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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 2:51 pm 
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Shark
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Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:32 pm
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Location: Merrimack River, Newburyport, MA
does anyone know the size tubing and connectors that are used in the drains for the swim platform compartments on a 348 vista?

I want to buy the same size and Tee in a drain for the transom locker and electrical locker. but not at boat to measure.

Thanks in advance

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2006 348 Vista
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 6:41 pm 
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I don't know the drain size but I solved the problem a differently. I drilled a hole through the bottom of the transom locker. Underneath the locker there is a large lip that catches the water that leaks around the engine hatch. If you place the hole right, the transom locker will drain into that lip and out onto the swim platform.

I drilled a one inch hole with a hole saw. The floor of the locker is about 1 inch thick plywood. I coated the hole with epoxy to protect the core. I didn't do the electrical locker as it drains better on it's own.

My next task is drainage for the locker under the rear seat. I like to keep the back canvas down and any unexpected rain ends up in that locker. Luckily I only store PFDs there.

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2008 V358 Two-tone Blue V/P Dual Prop 320 HP
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 10:01 am 
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Shark
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Location: Merrimack River, Newburyport, MA
you are right about transom locker, I will duplicate.

As for electrical locker we have water buildup. We also had a bad experience where the hose connection leaked badly (plastic quick disconnect broke) and it satrted to flood the bilge, lucky the bilge pump kept up. Want that drain for another safety measure.

As for rear seat I sometimes had happen as well. Just drilled holes and let drain into bilge, careful so not on particular mech/elect parts.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 7:31 pm 
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I thought about drilling a hole in that locker as well but didn't like the idea of draining free into the bilge. But maybe a hole between the engines would work, water would pretty much fall on the bilge pump.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 10:01 pm 
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wkearney99

Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 3:50 pm
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Location: Boat in Annapolis, live in Bethesda, MD
Never leave the boat with a shore water hose turned on, or perhaps even connected.

I've put not one, but two in-line shut-off valves in my shore water line. I picked up a 45 degree shut-off valve and use this in the shore water connection. I can then shut off the water at the hose bib inside the locker. I then have a regular straight one at the connection on the dock. Why? The one at the boat end lets me turn off the water when I leave without having to go onto the dock. The one at the dock is there to keep someone else from turning the water back on accidentally (like not knowing which faucet is theirs). The combo of the two pretty much makes sure I won't have the water left turned on when it's not needed.

I recall another forum member also sells a water minder sort of gizmo. One that only lets a certain number of gallons flow before cutting off. Can't recall the name of it, or the member. But it's certainly one more idea worth considering.

I've used some quick disconnect fittings in recent years, but the salt water environment is really hard on them. I may try it again using plastic ones this year.

I also want to add a better drain setup to my transom and electrical lockers. I believe all the new models use a drain straight out the back onto the swim platform. I seem to recall them using the same sort of cover used on the anchor locker at the bow. I just haven't gotten around to it.

I did put a drain into the locker under the transom seat in the cockpit. The hard part was discovering the decking under that locker is THICK, like nearly two inches! I had to use a hose nipple from the drain fitting down through the decking and then connect an elbow fitting for a hose. I tee'd the hose into the same through-hull that's used for the mold farms in the swim platform (those two shallow boxes, what a waste of fiberglass). Even the tiniest bit of debris tends to clog their drains and then the mold gets out of hand.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 6:34 am 
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Mold farms! I still don't have a use for those lockers. Right now I have a couple frisbees in there.

My boat has the drains straight out the back on to the platform. They are covered with little stainless clamshells. They keep the water from building up in there but they don't get the last 1/2 inch. That's why I added the drain.

Thanks, for the info on the thickness. That means I need a pretty big hole saw.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 7:33 am 
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wkearney99

Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 3:50 pm
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Location: Boat in Annapolis, live in Bethesda, MD
jrcinnh wrote:
Mold farms! I still don't have a use for those lockers. Right now I have a couple frisbees in there.

My boat has the drains straight out the back on to the platform. They are covered with little stainless clamshells. They keep the water from building up in there but they don't get the last 1/2 inch. That's why I added the drain.

Thanks, for the info on the thickness. That means I need a pretty big hole saw.


Mmmmm, moldy, slimy frisbees... heh.

My delay on doing the drains was wondering how I was going to drill the holes low enough to get that last bit of water. I have a dremel flexible shaft kit and was thinking that might give me enough to get the drain hole as close to the bottom of the locker as possible. If just to make a pilot hole.

As for going down through the deck, I'm not sure the decking below the electrical locker is of the same thickness. The transom seating is part of the engine compartment lid. That's the thick part. The electric locker is, I think, just a regular fiberglass box, and it's not mounted above the engine compartment lid.

Regardless of the position, you wouldn't need any bigger a hole saw that usual. What you would need is an extension for it. Since most hole saws use a 1/4" hex shaft you ought to be able to use any regular 1/4" extension, like the magnetic kind for putting in drywall screws. That's what I had to use in order to get the regular Milwaukee brand hole saw down in through the lid.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 8:24 am 
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Shark
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Location: Merrimack River, Newburyport, MA
We try not to ever leave the water con when we leave, but mistakes can happen. The one time we left it on a big swell from police boat under full steam rocked the boat and broke the quick disconnect. Scary. It is why I am definitely installing an overboard drain in that locker.

I take it nobody know the size tubing? I will find out this weekend.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 8:35 am 
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wkearney99

Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 3:50 pm
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Location: Boat in Annapolis, live in Bethesda, MD
Honestly I've forgotten the size of tubing used there. If I had to guess I'd say it was 5/8".

I loop the hose over the nearby cleat. This avoids and sudden jerking from pulling on the connection into the locker. That and it keeps the hose up off the swim platform. I lay the shore power line up there first and then put the hose on top of that. This lets both of them stay off the platform.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 1:54 pm 
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I checked the factory drain holes and they feel like they are flush or maybe a little below the floor of the compartment. But that is a big floor in there and not as flat and level as it looks. Plus I think the holes are too small. So again the big hole in the bottom does the trick.

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