fridge but I'm 6'4 235lbs and not a lot of room to work with

New antenna was the easiest and least destructive solution

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2006 Vista 248 5.7DP - SOLD
2011 Crownline E6 - SOLD
2007 Sea Ray 260 Sundancer

So you're skinny then. I've got about 20lbs on you. I definitely sympathize with the hassles of tight spaces on boats.

It's a major chore trying to squirm into the cabinet behind the radio in the 348 too. And you need arms like Stretch Armstrong to reach the hot water tank drain valve. But the fridge opening is one of the easier ones.

The secret to working in the tight spaces is laying down a utility (aka mover's) blanket first. The tough quilted material saves your skin. Bunch it a bit when trying to lay across the rough edge of a cabinet opening. It also helps in the engine compartment. All those hose clamp ends sticking up are a killer. Just make sure not to lay the cloth on the hot engine manifolds, of course.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

I use 'dive mats,' they are left over from my race car days. They fold up and are around 2.5' x 5' and are padded vinyl. They work out well when reaching down to replace the impeller, drain plugs tank etc, otherwise I'd probably crack a rib on the edge of the hatch opening.

Have to remember I have a 248, the fridge door almost hits the head door when it swings open so not a lot of room in there to work even laying down, something I'd rather do only if I had to. My luck I'd get stuck and they wouldnt find me until they were auctioning off the boat in a couple months for not paying the slip rent