www.iFourWinns.com

Flyer51,
I would listen to what these people are saying. My sink drains in the shower sump and then overboard. I hate it. If you use your galley for cooking, you will need to clean the shower sump frequently. If the sink has any volume of water in it, the shower sump cannot keep up with the sink drain, so it leaks into the bilge. I had the unit where the cover screwed in, it leaked. I replaced it with the one where the cover snaps on, it leaks.
My advice is drilling the hole, I am going to. Dan

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Current Boat: 1994 278 Four Winns Vista

It boggles my mind, why Four Winns has the overboard drain on some models, and not on others. Our 268 drained overboard. And I'm not buying the kool-aid that says "If you lose your wedding ring down the galley sink, it will be caught in the sump, potentially saving you many dollars "

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One of 4 Previous (Sold) Boats:
2000 Four Winns 268 Vista

Current Boat: 2004 Chaparral 235 ssi cuddy

This forum rocks! Thanks for the advice guys. Drilling the hole it is and I'm sending it overboard. I'm going to order the parts right now.

That whole grey water system has been a royal pain in the a** since I bought the boat. When the boat came from the factory everything went into the grey water including the shower. Talk about a tank filling up fast. I rerouted the output from the shower sump to share the line that was already going overboard from the bilge pump. That has worked fine. The existing sink drain did not go into the shower sump though as it drained by gravity into the grey water tank. Eliminating that tank and system altogether is going to make my life a lot simpler.

I do make it a practice to clean out my shower sump several times during the summer. I keep a small shop vac at the marina and I use it to suck out the crud that develops over time. While I'm there I also suck out the line coming from my AC so that any buildup of mold in that line is sucked out. Pretty easy task with the shop vac and just takes a few minutes to eliminate potential problems that might develop.

Thanks again,

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2008 Vista 278 Volvo Penta 8.1 Gi 375 hp
1999 Horizon 220 5.7 GSi

I'd be careful about sharing a line with a bilge pump. You run the risk of the water going back into the bilge. Or having the bilge back up into the shower. You could use a one-way valve to help prevent it but then you introduce other problems. Like the valve sticking (either open or closed) and leaving water in there during winterization and having it freeze. Or having the water left in the line get stinky and eventually permeate the hose lining. Just some advice to consider.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

I did that right after I bought the boat and yes I put a one-way valve in that line when I did it. I keep a pretty close eye on this system and I do store the boat on a lift so my risk is less than someone who is in the water all the time. Once I get this new hole cut I'll run all of those out that hole. Great advice.

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2008 Vista 278 Volvo Penta 8.1 Gi 375 hp
1999 Horizon 220 5.7 GSi

I'm currently in the process of completing this project.

I drilled one thru hull for the sump pump exit (3/4" I.D. hose) and added a second thru hull for the galley sink (1" I.D. hose). The first hole I drilled about 3" aft of the existing one for the forward bilge. The second (for the galley sink) is behind the refrigerator.

Only problem I have so far is finding the 1" I.D. hose for the galley sink. It has been suggested that a loop be put in the drain hose (to create a water trap - I assume to help prevent any harmful gases from coming inside through the drain). I did find a fairly rigid hose at Home Depot but it is not flexible enough to maneuver in the small space between the drain, behind the refrigerator and the actual thru hull fitting. I may have found a multiflex bilge hose at West Marine (heading there tomorrow) so hopefully can complete that final piece.

Bypassing the grey water tank is a big improvement. Simply flushing the fresh water tanks has been a real nuisance the past couple of springs. It makes for a lot less trips to the pumpout station to say the least

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Kevin
'06 V278
8.1 L Volvo
"Heart's Content II"

Gasses from where? Since you're going straight overboard there's no need for the classic sink trap like you have at home. At home the point of the trap is to block sewer gasses from coming back up. Not a problem on the boat. Or are you talking about exhaust fumes? I couldn't see much in the way of fumes being able to waft their way back up through that hose. I mean, not unless the exit hose was aft of the exhaust and a pressure imbalance existed when plowing along at speed. But when sitting at anchor? Seems unlikely, at least not compared to the amount coming in through open hatches and the companionway door.

The bigger problem would be the chance of the side drain being low enough to allow water to get back into the boat if it were heeled hard over. But even that's unlikely.

Still, if there's room to loop or dip the line it couldn't hurt.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

It was just a suggestion I had read on an earlier thread here and I believe it was more a concern about exhaust from another boat if moored in tight quarters. I do agree that would seem unlikely but thought it would be a good additional safety latch if it could be added.

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Kevin
'06 V278
8.1 L Volvo
"Heart's Content II"

I can confirm that there is no loop (trap) on our galley sink it is not needed. Do not use straight poly tube on this as it will kink. Get tubing with reinforcement in it. You can get it at any industrial hose supply place in your are. at about $1/ft

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2001 328 Vista "Nauta Dream 2"
AB Inflatable 10AL "Little Dreamer"
2000 248 Vista
1997 225 Sundowner


Mike

I believe others have reported the factory install had a loop in the drain hose. Not surprising based on the different configurations reported in this thread alone.
I like your $1/foot estimate a lot better than the $2.79/foot I just paid at WM though

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Kevin
'06 V278
8.1 L Volvo
"Heart's Content II"

When you buy at WM it's because you want it then and there. When you have the time to mail order it, do that. I don't begrudge WM for charging what they do. If someone else locally carries the same stuff, but is a further drive, then I'll bust their chops and ask for a price match. Otherwise I know I'm paying for convenience.

As far as loops in drains goes, consider the extra length from the factory might also be a result of making it easier to assemble. A bit of extra hose makes fitting things together a bit easier. It could be an attempt at making a trap, either way it won't hurt to have it there. Any good winterizing effort would pour some antifreeze down the sink anyway. It'd either run out (wasting that small bit) or leave enough to ward off freezing.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

I have the trifecta....Head sink, galley sink, shower sump all drain overboard!

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-Tony
2016 Robalo R200 w/Yahama 200!

Previous boats:
2003 Four Winns 248 Vista - sold
1994 Sunbird Corsair 200 - sold
1980 Checkmate Predictor - sold

How it should be!

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

Extreme newb here. I just bought new to me 2002 248 Vista, turned on faucets today to flush the fresh water system and noticed nothing going overboard. What I did notice is the bilge filling up! I can't seem to reference anything about the sink drainage in any of the manuals. Should the water be draining into the bilge?

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2002 Vista 248
"Sunny Dayz"

First welcome to the forum. Great info here.

Make sure all of your hoses are connected and open your shower bilge (to make sure it is working). I'd pull the. cabinet in the head to see where the sink drain hose goes. Also, count the drain fittings on the hull. That is a pretty good indication if your sinks drain to a holding tank or overboard.

PM me if you want. I can help you out.

Also need to post pictures of your boat (part of the family rule).

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-Tony
2016 Robalo R200 w/Yahama 200!

Previous boats:
2003 Four Winns 248 Vista - sold
1994 Sunbird Corsair 200 - sold
1980 Checkmate Predictor - sold