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 Post subject: Re: Walt's Mod's
PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 5:41 pm 
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Villiage Idiot

Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 8:28 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Kansas City
230 Mike wrote:
You know Walt, I didn't think of this before... but instead of plugging your old speedo tube, you should've just re-routed it to drain over the top of your drive. Custom drive shower. LOL :mrgreen:


Oh trust me... I thought long and hard about doing that at the time!

_________________
Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.


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 Post subject: Re: Walt's Mod's
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2011 8:14 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 13, 2009 7:02 am
Posts: 665
Location: Tampa, Florida
Walt -do the cupholders sit a bit higher with the LED ring sitting under the stainless trim? There is a slight elevated lip with the plastic upholders, but the LED look a lot higher.

Can they take some beating by kids tossing their drinks?

I really like the look and have the LED's for under the helm and could combine he wiring project.

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4
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 Post subject: Re: Walt's Mod's
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2011 11:24 am 
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Villiage Idiot

Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 8:28 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Kansas City
PDACPA wrote:
Walt -do the cupholders sit a bit higher with the LED ring sitting under the stainless trim? There is a slight elevated lip with the plastic upholders, but the LED look a lot higher.

Can they take some beating by kids tossing their drinks?

I really like the look and have the LED's for under the helm and could combine he wiring project.


EDIT: They are NOT SS cup-holders, but plastic.

They sit a bit higher... I think 1/4"... but not so much as to be a burden. As far as kids, I cannot tell ya. Mine have been in place for 3 plus seasons of typical use, with no cracks, or any signs of problems. My bow cup-holders are in a place that is susceptible to knees and feet... keep that in mind! I removed my bow cushion, and got some carpet w/ the rubber backing. Had a trim shop do the details, and add snaps. This way the bow cushion can stay home, and still able to step/sit there, and less likely to step on one of the cup-holders.

_________________
Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.


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 Post subject: Re: Walt's Mod's
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2011 1:26 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 13, 2009 7:02 am
Posts: 665
Location: Tampa, Florida
Thanks Walt.

These say they have a stainless top. I thought these were the ones you had.

http://www.nautiqueparts.com/ledcupholders.aspx

Good to hear they hold up well. My bow ones are by the windshield so none are near where any one steps.

_________________
2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4
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 Post subject: Re: Walt's Mod's
PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 2:02 pm 
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Villiage Idiot

Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 8:28 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Kansas City
I have finally recieved and installed my K&N Flame Arrestor. It fits like a glove, and should be out tommorrow to "test" it!

The factory Flame Arrestor comes with three mounting bolts that are part of the mount for the throttle body. I removed these, and viola! They just have stand-off's which needed to be removed with some wrenches and a pair of pliers, so no new bolts are neccesary. I saved the stand-off's, old flame arrestor, and engine cover. The new one mounts well and sturdy with the enclosed hose clamp. Make sure you order the coorect one, as 59-5030 was the ONLY one with the proper throat dimensions.

Image

It had to install parallel to the engine block, as not to interfere with the throttle cable. For the Crank-case ventilation, I just used the existing hose, and attached to the filter wire mesh with a paperclip.

Image

Image

Image

I would have to say the new assembly has about 3-4 times the surface area as the old. Hopefully that will result in less air-flow restriction, and maybe just a bit more "giddy-up"

_________________
Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.


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 Post subject: Re: Walt's Mod's
PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 12:19 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 08, 2009 10:17 am
Posts: 202
Location: Monticello, AR
Interesting... I wonder if that would fit my motor (08' 5.0 VP)? Have you noticed any improvement in performance?

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2008 FW F204 - 5.0 VP "Stand On It"
Former Boat: Larson 186 LXI - 4.3 VP
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 Post subject: Re: Walt's Mod's
PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 4:13 pm 
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Villiage Idiot

Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 8:28 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Kansas City
Kvou812 wrote:
Interesting... I wonder if that would fit my motor (08' 5.0 VP)? Have you noticed any improvement in performance?


Still on last year's gas, so can't be sure. Should know more next weekend after a fill-up. Also changing the cap and rotor due to other issues.

For the Volvo, go to K&N's Website. They list the p/n you need.

_________________
Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.


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 Post subject: Re: Walt's Mod's
PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 8:00 am 
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Lake Michigan - Unsalted

Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 11:38 pm
Posts: 867
Location: Comstock Park / Grand Haven (Barretts)
If got the K&N for the 7.4L if anyone wants it. New in box. It didn't fit my boat. Make me an offer. Happy to get the part number if you are interested.

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2001 Horizon 260 - 7.4 Volvo GSI DP

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 Post subject: Re: Walt's Mod's
PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 5:21 pm 
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Villiage Idiot

Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 8:28 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Kansas City
Kvou812 wrote:
Interesting... Have you noticed any improvement in performance?


Finally got the numbers in.... picked up about 200 rpm WOT. That should correspond to about 2 mph, based on my handy prop slip calc. Before, I could hit 5200 RPM with the GF and I only, plus 1/2 gas. Last weekend did 5200 RPM w/ full gas, and 4 pers total.

_________________
Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.


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 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Walt's Mod's
PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 5:05 pm 
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Villiage Idiot

Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 8:28 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Kansas City
12V outlet.

