www.iFourWinns.com

So...Here I am...in the sunny Okanagan Valley anticipating every moment until the boat hits the water next week in it's new home at a new marina slip. Today I threw on the muffs ands turned the key for the first time since winterizing. Followed all steps....so hit the key and after 6 cranks all 8 cylinders were purring. After about 30 seconds...the engine began to knock and ping very loudly and it then stalled out. I repeated this scenario 3 times before I stopped. It was "professionally" winterized at the Four Winns Dealer in October last year. They said that all I have to do is drop it in the water and turn the key....yeah right. So...please help....any suggestions? All lubricants and filters were replaced at the winterizing service. Bad fuel perhaps???

5.0L TKS (Carb)
Closed Cooling

Thank you...

_________________
RICK|2009 H200 5.0L MERC|2010 RAM 1500 LARAMIE
Beautiful Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Sounds like bad fuel to me, anyone else want to chime in?

_________________
Ardy
Adelaide South Australia
Red H180 3.0 Merc

First thing I'd do is check the oil level. I don't care what the shop was supposed to have done, after they work on it and before I turn the key, I check the oil. Human error and all that.

If that's OK, then I agree with Ardy, bad gas or water in the gas.

_________________


Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Fuel water separtor changed? If so, you may have air in line.

_________________
-Tony
2016 Robalo R200 w/Yahama 200!

Previous boats:
2003 Four Winns 248 Vista - sold
1994 Sunbird Corsair 200 - sold
1980 Checkmate Predictor - sold

When you say "knock" and "ping" are you refering to back-firing???

As above, check ALL fluids.
If air in the line and you have an elec fuel pump, turn the key to run (without engaging the starter) for about 5-6 sec, then off 3-4 times to ensure the fuel sys is primed. Have you tried giving it a little throttle to keep it running? If it resolves itself after a few minutes and is still "responsive" to abrupt throttle changes, than was just air in the line. My last boat was carb'd w/ elec fuel pump. I had to do that after every fuel filter change. That's why I did it after the first outing, to ensure everything else was running OK, and reducing the number of variables to deal with if it wasn't.

If not that, I may have to agree with bad gas, or water in the gas. Are you using any fuel additives to control condensation?
Based on the idea of condensation in the fuel, I would recommend 1) getting it to "keep running"; 2) adding something to absorb (HEET, or whatever product these guys chime in with) any water in the gas and running it through while running on the muffs; 3) getting it to run on the muffs long enough without trouble so you are confident to get it wet, and burn up the last of the gas.
Did you put the boat away "empty" or with a full tank?... in between? From my aviation experience, we put away planes fully fueled to reduce air volume and resultant possibility of humidity condensation in the gas tank.

_________________
Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

Thanks guys...as always appreciated. I will throw a batch of fresh gas in there and try the recommendations.

_________________
RICK|2009 H200 5.0L MERC|2010 RAM 1500 LARAMIE
Beautiful Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Well, disconnected the electric fuel pump hooked up a hose and supplied it 12 volts to drain the old gas from the tank, put in a new batch of gas and we are smoothly purring on all cylinders again...

Cheers

_________________
RICK|2009 H200 5.0L MERC|2010 RAM 1500 LARAMIE
Beautiful Okanagan Valley, British Columbia