www.iFourWinns.com

So...I managed to fix my contactor's broken connections by taking it apart an wiring the coils directly - that led me to the next issue (I thought I had solved it by fixing the relay, boy was I wrong). Seems the motor on my windlass is shot, there was so much rust inside the motor that one of the bolts that holds the whole thing together snapped under very little force and the other one looks like it's been at the ocean bottom for a while. Once apart, the metal bits on the armature have large gouges in two spots and before taking it apart the motor would not turn by hand.
So that brings me to my question, making the assumption that it's not a good spend of money to attempt to replace the motor (if even possible), I'm thinking of just replacing the entire windlass. Has anyone replaced theirs on a 328? What did you use and did it fit without needing to put a plate over the existing hole in the bow? Once complete, I intend to have ~40' of chain, 250' rope and a 35lb anchor.
I went into a local marine store and was told the Lewmar V700 was not enough for this boat, that I should look at a Lewmar V1. One thing I notice about the V1 is the 90A breaker which I'm sure would mean I need to completely upgrade my wiring in the boat, even past the battery selector switch, back to the battery. I think (will need to verify) that I have 6 or 4awg wire currently.

Any help here would be appreciated.

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1969 Chris Craft Commander 47
1999 Four Winns 328 Vista - SOLD

what windlass do you have on the boat now?

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Walter

2003 248 Vista - VP 5.0 GXi
2009 Toyota Tundra SR5 5.7L 4x4

All it says is Lewmar - but from what I've read it's likely a Concept 0 (the boat is a 1999).

One of the replacements I've started to look at is a Maxwell RC8-6. Still need to do more research.

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1969 Chris Craft Commander 47
1999 Four Winns 328 Vista - SOLD

Windlasses cost a fortune, I would seriously look at fixing your current motor. Replacing bolts is cheap and there are motor shops that can fix the armature. I would take the motor out and get an estimate. You are looking at $1000 for a new windlass. I bet you can rebuild the motor for less than $200.

My boat came with a Maxwell Freedom 800, which was an extra cost upgrade from the Freedom 500. Maxwell dropped the Freedom line, it was a non-chrome bargian line. It looks like their RC8-6 has similar performance.

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2008 V358 Two-tone Blue V/P Dual Prop 320 HP
Lake Winnipesaukee, NH

While I would love to spend $200 and be sure all would be well, I have a relay that is less than ideal and a motor that has broken bolts and looks like it somehow got water into it at some point. As much as I don`t want to spend $1000, I would rather spend it and know I`m covered instead of fixing a 12 year old windlass.

My main concern is the hole in the deck and I`d like to know if there is an easy replacement that fits the hole from the Concept 0. If there isn`t, what do people do to mount a new one - do you fill the hole with epoxy and then drill a new one

Steve.

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1969 Chris Craft Commander 47
1999 Four Winns 328 Vista - SOLD

A V700 is under $700.00. http://www.defender.com/cart.jsp?cc=y Better than $1000.00, but $200 ia a lot better I must say. Now Lewmar is stating that the V700 is for a boat "up to 35' ". Would a bigger one be better, YES. BUT, are the specs of your old one in-line with the V700?? AS you stated, a bigger one could mean, the cables may need to be replaced.

Only you can see it and guess if fixing is too risky. A new one will definitely be nice to have.

I would try and get the closest one in size, put it in then patch up the fiberglass. Now if that doesn't work for structural reasons, you can always remove the old one, patch the hole to match the construction, probably marine plywood coated with fiber glass. Then cut a new hole for the new windlass.

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2008 V358 Two-tone Blue V/P Dual Prop 320 HP
Lake Winnipesaukee, NH

I think I may have to go this route - I can`t find the specs on the old windlass, they aren`t in the manual. I was told that the V700 would not be powerful enough, but I`m starting to wonder why. It has a max pull of 700, which should equate to a 175lb working load. I will have a 35lb anchor, 50`of chain and 200`of rope, so total load of 80lbs or so. I would think the V700 should be adequate. Also, I don`t want to run any new cable as it would be very difficult I imagine. Currently the cable is either 6 or 8 gauge, which only works with smaller motors such as the V700.

What has experience with the V700 beenÉ I`ll have to search that as well.

Steve.

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1969 Chris Craft Commander 47
1999 Four Winns 328 Vista - SOLD

I installed it myself, last spring. So far, it has given me no trouble at all. What you need to remember too, it is not just the wight of the rode. It's is ALSO the pull needed to free the anchor from the botton.

As far as I`ve read, pulling from the bottom is done by the boat, doing this with the windlass can overload it. The windlass is only for up and down.

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1969 Chris Craft Commander 47
1999 Four Winns 328 Vista - SOLD

Correct, within reason you can use the windlass to get an anchor loose, but generally that only works from a very loose bottom. Which might indicate it wasn't a good bite anyway.

For just sand or loose rocks the windlass alone might do it. But around here the mud on the Bay is sticky and heavy. To bring up the anchor we use the windlass to take the slack out of the rode. Then we move the boat forward a bit with the engines to break the anchor loose from the bottom mud. If the rode starts backing out of the windlass we use the cleat to secure it. Once it's broken loose from the bottom the windlass is used to lift it back to the anchor roller.

It's important to get the slack of the rode first so you don't risk running it over and hitting it with the props.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

This is what I do, if its wrong, what can I say. But, I have done this with my last boat for 3 years with out a problem. I have never popped a breaker. Key component in this is wiring, Lewmar makes this clear in there docs & it is best to use the next size up. The other advantage that I have, is that my boat is a 26 footer (small wiring run) and I use a Fortress FX-11 at 7lbs with 30' of chain. http://www.fortressanchors.com/fortress ... guide.html Also the V700 is 175lb working load & a max of 700lb

I pull forward over the anchor, never letting the windlass pull the boat. At the same time using the windless to take up the rode/line. I try to have the anchor under the boat, not in front of it or under the anchor roller. Than I use the windlass than to break free. It loads up for a second and comes right up. I mainly anchor in mud or mud & seaweed.

I don't think it's wrong either way. For us it's more predictable to use the engines to break it loose. I've done it with the windlass alone and most of the time it works. On a few occasions the breaker trips due to excessive load.

Either way works if your boat supports it. I prefer going a little easier on the windlass to save me the trouble of flipping the breaker or putting excessive load on the windlass. Besides the engines are already running and more than capable of doing the job.

Windlass wiring is definitely a sore spot across many boat brands. Some are setup with wire gauge that's really not heavy enough to support all of what the windlass can draw, so the breaker trips. And then there's the issue of fuses being put inline up under the windlass.

The important thing to watch out for when pulling an anchor loose is if it's gotten caught on something. Using just the windlass alone and having it trip would, I suppose, give you an indicator that the anchor is stuck. Using the engines would let you put more load on the rode, potentially leading to other problems. Like bending the anchor roller or snapping the rode. But either of those would take willfully ignoring the clear signs that the rode is way too tight and that the anchor isn't coming loose.

Oh, and the windlass alone is NOT the way to leave the rode attached. Once you've gotten the anchor to bite it's important to use the cleat to secure the rode. This way you won't have the load being put on the windlass. Potentially leading to more rode being pulled out than expected. The windlass is not intended to hold the full tension of boat at anchor.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista