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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:08 am 
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Seahorse

Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:04 am
Posts: 20
Location: Sydney, Australia
Hi! I recently stumbled across this site after buying a 2nd hand H230 which I'm loving.

One issue though - which I see is common - is that with our dual battery model, there is a significant list to starboard.

Does anyone have any pics of where to locate the batteries on the port side?

cheers
Chris

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 10:00 am 
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I think a few members have done it, just keep in mind, if you move them there, that your cable runs will be much longer and you need to upsize the gauge of the cable, I'd use at least 1/0 as compared to the standard 2 gauge wiring. I think my OE ones were even smaller, probably 4 gauge. I have my 2nd batt on the port side and the total run of battery cables is 12 feet, 9 from the battery switch to the batt, and 3 from the batt back to the engine ground. When sizing cables you have to include both the pos. and the neg. cable runs. Otherwise you will get heating of the cable, and low voltage at the starter which will shorten its life.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 5:12 pm 
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230 Mike
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Joined: Mon May 15, 2006 7:59 pm
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
I had my dealer do it. I had him leave the port battery in it's original location, and move the other battery into a box in the port ski locker so that the locker could continue to be used without worrying about things hitting/damaging the battery. This will fix your list, as it changes the weight distribution by a good 120 pounds, in the rear of the boat where it matters most.

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Welcome to the forum. Tell us more about where you boat, how you boat, and above all, we love pictures.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 6:18 am 
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Seahorse

Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:04 am
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Location: Sydney, Australia
Thanks guys. That pic is just what I was after! Re the wiring, is there anyway of moving the switch across too? Or does this not save anything?

I'm actually in Australia (Sydney) and myself and a good mate have stumped up some $$ to enjoy the summer over here in style. We're getting used to putting the boat in and out of the water and also having a few glitches getting the trailer in good nick. It's certainly a cracking boat though.

Oh and the next mod I've been thinking of is to put my 4wd fridge (Waeco CF-40) into the hole where the esky lives. Again.. any thoughts appreciated! :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 4:38 pm 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
I wouldn't move the switch, it's got a fine built-in location that works well.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:54 pm 
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Starfish

Joined: Wed May 07, 2008 12:56 am
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
I have just moved BOTH my batteries from WAAAY back on the starboard side of my H220 where even a dwarf with a mirror could not check them to right at the front of the engine compartment. OK, it can't now be used for storage but there are heaps of other places to put stuff and I can readily check terminals are clean, fluid is full and attach the carger if necessary.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:22 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 8:03 am
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Location: Winthrop, Ma.
LouC wrote:
I think a few members have done it, just keep in mind, if you move them there, that your cable runs will be much longer and you need to upsize the gauge of the cable, I'd use at least 1/0 as compared to the standard 2 gauge wiring. I think my OE ones were even smaller, probably 4 gauge. I have my 2nd batt on the port side and the total run of battery cables is 12 feet, 9 from the battery switch to the batt, and 3 from the batt back to the engine ground. When sizing cables you have to include both the pos. and the neg. cable runs. Otherwise you will get heating of the cable, and low voltage at the starter which will shorten its life.


I think there too light to begin with, never mind moving the batterys. Just memember, use tinned wire.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 7:56 am 
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Seahorse

Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:04 am
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Location: Sydney, Australia
We'll my boat buddy and I have spent the last 2 evenings up at the boat (its on a trailer at the moment) sorting out bits and bobs. The batteries are now out and it looks like there is space to fit both in the rear - one parallel to the line of the boat similar to where they were on the starboard side, and one perpendicular to that up against the wooden separator board between port ski seat locker and engine bay.

Also, is the wiring fairly simple to follow through if I take a look at what's there? I understand basic electrics and realise I need to use a bigger guage than standard (as you mention LouC). Just wondering where to get tinned wire from though.. :| Any ideas greatly appreciated..

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 11:29 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
I got my tinned marine wire (Ancor) at a local boat shop, I measured the runs and the guy there cut them to size and crimped the terminal ends on for me. The wiring is easy, on the switch, there are two hots, one for each batt positive, and one common that goes to the starter solenoid. Make sure the engine grounds that connect to each battery negative are clean and on tight. The tinned larger gauge cables will cost some money but do it right the first time and you will not have problems down the road, esp in salt water.
I put this system in 7 years ago, and this boat which is 24 years old always starts. A reliable electrical system in a boat starts with the battery/starter wiring. The OE wiring on some new boats is really poor. Small diameter cables and wingnuts to secure the positive and negative cables to the batts. NOT GOOD. I used automotive style but tinned cable clamps bolted on the marine terminal ends. Much better for keeping them tight and secure.

OK now that we got that out of the way, define some Aussie terms for us....

good nick=good shape?
esky?
stumped up=saved up?
cracking=cool?

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2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 12:20 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 12:31 pm
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Location: Chester, UK
Lou,

"Stumped up" means paid for (at least it does in the UK!) and "esky" might mean the cooler ( reference to Eskimo!). Cooler as in what to keep things cool in, rather than the cell in the POW camp that Steve McQueen used to frequent.

Graham


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 5:04 pm 
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Seahorse

Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:04 am
Posts: 20
Location: Sydney, Australia
Quote:
OK now that we got that out of the way, define some Aussie terms for us....

good nick=good shape?
esky?
stumped up=saved up?
cracking=cool?


Haa.. only just realised it was me using these terms in the original post :D

So yeah.. you're pretty much on the money (correct). Stumped up is saved up and paying out your hard earned $$, cracking is superb and yup esky is a cool box. Although I prefer the description above. "HILTZ. COOLER. 1 MONTH!!"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LGIgMpNuPoE

There's plenty more aussie lingo to feast into here if anyone's interested.. My favourite is a Figjam..
http://www.koalanet.com.au/australian-slang.html

Right time to go and sort these batteries and wires out .. in the rain :|

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 5:16 pm 
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Location: Chester, UK
I didn't know it rained in Australia in the Summer; At least it's warm rain, I suppose ! October and November here in the UK have been warmer than the middle of Summer was.

Graham


Last edited by Graham R on Sat Nov 26, 2011 9:42 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 7:02 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 8:03 am
Posts: 2238
Location: Winthrop, Ma.
mijango wrote:
We'll my boat buddy and I have spent the last 2 evenings up at the boat (its on a trailer at the moment) sorting out bits and bobs. The batteries are now out and it looks like there is space to fit both in the rear - one parallel to the line of the boat similar to where they were on the starboard side, and one perpendicular to that up against the wooden separator board between port ski seat locker and engine bay.

Also, is the wiring fairly simple to follow through if I take a look at what's there? I understand basic electrics and realise I need to use a bigger guage than standard (as you mention LouC). Just wondering where to get tinned wire from though.. :| Any ideas greatly appreciated..


Here is a good site for wire, great prices. http://tinnedmarinewire.com/wire/

They can make up the ends for you. Crimping the ends can come loose over time. I would solder them, it would make for a better connection & it would nerver come loose. It takes longer, but not hard to do. Then use heat shrink tubing over the connection.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 10:23 pm 
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life to the full

Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 7:13 pm
Posts: 699
Location: Adelaide South Australia
mijango wrote:
Quote:
OK now that we got that out of the way, define some Aussie terms for us....

good nick=good shape?
esky?
stumped up=saved up?
cracking=cool?


Haa.. only just realised it was me using these terms in the original post :D

So yeah.. you're pretty much on the money (correct). Stumped up is saved up and paying out your hard earned $$, cracking is superb and yup esky is a cool box. Although I prefer the description above. "HILTZ. COOLER. 1 MONTH!!"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LGIgMpNuPoE

There's plenty more aussie lingo to feast into here if anyone's interested.. My favourite is a Figjam..
http://www.koalanet.com.au/australian-slang.html

Right time to go and sort these batteries and wires out .. in the rain :|

I understood you perfectly no probs down here

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 6:04 am 
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Seahorse

Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:04 am
Posts: 20
Location: Sydney, Australia
Pleased to know I'm making sense out there :lol:

So.. batteries are now firmly over the port side (I actually got both in the stern section as opposed to having one in the ski locker) and secure. I got some wires made up and have re routed them around the back of the engine bay, and all wired up (plus the numerous ancillaries). Test time shows the engine starts, and all the ancillaries work :D ... almost..

Although one small problem: one of the engine hatch motors isn't working. Some testing with the voltmeter (multimeter) revealed that it's the 2 left hand little black boxes in the Hatch Relay (I know both motors work as I swapped the blue and green wires in the back of the relay box to the 2 right hand black boxes, and hey presto the problem swaps around)

[img]file:///C:/Users/Dell/Dropbox/Photos/Photo%2030-11-11%207%2043%2034%20PM.jpg[/img]

Hmm... anyone any ideas what to do? It does seem odd that both the relay for "up" and "down" have both failed, but I can't work out what else it could be.. :?

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