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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 11:29 am 
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french 829
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Location: Hebron, KY
OK--First off--I am the first one to admit, I am not very mechanically inclined. While many winterize themselves. I choose to overpay someone else to do it.

That being said--I feel like I am being a bit taken advantage of. I had to take my boat to the dealer (something I avoid as much as possible). However, my ECM (computer) died Labor Day weekend and has to be replaced--so I needed the "expertise" of the dealer on this one.

Since I dropped it off Saturday--they have suggested everything and the kitchen sink to repair. Impeller which was just replaced. Gimbal Bellows. Etc. None of which I plan to do at this time by the way.

As long as it is there--I was going to have them winterize. I am 3+ hours away from where I keep the boat--so I really need to get this all done at once. The dealer claims that they winterize and leave various hoses and such disconnected and that I will need to bring it in in the spring to be de-winterized.

I know I am not mechanically inclined--but I have owned boats for 8 years and have never had to de-winterize it. It is in indoor garage storage all winter. I asked him to not detach the hoses and he told me they would not winterize it if they didn't do it their way.

So my question. I assume these hoses are easy enough to reconnect myself. Am I safe letting him proceed--knowing I hope to avoid bringing the boat back to him anytime soon? Sorry for the long post. Please share advice.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 12:23 pm 
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Yes, you can reconnect them.

I would buy the service manual on you're engine. Sealoc makes a good manual, about $25-$30. You can read up on what ever the dealer tells you & be better informed. Not that you would do the work you're self, but you would know what needs or not needs to be done and how to check it. If will give you a maintenance schedule and how long some parts will last.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 1:08 pm 
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is the garage heated above 32*f all winter long?

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 1:09 pm 
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268 Vista

Joined: Tue May 16, 2006 9:49 am
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Location: West Michigan
Paul I. wrote:
Yes, you can reconnect them.

I would buy the service manual on you're engine. Sealoc makes a good manual, about $25-$30.


Just so you don't try and find a service manual with Sealoc as the search word. Sealoc

Seloc Marine is the correct spelling. I had a friend in PA that was on the staff at Seloc several years ago, and did much of the tech writing for the company. They make good manuals.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 1:18 pm 
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Location: Winthrop, Ma.
Cap'n Morgan wrote:
Paul I. wrote:
Yes, you can reconnect them.

I would buy the service manual on you're engine. Sealoc makes a good manual, about $25-$30.


Just so you don't try and find a service manual with Sealoc as the search word. Sealoc

Seloc Marine is the correct spelling. I had a friend in PA that was on the staff at Seloc several years ago, and did much of the tech writing for the company. They make good manuals.


Thank You. I can't spell or write for !@#$. Thats way I am a tech by trade.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 1:58 pm 
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Location: Frisco, TX
I always paid someone to winterize my last boat. They never disconnected the hoses. The only thing I had to do in the Spring was put the plugs back in, and start up. My boat stayed on a lift on the lake all winter and it gets below 32 degrees.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 2:07 pm 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
I'm an overpayer too :) , mostly because I just don't have the room at home, or running water at storage, to do it myself. That, and I have better things to do.

There's no reason to leave hoses disconnected, other than to make you come back in the spring. With my previous shop, I had to go back in the spring because they winterized with ethylene glycol which you can't dump in a lake. But if that was your shop's reason, they wouldn't be disconnecting the hoses - so, they're just scamming you IMO. (The shop I use now just drains it and leaves it dry.)

You can certainly reconnect your own hoses, just make sure they go back on the same place they came off. Then, find a new shop. :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 3:38 pm 
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french 829
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Location: Hebron, KY
Thanks all. You are all confirming my thoughts. I think it is exactly to make me come back in the spring--which is ticking me off. :evil: Because I don't have time to pick the boat up Saturday (4 hours away) and then take it somewhere else to be winterized while I wait--I think I will be taking Mike's advice and let him do it (this once) and then get my buddy to help me reconnect in the spring.

How is that for customer service. This guy could have treated me right and probably would have had a loyal customer. Instead--he has pissed me off and I will probably do whatever I have to not to give him anymore business. Boat repairs are stressful enough--I don't need this kind of hassle.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 9:24 pm 
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Location: Jeffersonville, IN
Who is the dealer? I see you are in Caryville on Norris Lake. I know there is a dealer in Lexington just up 65.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 9:58 pm 
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I do it all myself, after adding Stabil, I run the engine up to temp, change the oil and filter, then run it again, shut off and check oil. Then run it and fog the engine. I change the water separating fuel filter. Next I drain everything manually. Finally I replace the drain plugs (I put a bit of OMC gasket sealer on them to prevent leaks and corrosion) and fill the engine and manifolds manually with PG -100 antifreeze. It stays liquid to much lower temps than the -50 or 60 and keeps air out to reduce corrosion. I drain the gear oil in the drive and check for water, if none then I refill it and remove it and store it in the garage, if there is water then I take it to the shop to be resealed. I also check the bellows, gimble bearing and ujoints. Parts cost for all this is about $180 and takes me 3-4 hrs.
In the spring, I start it up, burn off the fogging oil, and check the plugs. If they clean up OK I re-use em if not I replace. I check the point gap, timing and idle. Clean the carb linkages and lube up the shift linkage. Another 2-3 hrs. Not hard, simple stuff, and a shop will not do the job I do......

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 7:39 am 
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french 829
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The Lexington dealer would have been perfect. They closed about 2-3 years ago when the economy tanked. I took the boat the opposite direction on I-75 to Knoxville--just 45 minutes from my boat locker.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 12:23 pm 
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french829 wrote:
The Lexington dealer would have been perfect. They closed about 2-3 years ago when the economy tanked. I took the boat the opposite direction on I-75 to Knoxville--just 45 minutes from my boat locker.


Good thing you didn't have to bring it to Lodders Marine in Fairfield. That would have been a drive.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 6:15 pm 
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french 829
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That was exactly what I was trying to avoid. I tow with a Pathfinder--so try to avoid long trips as much as possible. I did the home and back trip once this year and blew a trailer tire--so I am a bit gun shy to make that trip again anytime soon.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 6:22 pm 
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By not hooking up hoses and replacing drain plugs, they are trying to force you to come back, which to me is questionable in one way, but I am not against the boat being checked out before the season begins. I re-install the drive run the engine up to temp on the water hose. I look at the spark plugs after the fogging oil burns off. If they can be cleaned up then I re-use them, if they are getting fouled then I replace em. I check the dwell and timing, and set the idle. I make sure the drive shifts correctly from neutral to fwd and rev, and back to neutral. Shift linkage and steering is lubed and checked. The prop shaft is greased and the prop replaced.

Boat maintenance ideally is a fall and spring thing. By doing it that way you avoid problems in the season. It is tough if you do not have a good local dealer. I am lucky in that I have a good independent shop for the things I can't do myself.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 8:30 am 
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french829 wrote:
That was exactly what I was trying to avoid. I tow with a Pathfinder--so try to avoid long trips as much as possible. I did the home and back trip once this year and blew a trailer tire--so I am a bit gun shy to make that trip again anytime soon.


Blew a tire 2 years in a row, one to Norris, one to Lake Norman. I wish I would have just replaced both of mine at the same time. Not a good feeling esp. when you one have a single axel trailer! But I'm in the same boat, I tow with my Tacoma and try and avoid the long trips as much as possible, but end up doing it once a year.

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