www.iFourWinns.com

Ditto on draining the drive while wiping down the boat, i also lower it after I get home to reduce the bend in the u-joint/bellows etc....

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Tanker Toad
NKAWTG..N!!
2008 H220 SS
2008 Chevy Silverado 4x4
2010 Tahoe LT 4x4

Again -- some differences ---

I only use trailering clips if I am doing a longer tow --- like to the keys, which might be 2-3 hours -- or when I took the boat on vacation this summer -- 14 hrs.

My usual tow is 30 minutes max -- so I don't use clips for that.

I have always just disconneted my batteries as the final thing I do on the boat each time. I do find that by doing that my batteries last a long time -- but that could be for many other reasons as well.

I one person launch and retrieve all the time -- my wife is there but she never has anything to do with the launch/retrieval process. After 30 years of doing it I have the routine down and it is maybe a couple of minute process. I still never have seen a need for a stern mount trailer switch. Oh well -we all just do things differently.

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DaleG -- West Palm Beach FL
2003 240Horizon -- 5.7Gi -Duoprop

Don't most people raise the drive completely before cranking it onto the trailer???? I cant see any practical reason for leaving it down while loading it onto the trailer at all. Not trying to sound smug, I guess I just don't understand.

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2011 H210 SS
MerCruiser 350 MPIC/Bravo I 300hp
"Crooked Wake"


Prior Boat
1999 Bayliner 1950 CL

I leave it down about half... a little easier to "power" on and keep straight. If I put it all up, steering is crap, all down and the drive hits the trailer before the bow hits the rollers. Just practical practice. The biggest reason I have the remote is when running on the muffs. I can watch the drive for the right position instead of guessing. I also like my gadgets (ie Walt's Mod's), and showing off functional, elaborate answers to simple problems.

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

Oh ok, your driving your boat onto the trailer...got it! After docking the boat at the launch and after shutting the engine off I raise the out drive completely up. I then float my boat onto the trailer a little more than 2/3 the way and then I hook up the pulley strap and crank it up the rest. Power loading to risky IMO. Different strokes for different folks.

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2011 H210 SS
MerCruiser 350 MPIC/Bravo I 300hp
"Crooked Wake"


Prior Boat
1999 Bayliner 1950 CL

V, Like the name choice btw.

I wouldn't call it power loading. I "drive" up until the bow eye is within 6-12" of the roller. At this point the boat is securely on the trailer and will not drift away when I fall out trying to get hooked up. Also, I should be set well on the chines/bunks and wave action is not likely to disrupt that as I finish getting fully on with a little muscle.

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

Same here, buddy backs trailer down in the water and I drive on slowly and he hooks the front eye hook and cranks me the rest of the way up. I trim the engine up and he drives us out.

I use the rear controls alot for when it is on the trailer and I am working on the boat (cleanning, get under, etc).

Just alot easier than climbing onboard every time I needed to move it.

Perfect example, back the boat into the garage and just walk around back and trim the engine down and close up the garage.

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

Transom Trim switch mod complete!!!!!

Cut the OEM connectors off



Crimped pins, silicone gaskets and sockets onto old wires




Plugged Merc harness into new plugs to test



Drilled hole in boat



Installed switch (with plenty of sealant)



Looks just like the factory installed switch on the FW website




I am very happy with the ease of install and it only took about 40 minutes from start to finish.

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Tanker Toad
NKAWTG..N!!
2008 H220 SS
2008 Chevy Silverado 4x4
2010 Tahoe LT 4x4

Just wondering why you didn't put it where the manufacturer had installed it?

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2011 H210 SS
MerCruiser 350 MPIC/Bravo I 300hp
"Crooked Wake"


Prior Boat
1999 Bayliner 1950 CL

The only picture that I saw of the transom trim switch was in that location AND It works for me....

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Tanker Toad
NKAWTG..N!!
2008 H220 SS
2008 Chevy Silverado 4x4
2010 Tahoe LT 4x4

After I posted that, I figured that maybe the manufacture has put them in other spots on the boat. Nice work man! I dont know if I have the B%$#! to drill holes in my boat. Ok maybe I do, I guess I just dont trust myself

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2011 H210 SS
MerCruiser 350 MPIC/Bravo I 300hp
"Crooked Wake"


Prior Boat
1999 Bayliner 1950 CL

Trust me, I had to step back, have a beer and summon the courage to drill into the hull!! I was very surprised that the fiberglass was only about 1/4 inch thick in that spot. I thought it would have been thicker since it was that close to the transom, so I was shocked when the bit went through that fast......

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Tanker Toad
NKAWTG..N!!
2008 H220 SS
2008 Chevy Silverado 4x4
2010 Tahoe LT 4x4