We discussed this on another thread. I didn't wish to hijack that one, so here it is.
First season I installed a 3-way 12V outlet under the helm to supplement the one from factory. This seemed a central location for the GPS, cell phone chargers, ipod, spot light and 12V blender. I also added a 400W inverter, which is plenty of power to run the ice cream maker :shock: (yes, you can all drool now!)

Image

This season, I bought a bigger tube, and needed room to inflate/deflate. Swim-pad works great for this, but my location for 12V just wasn't working due to cords being in the way. I decided to add a pair of 12V outlets to the area. Why two??? I don't know... one would have been sufficient. Now I have 6 12V outlets powered through one 20A fuse.

2x 12V outlets purchased through Radio-shaq for about $8 ea. I like these in particular as they have an in-line 10A fuse, and a cover for the outlet. I ran about 20' of wire to get power at the fuse panel, and even spliced into the same circuit as the previously wired 3-way.
The floor panel infront of the bench seats on the 210 is one-piece, and easily removed with 6 screws. Taking this out made drilling the holes easier, and I could drill the hole for the wiring through my #2 batt/sub-woofer location, directly through the stbd side electrical, and to the helm.

I drilled the two holes with a step-bit, and notched them for the outlets with a hack-saw blade.

Image

To keep them in-place securely, I put a piece of rubber around the outlet, then ran a hose-clamp around the rubber. Finally, I wrapped that with vinyl tape. Use some wire protector, and plently of zip ties!

Image

Finally, put the panel back in place and you are done!

Image


Image

_________________
Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.


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 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Walt's Mod's
PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 12:52 pm 
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Starfish

Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 50
Location: Maryland
Nicely Done

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99 Horizon 190 - Volvo 5.7
06 Sea Doo RXP (79 GPS) / 05 Sea Doo GTX Limited (74 GPS)


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 Post subject: Re: Walt's Mod's
PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 1:13 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2011 2:33 am
Posts: 1026
Nice Mods!!!! Can't wait till I get my 220SS this weekend hopefully. The LEDs on the drink holders are really nice and will be the first to go into mine. Love the K'N setup, nice improvement in airflow which definitely means more HP. Led's in the engine bay look nice any pictures with them on? I like the dimmer for the lights but I'm new to boating so I think I will stay out as long as the suns out. My wife loves the radio remote control on the front of the boat. 8) Joe from Miami


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 Post subject: Re: Walt's Mod's
PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 8:54 pm 
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Villiage Idiot

Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 8:28 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Kansas City
Yeah... Season 5 is well under way! So far this season "Debt Charged" has become paid-off! Not many other mods to speak of.

I did have a wardrobe malfunction Memorial Day weekend on the muddy mo. while cooking along about 55 mph, a gust of wind caught my bimini (yes, it was up, shame on me!) and broke the plastic clips used for tensioning the straps on the forward section of the bimini. I replaced them for about $5 ea, but saw the potential for a repeat in the near future. Swung by Cabela's on the way home from work today and bought a set of bimini support poles, and a quick disconnect (similar to what most of you use to support a "stowed" bimini). They look so much more sturdy than the straps.

Image

Image

Image

I do plan on replacing the plastic peices with SS, or alum some time but it was a little pricy. The poles/kit was $55; the Quick Disconnect deck hardware was $13 ea. ($90 w/ tax). It only took about an hour start to finish using a screw driver, drill, hammer and center punch

_________________
Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Walt's Mod's
PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 9:34 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2011 2:33 am
Posts: 1026
Nice job, Nice pics!
Finally got my boat and I love it! Thanks for the great ideas
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 Post subject: Re: Walt's Mod's
PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 11:10 pm 
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Tadpole

Joined: Wed Jun 06, 2012 11:35 pm
Posts: 2
Walt wrote:
12V outlet.

We discussed this on another thread. I didn't wish to hijack that one, so here it is.
First season I installed a 3-way 12V outlet under the helm to supplement the one from factory. This seemed a central location for the GPS, cell phone chargers, ipod, spot light and 12V blender. I also added a 400W inverter, which is plenty of power to run the ice cream maker :shock: (yes, you can all drool now!)

Image

This season, I bought a bigger tube, and needed room to inflate/deflate. Swim-pad works great for this, but my location for 12V just wasn't working due to cords being in the way. I decided to add a pair of 12V outlets to the area. Why two??? I don't know... one would have been sufficient. Now I have 6 12V outlets powered through one 20A fuse.

2x 12V outlets purchased through Radio-shaq for about $8 ea. I like these in particular as they have an in-line 10A fuse, and a cover for the outlet. I ran about 20' of wire to get power at the fuse panel, and even spliced into the same circuit as the previously wired 3-way.
The floor panel infront of the bench seats on the 210 is one-piece, and easily removed with 6 screws. Taking this out made drilling the holes easier, and I could drill the hole for the wiring through my #2 batt/sub-woofer location, directly through the stbd side electrical, and to the helm.

I drilled the two holes with a step-bit, and notched them for the outlets with a hack-saw blade.

Image

To keep them in-place securely, I put a piece of rubber around the outlet, then ran a hose-clamp around the rubber. Finally, I wrapped that with vinyl tape. Use some wire protector, and plently of zip ties!

Image

Finally, put the panel back in place and you are done!

Image


Image



Where did you get that 3 way outlet?


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